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Bolt Spinning Free -- Bed Removal, 1991 Ranger

Rodango

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Hey all, on my 1991 XLT Supercab Ranger, started it a week ago and it was spitting gas below, near the gas tank / fuel pump I guess, it was pretty messy underneath with just the ignition on, not even running, so I shut it down.

Jacked onto stands now. Going to replace whatever I can get to that needs it -- shocks, brakes, fuel filter and connector and lines, filler neck (it gets old I've read), tank (depending on condition), maybe more.

I was unable to get the heat shield off from below due to the driveshaft -- bolts are solid on there, even with a breaker bar and penetrating oil. So went to pull the bed: 5 of the 6 bolts came out without much drama, the 6th, closest to the driver's seat is just spinning. The clip it screws into is deep in a beam (box channel? steel frame member?) and blocked on one side by the gas tank...no access on the outboard side or from below.

I guess I have to drill or saw it? Have tried with the T55 bit on a fast electric drill with the bed jacked up to tension the clip, but no joy. I think the clip is rusted to the bolt and just spinning without being held by the metal of the frame; can't even get a screwdriver tip under the washer at the bolt head.

Suggestions?

Also, is this probably the same bolt as later Rangers -- can I get a new bolt and clip from Ford parts or an online source? How would I get the clip into place: is it accessible with the bed off? Hey, thanks for any help - I've already gotten a lot of help from reading the forum!
 


Observer

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What I did was go to the Ford dealership and ask for the bed clips, but not the bolts. They overcharge 100x on bolts. (And I prefer hex heads anyways..)

I used a grinder to remove mine, drills and saws are just cumbersome.. grind it and wear protection for your eyes!

These:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FORD-SUPER-DUTY-BED-BOLTS-CLIPS-AND-BOLTS-1999-TO-2012-F250-F350-/350712324015?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a8155faf&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_481wt_1318

Then I found these guys online and got some of their flanged nuts. They're rock solid and came coated in oil.. fresh off the line. Super cheap as well...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-13-FLANGE-NUTS-CLAMPING-KIT-BRIDGEPORT-MILL-NEW-/350462906531?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item51993790a3#shId

I ground out the slots on the ford clips and removed the nuts that come with them.. as they are not threaded. The ones you buy will have "blank" nuts that thread as you impact a bolt into it.. I didn't like that idea so I used the dremel and made the ones I bought fit.


They fit well, although they are a bit larger than these stock type ones:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50-Extruded-U-Nuts-5-16-18-Chrysler-6023171-Ford-45264-/121045459921?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2edf23d1&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_2776wt_908


For bolts, there's a warehouse nearby me that sells grade 8 hex head bolts that fit those flanged nuts (1/2-13 course thread) in most lengths.

If you can't find a local supplier pm me and I can hook you up! :icon_thumby:
 
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Scrambler82

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When your reinstall the bolts use a good "Never Seize" type product on the threads.
 

killj0y

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Mine did the same thing but on the passenger side. Used a grinder.
 

martin

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His original post says he has gas leaking all over the place, I don't think using a grinder is a particularly good idea in these circumstances.
 

Mark_88

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His original post says he has gas leaking all over the place, I don't think using a grinder is a particularly good idea in these circumstances.
Good point...use a torch instead...lol

I think three of mine broke with a few good twists with my Johnson bar and a torx 55 socket...and I did have a heck of a time finding suitable replacement bolts (until I went to a Brofasco)...

I prefer the Allen socket heads but they were very expensive and don't sit flat like the hex heads (OK, flatter)...I used them on my body mounts instead...
 

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If you grind the head off the bolt inside the bed you won't catch it on fire lol.
 

killj0y

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If you grind the head off the bolt inside the bed you won't catch it on fire lol.
Well that is an option, or drill it out so you don't cut up your bed. So you have an air hammer/chisel? You could punch that sucker out.

Mainly just get the head off then pull the bed so you can work with it better and actually see what your doing and not compromise your bed.
 

Observer

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He said it spit gas when it was started.. thus meaning it's a rotted fuel rubber hose most likely.

If you're that paranoid about gas fumes setting alight, take a garden hose and flood the area before you start? :headbang:
 

Rodango

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Followup

Took out the bolt by drilling down into the head. I'd read that it was really tough steel, but a little oil for cutting fluid and it drilled right out. Knocked it with a big hammer and the head popped right off.

Now that I have the bed out, I can see where the lines are rotted (1991 and all.) Should I be looking for some sort of complete line-replacement kit? Or should I try to find replacement fittings and then join them to 1/4" fuel grade hose (like we used to do way back when; my '69 El Camino comes to mind, or my '67 Firebird.) I have a clip remover toolset on the way already, (the cheapy plastic set on Amazon.) But I don't see a fuel line set advertised anywhere.
 

PanamaExpat

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My 94 has plastic ones that don't look like they could ever rot. Wonder if you could replace them with a set of those and then never have to worry about it.

Any way you look at it I would replace any rubber tubing if it is original from 91. You will just end up chasing recurring leaks around if you don't. Your patch might hold a week, a day, or maybe even a week day.
 

Rodango

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Hmm, haven't found any fuel line replacement kits for Ford, esp. for the 1991 Ranger. Did find them for all kinds of GM stuff, Kia, etc., so it's not so impossible to imagine. But those kits were >$150 typically, so maybe just buying parts is a good thing. I'm not sure about the right tube or pipe size for the lines. The adapters seem to come most often in 5/16" and 3/8". Not sure if that's an internal diameter or external or just a convention on size, and doesn't measure out at all. Guess the best way is to pull the lines, mark them as I go, and try building up replacements at the parts store.

Read that the pressure side would be around 60 to 70psi, does that sound right? I would really rather find some threaded high-pressure fuel lines with, say, a braided SS jacket. But even if so, are they available to attach to the type of connectors used on the fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator, etc, as used on this original application (1991 Ranger)?

I believe the original material was Nylon with pressed-in barbed - slip connectors? Dorman sells a tool to use with their connectors that's around $20? Apparently this truck is getting a bit old and no one expected it to be running 22 years later so parts and info is getting scarce...but lots of people must (re)build fuel injected motors so this can't be that different of an application....

Suggestions? :icon_twisted:
 

Mark_88

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When I pulled the 2.9 out of my second Ranger the lines were mostly plastic. The fittings were pressed in and I can't recall actually seeing any metal lines at all.

When I relined it for my 2.3 carb, at first I just ran a length of fuel grade hose from the tank line (plastic) to where the filter/pump would normally be and then ran metal lines up through the frame to prevent damage. I have since replaced the hose from the tank with a metal line, but I connected them with normal clamps...it has been sealed fine without leaks since.

Only thing I would suggest is to hang the lines high up in the frame if you can...keep it out of the crud at the bottom of the frame rail.
 

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