Swapped Electric fan kit, wont turn off. Bad control module?

[Eddo Rogue]

No difference IF the toggle switch is rated for the same AMPs at 12volts

But one other benefit of a relay is that the larger wires needed to supply 40amps, at 12volts, can be shorter, and you only need the 3 larger wires
Ground, from battery to fan motor
12V positive from battery to relay
Relay to fan motor

The relay on/off control wires can be much smaller, only need to pass .5 amp


In most cars/trucks relays are control by Grounding
This is because its easier, cheaper, and safer
The relays will have to have 12v to supply power to the device they control
You then just need to jump that 12v to pin 86 on the relay
So now when you Ground pin 85 the relay will activate

So you just need 1 smaller wire to a switch in the cab, the switch can be grounded IN the cab, so just 1 wire is needed thru firewall to the relay, easier and cheaper
The safer part is because of the possibility of a wire shorting, the longest wire has the most potential to short, and its a GROUND wire, if it shorts all that happens is that the relay and its device actives..............no blown fuse, no melted wires, so safer


The controller is so you can activate the Fan Relay
They used a standard automotive relay on the controller because its cheaper and easier to replace than a circuit board activated relay
But the "controller" can be made as all one circuit board, and still have the AC IN and Light Out, with a mini-relay on the circuit board
As said above the Temp Sensor can't switch Fan Relay on/off, it doesn't have that electrical circuit, its just variable OHM/resistance device
You still need a circuit that "reads" OHMS and can be setup to toggle on/off at specific OHMs

I think you can buy temp sensors that have preset on/off, but they would be screw in type and as said preset temps not adjustable
Like the oil pressure switch that Rangers use, but for temp instead of pressure

That's pretty much what I had drawn out in my head, thanks for the clarification....I was asking kind of a brush up when I got to wire my lights as well (its been awhile since my last wire up).

Ok so based on what you and Dirtman and PJ are telling me, I will need an 80 amp or higher relay, but only one.

Yep I'm doing exactly that, eliminating the controller and running a preset sensor. I ordered a few temp ranges and some hose adapters. They will be here Thursday....

Quick question, do I want a single prong or 2 prong sensor? or doesnt matter? Ive seen both....I think one wire sensor will suffice if Im running a relay right?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Also I think Dmans sensor was in upper hose, and PJ yours was in lower hose? I got adapters and hoses to try either location, as well as the heater hose. Figure this is gonna be a trial and error situation, where do u guys think I should start for sensor location? lower hose? you guys ever try the heater hose as a sensor location? I have a 5/8" hose adapter on the way as well as an 1 1/2", both take 1/8" npt sensor

 

[RonD]

I doubt that fan motor can draw 80 amps???

30 amps maybe

Amps are the USED power in a circuit

A starter motor draws/uses 60-75amps when in use, this is why Cables, not wires, are used for starter motor

Alternators amp rating can be a bit misleading
Most vehicles use 40-50amps with EVERYTHING on

An alternators amp rating is when it is spinning at engine RPMs of 2,500 or higher
At idle, 700-900rpm, an alternator can only produce 60% of its rating
so a 100 amp alternator has 60amps at idle
130 amp alternator, 78 amps

And this is NOT what flows thru alternator's wires, this is the potential amps available as needed

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I doubt that fan motor can draw 80 amps???

30 amps maybe

Amps are the USED power in a circuit

A starter motor draws/uses 60-75amps when in use, this is why Cables, not wires, are used for starter motor

Alternators amp rating can be a bit misleading
Most vehicles use 40-50amps with EVERYTHING on

An alternators amp rating is when it is spinning at engine RPMs of 2,500 or higher
At idle, 700-900rpm, an alternator can only produce 60% of its rating
so a 100 amp alternator has 60amps at idle
130 amp alternator, 78 amps

And this is NOT what flows thru alternator's wires, this is the potential amps available as needed

Ya it seemed a overkill to me, but I'm not confident enough in electrical to call any shots....but sounds like this nice 40 amp I got will do fine, right?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I just remembered something that concerned me...while I was working in the driver side fender on the wiring, I grazed the starter relay and got burnt! the terminals were really hot! This was when the truck was running and warm (fan on) during my initial test. I recently swapped the 95amp alternator for a 130. Im guessing I need to do the big 3?

