Finally have to pull the trans.

[9723]

I have a '97 2.3, xlt plane Jane Ranger (with M50D trans) and this has been coming for a long time. At 170k miles, the trans has been fine, but I could tell something was wrong, so I've got most of the parts on hand.

Couple days ago I got up to go to the store...no clutch. I had driven it a couple days before... worked fine. There was some throw, but no grab at all. I'm guessing the slave/throw out bearing leaked Dot 4 all over the clutch.

I've never pulled a trans out of a truck before, so I'll appreciate everybody's experience. I don't have anything but a standard floor jack and I can't pick up the truck real high...small 3-ton tripods, that's it.

Might be able to attach a 2x6, or piece of metal plate on to the floor jack, and how high can I get away with lifting the truck?

Any thoughts on this kis helpful.

 

[Paulos]

It depends on the suspension and tire size. I have a stock '87 Ranger 4x4 with stock suspension and only slightly larger tires, and I can remove the trans and just barely roll it on it's side to get it out from under the truck without jacking it up at all. I would think that 2 or 3 2x6's under each front tire would be enough to drop the trans and remove it from under the truck. But like I said, it depends on the suspension and tire size. Obviously, the less you have to raise the truck to drop the trans the better. Like a lot of Ranger owners here, I find it easier to bench press the trans into place, and a small floor jack sitting on a piece of plywood works good for lowering it (unless you're comfortable with bench pressing it to lower it, from previous experience).

 

[broncc]

I had a 2wd stock tire size and I could take the tranny out without jack stands. The transmission is light enough that you don't really need the jack. I rested it on my knees when pulling it out and putting it in.

Make sure you have several extensions to reach the top bell housing bolts easier. Clutch alignment tools help too.

 

[9723]

This surprises me, tho I put Mazda size tires on because I needed to go up big hills on I-10...smaller tired gave me the extra torque I needed....made a difference.

I'm also lightweight, old...etc, so I don't think I'd wanna try it without a jack, even if it were only 75 lbs. Any idea what it weighs?

 

[Paulos]

Any idea what it weighs?

Mazda M5OD-R1 (M5R1) Transmission Specs & Ratios

Mazda M5OD-R1 and M5OD-R1HD transmission specs, ratios, and information. The M5OD-R1, or simply M5R1, is a 5 speed manual transmission found in various Ford applications, the most widespread of which is the 1988 to 2011 model year Ford Ranger.

www.f150hub.com

 

[9723]

Mazda M5OD-R1 (M5R1) Transmission Specs & Ratios

Mazda M5OD-R1 and M5OD-R1HD transmission specs, ratios, and information. The M5OD-R1, or simply M5R1, is a 5 speed manual transmission found in various Ford applications, the most widespread of which is the 1988 to 2011 model year Ford Ranger.

www.f150hub.com

The transmission. Thanks, I'll check the link.
Says 90 lbs. Yeah, I won't risk it without a jack under it. I'm 66 now. My hands are injured, and if I've learned anything, it's not to push my physical limits like I used to. I can do most anything as long as I take precautions.

I have some 2x10 lying around, maybe I'll put it on those. My wheels, I think are 205 instead of the 215s it came with, so I'll try 4 under each wheel.

 

[9723]

Have I got the wrong spec? In the linked specs it says Ranger w/4.0L. Mine is the 2.3L.

I thought for sure mine is the M50D
Never mind, that one is the "HD", in the 4.0L.

 

[9723]

I have yet to move my Ranger into my "working" garage. It's in my little garage....not far, but my working garage has a 1ft rise over 7ft. The only way I can do it is with my 2-ton come-along and straps. Could take some time, and I had intended to do it before it broke, but I didn't. Now I get to do it the hard way. ...had to do that with my car a couple years ago. It only weighs 2600 Lbs, but it won't be a lot harder, just take more time.

 

[9723]

I am delayed...too much rain to move my Ranger from one garage to the other (with a come-along).

Does anybody think I have to order new CVs for the driveshaft? I've seen NO indication they're worn out....or any where near worn at 170k miles.

Maybe the front and back trans seals tho...

