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Finally have to pull the trans.


9723

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Are you absolutely sure you're turning it in the right (lefty-loosey) direction?
That's funny, but I can't blame you for asking, considering it all. I'm so careful about that sort of thing, I mean.....I have a permanent peanut butter jar in my head.

I got the MFFFFFFr loose. It never popped or gave loose, it just eventually untightened. I did switch to my ratchet gear-head...thinking it would be easier than the distance needed to change the position of the 12-point. It wasn't, even with changing the blocks, I was mostly getting only one to two clicks at at time, due to the slop in the ratchet. Must've raised and lowered the jack 40 times.

If the driver's side top bolt is like that, I don't know what I'm going to do. It's not like I can mount a 2x4 hanging from the rafters.

This one is finger loose.
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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More than once I've gotten mixed up on directions when working from underneath. I usually catch it before I break a bolt tho...lol.
 

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More than once I've gotten mixed up on directions when working from underneath. I usually catch it before I break a bolt tho...lol.
Same. Usually.
 

9723

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More than once I've gotten mixed up on directions when working from underneath. I usually catch it before I break a bolt tho...lol.
Yeah, me too...I catch myself with that peanut butter jar. This bolt has been so arduous that I was sure which way.....a week ago.

...and on transmissions, you have bolts going both directions. Really have to pay extra attention when your on your back gettin' stuff in your eyes and the like.
 
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9723

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This bolt was proof that for me, the best thing to do in this situation, is to walk away and let settle in your head (this time, several times).....before you make a big mistake. At least that's what an "only fair" mechanic like me has to do.
 

9723

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The other one, maybe a 24" 2x4 from above and a sledge hammer.
 

9723

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Driver's side top bolt. From above? Doesn't look promising, intake manifold, steering column, brake system, pretty crowded.
 

9723

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2nd top bolt out. Easy, at least compared to the other one. I'm almost surprised it worked this way.

Again raising and lowering the jack, but only about 10 times. Used my gear-head ratchet. It was a normally torqued bolt. This setup works well, easier than using a bunch of extensions, but on this side.....screwed to a wooden floor with 3" decking screws.




Unfortunately, because I didn't bolt down the siding (below) on my jack, it slides front to back a little. That means I'll have to put the rear cross-member back, remove the jack and bolt the siding down. No biggy, I don't have to torque the cross-member. I've still got 4 easy to get to bolts in the trans, just snug.



I don't know what I'll have to do to torque these bolts back, but I expect all the extensions will be necessary. Hope I don't have to remove a fender well.
.
 
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RobbieD

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Your perseverance is paying off. Great job so far on figuring out how to work around the obstacles you've ran into.
 

9723

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Your perseverance is paying off. Great job so far on figuring out how to work around the obstacles you've ran into.
....probably the only reason I get things done. There's nearly always a way, if you don't give up.

People here have also helped a lot with different suggestions. That helps me consider options and gives me ideas.
 
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9723

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I'm glad I needed to remove the jack with the rear cross-member in place. It's shown me the adapter plate is too long. Not by a lot, so I'll cut an inch off each end today. Then anchor the siding in the back only, so I can put wedges under the front....when needed.
 

9723

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This wasn't too bad, but not any fun. I wasn't happy with the way it went. I intended to use some wedges, but got on a roll and went for it. I'm using a large scissor-jack under the engine, which means I can't pound in wedges from the front. That jack is in the way, so the only way I'll get wedges in, is from the sides....two at a time. I'll just have to make extras. Circled below is the rust from contact with the pressure plate. When putting it back in, it's going to have to be lined up right.................I'll rub off the rust and put a small amount of grease on the input shaft. Today.



Below you can see where the end of the input shaft dragged on the pressure plate (small circle), but what really gave my a problem was the harness and its mount (large circle). There's no place to put it out of the way really and it snagged on the top of the transmission. I had to move them both around a little at a time until I moved it out. It didn't get snagged until the last inch.



I'll have to improve on my procedure to get it back in. Period. No ifs ands or buts about that!
 

RobbieD

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Congratulations! Yours does have more "stuff" in the way, than my '94 2.3L did.

Besides the rust, the input shaft end looks like it might have some discoloration. Check the pilot bearing real good, as now would be the time to replace it if it's worn out.
 

9723

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Congratulations! Yours does have more "stuff" in the way, than my '94 2.3L did.

.....as now would be the time to replace it if it's worn out.
Yes, planned on that. I've got a new flywheel on hand if I think it's gotta be replaced, but it's a LUK. Are they good? There doesn't seem to be very many options. Flywheels, I looked. Not many. Not that I want to, but mine has had a tiny bit of chatter. Has since I bought it in 2001, but with a bit of care and mostly highway driving, it hasn't gotten any worse, not a bit.

When it comes down to it, I want anything I do to be permenant. I only drive it 1000 miles a year now. All the clutch parts are Exedy, an OEM manufacturer for many, but their only flywheel for my Ranger is lightened. I didn't want that.
 
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RobbieD

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LUK brand parts are good. I've used both LUK and Exedy and never had a problem with either. On a 2.3L, your pilot bearing may be in the crank (my '94's was).
 


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