Swapped Electric fan kit, wont turn off. Bad control module?

[PetroleumJunkie412]

The American volt thermostats are the only ones I can get to work and stay working. Yes, they're a bit speedy, but I've had to use the manual backup fans over Chinese ones.... the American volt ones have yet to let me down

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I think I may have just thought of something....

My thermostat is 195....why are the fan sensors at lower range? I figure if they go off the same temp source (coolant), shouldn't the fan range be slightly above thermostat open temp, so that they're not constantly fighting eachother?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

My buddy does hvac, hes got one for a furnace that kicks on at 180 and is adjustable for the kick off temp...he said mounted on the top flat of radiator should work. it likes less airflow than the automotive ones... figure its worth a shot...

 

[RonD]

Couldn't find any specs on the FFD Dynamics Efan electrics

But the temp sensor should have a spec for high and low temp, or a degree range, on/off range
Ranger upper rad hose should run at 190deg or so, lower 175deg or so

You would set temp sensor at say 195deg if on upper rad, 180deg if on lower rad
So fan would come on only after engine temp went 5deg above normal, then fan would stay on until temp dropped say 10deg, so it might stay on awhile, but fan does add at least 5deg of extra cooling for radiator

Lower hose/rad might be a better location for temp sensor, since the e-fan directly effects the lower rad temp, but just generally effects upper rad temp

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Lower hose/rad might be a better location for temp sensor, since the e-fan directly effects the lower rad temp, but just generally effects upper rad temp

Lower was absolutely necessary for mine...

when I had the sensor in the upper, the fan would kick on during the first coolant cycle, and continue running until the ignition was shut off.

Lower fixed that problem since its reading the temperature of the water returning to the engine, instead of what gets through the bleeder hole.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Couldn't find any specs on the FFD Dynamics Efan electrics

But the temp sensor should have a spec for high and low temp, or a degree range, on/off range
Ranger upper rad hose should run at 190deg or so, lower 175deg or so

You would set temp sensor at say 195deg if on upper rad, 180deg if on lower rad
So fan would come on only after engine temp went 5deg above normal, then fan would stay on until temp dropped say 10deg, so it might stay on awhile, but fan does add at least 5deg of extra cooling for radiator

Lower hose/rad might be a better location for temp sensor, since the e-fan directly effects the lower rad temp, but just generally effects upper rad temp

It is adjustable, but now doesnt do squat. The fan is always on even on cold startup....Ima swap it out, waiting to hear back from FFD maybe theyll warranty it.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Lower was absolutely necessary for mine...

when I had the sensor in the upper, the fan would kick on during the first coolant cycle, and continue running until the ignition was shut off.

Lower fixed that problem since its reading the temperature of the water returning to the engine, instead of what gets through the bleeder hole.

Thats what mine does. but now the probe is just dangling in the open and is cold, fan still kicks on right away and wont shut off. I have yet to see it shut off on its own once. I will relocate probe once I get a new controller or find the problem.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Thats what mine does. but now the probe is just dangling in the open and is cold, fan still kicks on right away and wont shut off. I have yet to see it shut off on its own once. I will relocate probe once I get a new controller or find the problem.

Are you using the thermostat to control ground side or hot side?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Are you using the thermostat to control ground side or hot side?

how can I find that out? I am not sure...but with the probe unplugged, fan stays on. I tried jumping the pins in probe plug, it did nothing, fan stayed on.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

what if I were to run it off a heater hose adaptor? would I want higher or lower temp sensor?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Oh. Wiring issue. Did you post pics of your install? Can't remember.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

what if I were to run it off a heater hose adaptor? would I want higher or lower temp sensor?

All depends. I run a 180 coolant thermostat with a 190 electric fan thermostat. Fan does not come on while at speed, only when sitting in traffic. Etc.

One of the reasons I like thin single core radiators and a high flow thermostat. Thin rad flows air from driving easier than a multi core rad, and the high flow allows the block dump very quickly. The combo allows for fast, efficient coolant flow that only uses the fans when the temperatures get excessive.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Oh. Wiring issue. Did you post pics of your install? Can't remember.

no but I can snap post some now...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

All depends. I run a 180 coolant thermostat with a 190 electric fan thermostat. Fan does not come on while at speed, only when sitting in traffic. Etc.

One of the reasons I like thin single core radiators and a high flow thermostat. Thin rad flows air from driving easier than a multi core rad, and the high flow allows the block dump very quickly. The combo allows for fast, efficient coolant flow that only uses the fans when the temperatures get excessive.

I switched back to the thin radiator so the fan would fit. It does cool the engine down fast once it kicks on, the drops steadily, it just doesnt turn off even when the gauge is getting too close to C.

Yes thats what I want, a setup that will run the fan only when it needs to.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

All depends. I run a 180 coolant thermostat with a 190 electric fan thermostat. Fan does not come on while at speed, only when sitting in traffic. Etc.

One of the reasons I like thin single core radiators and a high flow thermostat. Thin rad flows air from driving easier than a multi core rad, and the high flow allows the block dump very quickly. The combo allows for fast, efficient coolant flow that only uses the fans when the temperatures get excessive.

I heard 180 thermostat is a nono for my ranger. I always ran a 180, but now run a 195. But yes a higher fan thermostat makes sense, the fan and thermostat fighting eachother the whole time doesnt make sense.