• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Finally have to pull the trans.


9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I have a '97 2.3, xlt plane Jane Ranger (with M50D trans) and this has been coming for a long time. At 170k miles, the trans has been fine, but I could tell something was wrong, so I've got most of the parts on hand.

Couple days ago I got up to go to the store...no clutch. I had driven it a couple days before... worked fine. There was some throw, but no grab at all. I'm guessing the slave/throw out bearing leaked Dot 4 all over the clutch.

I've never pulled a trans out of a truck before, so I'll appreciate everybody's experience. I don't have anything but a standard floor jack and I can't pick up the truck real high...small 3-ton tripods, that's it.

Might be able to attach a 2x6, or piece of metal plate on to the floor jack, and how high can I get away with lifting the truck?

Any thoughts on this kis helpful.
 
Last edited:


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: F9A1A579ACFAD1: October 1st, 2021

Paulos

Active Member
Joined
May 7, 2018
Messages
448
Reaction score
190
Points
43
Location
North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1987 STX
Make / Model
Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
It depends on the suspension and tire size. I have a stock '87 Ranger 4x4 with stock suspension and only slightly larger tires, and I can remove the trans and just barely roll it on it's side to get it out from under the truck without jacking it up at all. I would think that 2 or 3 2x6's under each front tire would be enough to drop the trans and remove it from under the truck. But like I said, it depends on the suspension and tire size. Obviously, the less you have to raise the truck to drop the trans the better. Like a lot of Ranger owners here, I find it easier to bench press the trans into place, and a small floor jack sitting on a piece of plywood works good for lowering it (unless you're comfortable with bench pressing it to lower it, from previous experience).
 

broncc

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2020
Messages
143
Reaction score
139
Points
43
Location
MA, USA
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
31
My credo
Giving my truck more money than it deserves.
I had a 2wd stock tire size and I could take the tranny out without jack stands. The transmission is light enough that you don't really need the jack. I rested it on my knees when pulling it out and putting it in.

Make sure you have several extensions to reach the top bell housing bolts easier. Clutch alignment tools help too.
 

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
This surprises me, tho I put Mazda size tires on because I needed to go up big hills on I-10...smaller tired gave me the extra torque I needed....made a difference.

I'm also lightweight, old...etc, so I don't think I'd wanna try it without a jack, even if it were only 75 lbs. Any idea what it weighs?
 

Paulos

Active Member
Joined
May 7, 2018
Messages
448
Reaction score
190
Points
43
Location
North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1987 STX
Make / Model
Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
The transmission. Thanks, I'll check the link.
Says 90 lbs. Yeah, I won't risk it without a jack under it. I'm 66 now. My hands are injured, and if I've learned anything, it's not to push my physical limits like I used to. I can do most anything as long as I take precautions.

I have some 2x10 lying around, maybe I'll put it on those. My wheels, I think are 205 instead of the 215s it came with, so I'll try 4 under each wheel.
 
Last edited:

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Have I got the wrong spec? In the linked specs it says Ranger w/4.0L. Mine is the 2.3L.

I thought for sure mine is the M50D
Never mind, that one is the "HD", in the 4.0L.
 

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I have yet to move my Ranger into my "working" garage. It's in my little garage....not far, but my working garage has a 1ft rise over 7ft. The only way I can do it is with my 2-ton come-along and straps. Could take some time, and I had intended to do it before it broke, but I didn't. Now I get to do it the hard way. ...had to do that with my car a couple years ago. It only weighs 2600 Lbs, but it won't be a lot harder, just take more time.
 
Last edited:

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I am delayed...too much rain to move my Ranger from one garage to the other (with a come-along).

Does anybody think I have to order new CVs for the driveshaft? I've seen NO indication they're worn out....or any where near worn at 170k miles.

Maybe the front and back trans seals tho...
 

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Surprise. I managed to move my Ranger into the other garage without my come-along. Took 3 rolling starts to get it in there straight. Backwards, I didn't try turning it around.

It doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Once the clutch is all the way out, it works for the most part, but still slips a little. Almost as if you could adjust it where it was fully engaged, it would work. That doesn't make sense. There is NO adjusting on this type clutch...how could it, "not quite" be engaged? If there was hydraulic fluid on it, how could it enguage at all? It would just slip. If it were completely worn out, you'd hear it scratching either the flywheel or the pressure plate. I guess I'll find out.

Could the springs in the pressure plate be worn out and nothing else? I kind'a doubt that.
 

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I do lots of photos for my reference and encase I'm doing something stupid, somebody can tell me so:

As suggested I'm just putting it up on blocks.....should be close to the suggested height.



I hit an 8-point buck at 73mph in this truck a few years ago. I was doing 83mph on I-10 in West Texas heading back to work. It's hard to believe the buck laid down at the last second, and I went over his head and hind-end with all 4 tires like a speed bump. I did NOT try to turn away, just keep the Ranger straight. All it did was mangle the license plate, front air-dam and break one of headlights and side markers on one side where his antlers hit....and cracked the plastic grill, but no body damage. I had a brand new set of headlights and markers lights waiting in my garage at work, that I was getting ready to replace anyway. Lots of grace on that, I've seen what deer can do to full-sized trucks much less my little one.

...blocks anchored together with 3" decking screws.
 
Last edited:

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I had to roll the truck a little forward for the blocks. I've got more clutch than I realized, but I know the slave cylinder or lines leaks, at least a little. I had to use a stop-leak product in a long time ago. That worked pretty well and I've had to put more in rarely. The clutch only engages way at the end. I did put a little more fluid in, but I'm wondering if the only thing wrong is the slave...or line leak?

It probably makes sense to put in everything. Don't you have to pull the trans to change the slave cylinder anyway? No info regarding that in my manual.
 

9723

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
324
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Ok, one thing at a time. I removed and saved my trans fluid. It's only been in the trans for 1500 miles, so I'll filter it and put it back in. I also lubricated, ragged and bagged the spline going into the back of the trans. I got the driveshaft out and it was stuck. It had never been removed before so it was seized onto the differential yoke. I put some PB Blaster on it and tapped around the flange with my brass hammer. It didn't budge, at first.



Because I'm only a fair mechanic and have never done this before, I realized there was something else I was missing. I got behind one of the flange ends with my small crowbar and tapped toward the front. The yoke has a centering ring....makes sense if you think for a minute, but my Haynes manual has no image of this and doesn't mention that you've got to pull toward the front of the truck.....and mine was seized too. It wasn't that hard, but it bugs me that manuals don't mention these things.



Next, will be the electrical, mechanical and hydraulic connections to the transmission, but first something else I'm trying to come up with.



I looked at transmission attachments for floor jacks. They were all 4-5 inches tall. So I'm working on my own. I think this plate is too large and I'll cut it down on my bandsaw. I can also cut slots into the plate and use some very large hose clamps I have to hold the trans....and I'll put some rubber carpet in between. I've stood on one side of this plate, so it seems to be secure enough for a 90 Lb. transmission.

I'm not fast at this stuff, but I'm methodical. I only like working on cars once for each item needed. This truck hasn't needed much, so I don't know a heck of a lot about it. I have done extensive work on my 1990 Acura Integra, but what I learned there, means nothing regarding my Ranger.
 
Last edited:

RobbieD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
2,218
Reaction score
681
Points
113
Location
Georgia
Vehicle Year
1984,1990,1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
You're doing good. Just keep plugging away, and don't get discouraged.

Glad to see that you've made an adapter for the jack; it'll definitely help.

While the transmission is out, check for the 3 rubber plugs on the back of the shifter tower. If yours still has the rubber plugs (or if they're missing) it'd be a great time to to put freeze plugs there (a common failure point and fix).

Good luck!
 

pwrshft99

New Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
15
Reaction score
8
Points
3
Transmission
Automatic
Last time pulled trans, removed the shifter boot and mini console around it. Placed a longer piece of angle iron across the top of the tunnel and attached ratchet straps to it. The straps cradled the trans while and made it pretty easy to raise and lower without a jack
 


Top