 

[RonD]

Just looked up the FFD Dynamics fan specs, they seem to range from 10amps to 20amps depending on the model

 

[RonD]

I just remembered something that concerned me...while I was working in the driver side fender on the wiring, I grazed the starter relay and got burnt! the terminals were really hot! This was when the truck was running and warm (fan on) during my initial test. I recently swapped the 95amp alternator for a 130. Im guessing I need to do the big 3?

Not sure what the big 3 are?

But you can run another wire from B+, on the back of the alternator to the Battery Positive post on the inner fender relay
It would need to be 10gauge wire with a 40amp fusible link added at the battery cable end

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Not sure what the big 3 are?

But you can run another wire from B+, on the back of the alternator to the Battery Positive post on the inner fender relay
It would need to be 10gauge wire with a 40amp fusible link added at the battery cable end

"Big 3" kept popping up, so I read about it...they swap out the 3 main wires for way beefier ones...and that alt to battery wire is one of em...sounds like the most important one.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Just looked up the FFD Dynamics fan specs, they seem to range from 10amps to 20amps depending on the model

Sweet, so more confirmation that a 40 amp relay will be fine?

 

[RonD]

Yes, more than fine

Most automotive relays are rated 30/40 amp

Never read about the big 3 before
I assume they would mean larger gauge positive and negative cables, and then add or use larger B+ wire(s)

Length of the wire matters alot for the amps it needs to carry at maximum load
Battery cables, up to 6ft long can be 6gauge and are fine up to 150amps, same length but over 150amps should be 4gauge

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

So, this one is totally your call, but since I added a ton of electronics (electric power steering, lights, fans, etc), i went for a more direct route with regard to ignition signal for on/run.

Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Automotive

Buy Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Solenoids - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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I used a continuous duty solenoid to power a relay box out of a 1994 ranger. Rewired the box, and essentially turned it into a power distribution center for add ons.

Works really, really well. Keeps things simple, and any time I want to add on, I grab a relay or fuse lead off the auxiliary box, and get to work.

If I had to do it again, I'd absolutely use an aftermarket relay and fuse box. The oem one was a PITA, but hey, at least it looks semi factory

 

[Eddo Rogue]

So, this one is totally your call, but since I added a ton of electronics (electric power steering, lights, fans, etc), i went for a more direct route with regard to ignition signal for on/run.

Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Automotive

Buy Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Solenoids - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I used a continuous duty solenoid to power a relay box out of a 1994 ranger. Rewired the box, and essentially turned it into a power distribution center for add ons.

Works really, really well. Keeps things simple, and any time I want to add on, I grab a relay or fuse lead off the auxiliary box, and get to work.

If I had to do it again, I'd absolutely use an aftermarket relay and fuse box. The oem one was a PITA, but hey, at least it looks semi factory

It would be nice to have something like that, I don't want a bunch of wires hanging out of my fuse box. Besides this Efan fiasco, I now have a light bar, 2 small LED light squares, and an air horn to wire in.....

 

[RonD]

There are also 12v Bus Bars like this: https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Power-Distribution-Block-Cover/dp/B078VGKC8T/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=12v+bus+bar&qid=1591200257&sr=8-14

And there are also mini-fuse boxes, like this: http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/images/b748fa69-a489-4d17-9e55-03676b85efe9.JPG

Make sure they come with a Cover

You can also use a Ground bus but the whole vehicle is a ground bus so up to you

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Alright another update. So after I replied to FFD with a long winded email of tests performed, and requested the resistance parameters of the probes so I know what to look for testing them. They replied "were gonna go ahead and send out a new controller" lol.

I'm not even gonna use it now (going w/ fixed temp sensor) but will go ahead and leave positive feedback, at least they back their product.

Maybe I can use it on something else...will toss in electrical junk drawer...along with all the other leftovers from this project

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Yes, more than fine

Most automotive relays are rated 30/40 amp

Never read about the big 3 before
I assume they would mean larger gauge positive and negative cables, and then add or use larger B+ wire(s)

Length of the wire matters alot for the amps it needs to carry at maximum load
Battery cables, up to 6ft long can be 6gauge and are fine up to 150amps, same length but over 150amps should be 4gauge

Yes I think thats it, and yea they variably go super beefy on the wires....I've read everything from 6 gauge to 0 gauge!