 

[9723]

Surprise. I managed to move my Ranger into the other garage without my come-along. Took 3 rolling starts to get it in there straight. Backwards, I didn't try turning it around.

It doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Once the clutch is all the way out, it works for the most part, but still slips a little. Almost as if you could adjust it where it was fully engaged, it would work. That doesn't make sense. There is NO adjusting on this type clutch...how could it, "not quite" be engaged? If there was hydraulic fluid on it, how could it enguage at all? It would just slip. If it were completely worn out, you'd hear it scratching either the flywheel or the pressure plate. I guess I'll find out.

Could the springs in the pressure plate be worn out and nothing else? I kind'a doubt that.

 

[9723]

I do lots of photos for my reference and encase I'm doing something stupid, somebody can tell me so:

As suggested I'm just putting it up on blocks.....should be close to the suggested height.

I hit an 8-point buck at 73mph in this truck a few years ago. I was doing 83mph on I-10 in West Texas heading back to work. It's hard to believe the buck laid down at the last second, and I went over his head and hind-end with all 4 tires like a speed bump. I did NOT try to turn away, just keep the Ranger straight. All it did was mangle the license plate, front air-dam and break one of headlights and side markers on one side where his antlers hit....and cracked the plastic grill, but no body damage. I had a brand new set of headlights and markers lights waiting in my garage at work, that I was getting ready to replace anyway. Lots of grace on that, I've seen what deer can do to full-sized trucks much less my little one.

...blocks anchored together with 3" decking screws.

 

[9723]

I had to roll the truck a little forward for the blocks. I've got more clutch than I realized, but I know the slave cylinder or lines leaks, at least a little. I had to use a stop-leak product in a long time ago. That worked pretty well and I've had to put more in rarely. The clutch only engages way at the end. I did put a little more fluid in, but I'm wondering if the only thing wrong is the slave...or line leak?

It probably makes sense to put in everything. Don't you have to pull the trans to change the slave cylinder anyway? No info regarding that in my manual.

 

[9723]

Ok, one thing at a time. I removed and saved my trans fluid. It's only been in the trans for 1500 miles, so I'll filter it and put it back in. I also lubricated, ragged and bagged the spline going into the back of the trans. I got the driveshaft out and it was stuck. It had never been removed before so it was seized onto the differential yoke. I put some PB Blaster on it and tapped around the flange with my brass hammer. It didn't budge, at first.

Because I'm only a fair mechanic and have never done this before, I realized there was something else I was missing. I got behind one of the flange ends with my small crowbar and tapped toward the front. The yoke has a centering ring....makes sense if you think for a minute, but my Haynes manual has no image of this and doesn't mention that you've got to pull toward the front of the truck.....and mine was seized too. It wasn't that hard, but it bugs me that manuals don't mention these things.

Next, will be the electrical, mechanical and hydraulic connections to the transmission, but first something else I'm trying to come up with.

I looked at transmission attachments for floor jacks. They were all 4-5 inches tall. So I'm working on my own. I think this plate is too large and I'll cut it down on my bandsaw. I can also cut slots into the plate and use some very large hose clamps I have to hold the trans....and I'll put some rubber carpet in between. I've stood on one side of this plate, so it seems to be secure enough for a 90 Lb. transmission.

I'm not fast at this stuff, but I'm methodical. I only like working on cars once for each item needed. This truck hasn't needed much, so I don't know a heck of a lot about it. I have done extensive work on my 1990 Acura Integra, but what I learned there, means nothing regarding my Ranger.

 

[RobbieD]

You're doing good. Just keep plugging away, and don't get discouraged.

Glad to see that you've made an adapter for the jack; it'll definitely help.

While the transmission is out, check for the 3 rubber plugs on the back of the shifter tower. If yours still has the rubber plugs (or if they're missing) it'd be a great time to to put freeze plugs there (a common failure point and fix).

Good luck!

 

[pwrshft99]

Last time pulled trans, removed the shifter boot and mini console around it. Placed a longer piece of angle iron across the top of the tunnel and attached ratchet straps to it. The straps cradled the trans while and made it pretty easy to raise and lower without a jack