94 b4000 axle swap/offroad build


kroussinoffroad

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As expected my springs were on my front porch as soon as i got home.
I was soo excited i didnt even get a picture or measurement until they were in my Truck With the weight on them. I managed to rig up some straps to keep the axle from rolling out from under the truck ( not centered ). With the truck sittin on them they measure 22'' and i hope they settle more. they are only in there temporarly as i was sooooo friggin excited

so here is a pic of the truck on the spring's




And the lower and half assed upper mount



my upper bucket will look somin like the once complete, i may go with the EB coil bucket in the future but this will work for now

 


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dangerranger83

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Where do the arms want to sit now that you have the spring under it?

As for the coils in the coil bucket, you can make a J-hook and bolt the hook to you coil bucket and it hooks to the coil, that would be the safer thing then the hose clamp.

I have to say its looking great, if mine was together and I had everything I would be doing it now, cold or not. But due to my brother-in-law needeing our garage soon to switch an engine in a KIA for my sister, mine will be put on hold for a bit, as far as it going under my truck, but I will still be ordering parts.

You have the part number for the coils or a link to the place you got them, just incase my jeep ones dont work? Sorry to ask so many questions, I would just hate to get my SAS wrong.
 

kroussinoffroad

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as far as the coil bucket i will be modifying it. that is no where near the finished product. i just wanted to sit the truck onto the springs. i will be removing all of the tabs. i dont like the way the coil sit ( clocked at any direction) and will be fabbin up sommin like you see in the last picture

the arms are located right about where the trans crossmember sits
i will have some pic's of the crossmember modified somewhere along the line's (its not finished yet)

and the coils. they are from bronco graveyard for a 78-79 f-150 for 6'' super flex rated at 300 ppi. let me get a little further along and i will let you know if they work the way i want. I'm hoping they settle down some since there sittin at 22'' compressed right now (a little higher than i wanted )
 

dangerranger83

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My arms will be right where my radius arms for my D28 are mounted, from what my messurements are telling me, so I shouldnt have to mess with my trans. cross member. Yours being back that far should give some nice flex.

I hope to get my pinion back this week so I can get it throw back together and whatnot so I can see what else I need. I guess in the mean time, messure stuff and order stuff I need. I think my most expensive part will be the drop pitman arm, hope I can find one cheap.

Why does evrybody have to use my garage that I need, I cant wait till spring but i might have to now, I hate winter now.
 

kroussinoffroad

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you will most likely be runnin alot shorter coil than i am if your runnin factory jeep arms, if you call around most company's are pretty good about gettin you specs on there springs such as free length and weight capacity (ppi). That may help you get the coil's that will best suit your needsi can PM you what information i found What's left
 

dangerranger83

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If my coils are to tall I an cut them down. That will also stiffen them up to. I'm told mine are 150 pound spring rate, they give an XJ 6.5 inches of lift. Now a ranger is heavier in the front so that should chill how much lift I get. Like I said I'll try them first and if they dont work for e then I'll get new ones.



Oh ya.....more pictures the better, any and all you can get, everybody likes pictures of a build.
 

kroussinoffroad

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im tryin to get as many pics as i can hopefully i should be able to get a ton of pics over the weekend as it should be able to sit and hopefully drive on the dana 30



 
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dangerranger83

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Did you order a drop pitman arm or are you going to try to use the stock one?

Not that I can see more of it I hope the springs compress a little more to, that thing is in the air. If you didnt already know, I'm told that the jeep TRE that attaches to the pitman arm will have to be changed out and a ranger passenger side TRE will have to be put in its place or you will have play in your steering, thats what I was told.
 

kroussinoffroad

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no drop pitman yet but will most likrly need one, i have allready switched the tre but didnt work as nicely as i hoped i will address that further in here once i get to that point
 

kroussinoffroad

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Finnally recieved my link brackets, and have them about ready to be bolted to the frame. All i need to do is finish my Trans crossmember I will post some pics tommorow of the crossmember and brackets Hopefully be able to get some pics of them on the truck
 

kroussinoffroad

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made a ton of headway on the truck and managed to just about clean the beer out of the garage fridge. didnt get as many pics as everyone would most likely want to see. if you dont see pics of something that has been done just lety me know and i can snap some.

The list of things done today include : Building my link bracket/ trans crossmember mount, bolting up the link brackets, rigging up the steering, modifying the springs to work,installing the springs, Installing the crossmember,.
EVERYTHING is temporary as i will need to do alot more work to make everything I did today FINAL alot of areas do need to be adressed as you may see in the pictures. and i allready know that

before the work started


Link Brackets


Trans crossmember

Drive shaft isnt quite long enough





There are still a few things to be addresses such as :
Steering angle,panhard bar, shocks, and drive shaft
 

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I hope you arent done with that whole radiusarm and x-member assembly. That wont hold up to much abuse. Should put a little more thought into it.

I would trash the stock x-member parts completely, get rid o those spacers and shit you have in there so it all sits flush. You shoul o put 4 bolts on he side instead of the 3 in line but oh well. then if you have a tube bender just bend up a new x-member to go between the radius arm mounts. Or weld a straight peice inbetween them at the bolts level.
 
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kroussinoffroad

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Well there are 6- 1/2'' bolts holding each radius arm bracket onto the frame. if those wont hold i will really need to address the 1-9/16'' bolt that holds the arm to the bracket and as far as spacers i think your talkin about the washers in the rear between the 1/4'' angle iron the the link bracket. well that will suffice for now. i used what was available to make it work. My main concern is addressin the critical stuff. and come back to stuff such as this. As far as done i dont think the vise grips and c-clamp point to being done, as does it state in my post

And as far as abuse, I dont like to think i abuse my truck
BY THE WAY
I dont mind a little critisizim, But i noticed alot of your posts are Just negative or tellin people there doin it wrong
Just somethin i thought i might point out
 
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Flash Gordan

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BY THE WAY
I dont mind a little critisizim, But i noticed alot of your posts are Just negative or tellin people there doin it wrong
Just somethin i thought i might point out
Just tell all the people hatin on your stuff to STFU!!!!
 

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Well there are 6- 1/2'' bolts holding each radius arm bracket onto the frame. if those wont hold i will really need to address the 1-9/16'' bolt that holds the arm to the bracket and as far as spacers i think your talkin about the washers in the rear between the 1/4'' angle iron the the link bracket. well that will suffice for now. i used what was available to make it work. My main concern is addressin the critical stuff. and come back to stuff such as this. As far as done i dont think the vise grips and c-clamp point to being done, as does it state in my post

And as far as abuse, I dont like to think i abuse my truck
BY THE WAY
I dont mind a little critisizim, But i noticed alot of your posts are Just negative or tellin people there doin it wrong
Just somethin i thought i might point out
the problem isnt the bolts themselves, its te arrangment of them and the way it puts stress on the frame, can cause cracking. The washers you stacked is just extra leverage and loosness for things to move around, and it looks janky. The tranny x-member also looks kind of janky but more importantly does nothing for supporting the frame rails, and beings you cut it and looks like you just welded flatbar on will probably eventually sag at that point.

BY THE WAY, its a good thing you dont mind a little bit of critisism... because you're posting on the internet. If you dont like it, dont post. But there is a difference between critisism and being a dick... Im offering you advice on something i have much more experience in, not trashing your project. It actually has the potential to be a clean, nice swap with the components you've bought...
 
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