Finally have to pull the trans.

[9723]

can't vouch for a 1997, but this is what a 1998 floor looks like. had a big removable plate around the shifter.


View attachment 63149

Yep, you're correct. That's exactly how mine is. I'd have to tear up the foam underneath to open the staple ends, but it might be the only way.

 

[9723]

I realized I probably don't even need to remove the shifter cover if I pull the carpet up and remove that plate. The cover and foam piece might come up in one piece with the plate.

So how do I pull the carpet up? Can I pull it back from under the dash?

Thanks

 

[RobbieD]

It does, and you can. Remove the step plate from the lower door opening (about 4 phillips screws). Pull the carpet from behind the kick panel (between the door and firewall). Pull the corner of the carpet and fold it back, and see if that gets you enough room to get to the floor plate screws. On my older trucks, I pull the passenger seat, if needed, to get the carpet back far enough to get the floor plate out.

 

[9723]

It does, and you can. Remove the step plate from the lower door opening (about 4 phillips screws). Pull the carpet from behind the kick panel (between the door and firewall). Pull the corner of the carpet and fold it back, and see if that gets you enough room to get to the floor plate screws. On my older trucks, I pull the passenger seat, if needed, to get the carpet back far enough to get the floor plate out.

Unfortunately, mine is the bench seat. No way to get it out. My garage is single bay...can't even get the doors opened all the way without removing shelves, etc. Probably not even then. 10ft wide.

 

[RobbieD]

Bummer. I only have a "one-holer", too, and know how hard it is to work in close confines.

Just pulling the step plate would let you see how far the carpet could be pulled back,, but I just don't know on a bench, if the back of the floor plate would go under it.

 

[9723]

Bummer. I only have a "one-holer", too, and know how hard it is to work in close confines.

Just pulling the step plate would let you see how far the carpet could be pulled back,, but I just don't know on a bench, if the back of the floor plate would go under it.

From underneath, the screws that hold it to the floor aren't very far behind the shifter. I'll measure the distance, before taking off the step-plates.

 

[9723]

I've got about an inch and a half to spare. The way carpet folds, if those screws are philips it won't be easy, if they're hex-head they'll be easier.

I'll have to do both sides and pull the carpet up on to the seats.

 

[RobbieD]

The way carpet folds, if those screws are philips it won't be easy, if they're hex-head they'll be easier.

On the older trucks there's 4 hex-head sheet metal screws, 8mm (5/16") heads, I think, holding the plate in. I hope that your later model is hex-head, also.

 

[9723]

On the older trucks there's 4 hex-head sheet metal screws, 8mm (5/16") heads, I think, holding the plate in. I hope that your later model is hex-head, also.

There's a single access hole in the side panel...looks like you can pry out the button (?), so you undo a nut or bolt. Is that how to remove the side panel? I'll have to do that to put the carpet back down anyway, right?

 

[RobbieD]

By "side panel" I assume you're looking at the kick panel; the one under the dash ends, between the door and the firewall. I don't know the '97 model, but on the older trucks (through '94) you remove the step plate to free the bottom of the kick panel, pull/pry out the push-in retainer (the "button"), and then rotate the kick down and to the rear to free the skinny strip at the top. On mine, I can pull the carpet out from under the kick panels, and then tuck it back in behind them when reinstalling it.

 

[9723]

By "side panel" I assume you're looking at the kick panel; the one under the dash ends, between the door and the firewall. I don't know the '97 model, but on the older trucks (through '94) you remove the step plate to free the bottom of the kick panel, pull/pry out the push-in retainer (the "button"), and then rotate the kick down and to the rear to free the skinny strip at the top. On mine, I can pull the carpet out from under the kick panels, and then tuck it back in behind them when reinstalling it.

On the driver's side, mine has a pull-out plug, I guess to make sure it doesn't interfere with the emergency brake. It all came out, not much problem, shifter panel too. The two top bolts are still at least a foot forward, so no PB Blaster and tapping. I'll have to go find a 13mm x 1/2" drive socket tho. I really don't think any of my 3/8" will do the job, especially the 3/8 x 1/2" adapter. I've broken too many of them through the years. Hopefully I can get one at Napa or HomDep. I've got lots of 1/2", but not a full socket set. Just what I've needed.

Yeah, ...local napa has a 6 point, 13mm x 1/2" impact socket I'll go get in the morning.

 

[9723]

Nope, the 13mm x 1/2 drive socket wouldn't go on the bolt all the way. I think the ridge next to the hole is closer than it looks in this drawing, and there's something else there too. It must be the harness the forward co2 connector comes from....I couldn't get the socket on straight. Hopefully I haven't ruined the head of the bolt.

So far the only thing I've been able to get on the bolt is the 3/8" set at left (image below), but all the extensions cause it to twist and I couldn't get enough pressure on it....from below. I may try that again from above later with only three extension and no 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. I can use my 3/8s ratchet and a pipe. I've never seen a Craftsman ratchet break. At least I'll find out if I've messed up the bolt's head.

The only other thing I have to try will be coming in the mail in a few days.

Last option?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A six point wrench and bend it where needed to access from above.

 

[9723]

A six point wrench and bend it where needed to access from above.

I don't understand what you mean. The bolt is 12 inches in front of the forward side of the shifter plate. It's actually harder to access from above. I have to put the socket and extenson on from below (laid on top of the trans), then go in the cab put the ratchet on the extension....can't reach the bolt from above, can't see it either. The only advantage is fewer extensions.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you have the engine and trans tilted down you wont be able to access that bolt easily. If the trans is lifted back to stock position or higher then it opens up that top area. Most likely a cheap six point wrench, (not socket) can be bent in a vice . Six point, not 12 point as the six point is less likely to jump of the bolt head and round it off. If you cant bend the wrench with brute force, heat the wrench red hot and bend, then cool in oil. Once bent the wrench might look like a S from a side view.