Swapped Electric fan kit, wont turn off. Bad control module?

[Eddo Rogue]

Some "big 3" references (which I came across whilst researching for an alternator upgrade)

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/200-amp-alternator-upgrade/

https://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2010/alternator_upgrade.shtml

 

[RonD]

Yes, it really depends on the length of the wire with 12volt systems

On some vehicles battery is on opposite side of engine's starter motor, so beefer cable is used, at least 4gauge

On an older Camry we had the battery was right above starter motor and positive and negative cables were maybe 8gauge, lol

If you do a custom build with battery in the trunk/bed then 0-2gauge should be used

 

[RonD]

Alright another update. So after I replied to FFD with a long winded email of tests performed, and requested the resistance parameters of the probes so I know what to look for testing them. They replied "were gonna go ahead and send out a new controller" lol.

I'm not even gonna use it now (going w/ fixed temp sensor) but will go ahead and leave positive feedback, at least they back their product.

Maybe I can use it on something else...will toss in electrical junk drawer...along with all the other leftovers from this project

A fixed temp sensor should be a switch and have two connectors, and the two connectors are OPEN, High OHMs(N/C) or CLOSED/Connected, 0 OHMs, direct connection

And neither connector is connected to external metal of the sensor/switch

If this is the case then you can use the same 12v activation for the fan relay AND AC activation for the fan relay

One temp sensor wire to the blue wire(on fan relay) and key on 12v fused wire to other temp sensor connection
For AC you need a DIODE to connect it to the Blue fan relay wire

A Diode only allows electricity to flow 1 way, in this case from AC clutch 12v wire TO the fan relay's blue wire
If you don't use a diode then any time fan is activated by the temp sensor the AC clutch would get the same 12volts so AC compressor would come on
The diode prevents the temp sensor's 12v from traveling back to AC's Clutch, but still allows the 12v AC to activate the fan



Generally you would use Ground activation of the Fan relay with a temp switch, but then you would need another relay to add the AC "fan on" to the system, a diode is cheaper

 

[Eddo Rogue]

A fixed temp sensor should be a switch and have two connectors, and the two connectors are OPEN, High OHMs(N/C) or CLOSED/Connected, 0 OHMs, direct connection

And neither connector is connected to external metal of the sensor/switch

If this is the case then you can use the same 12v activation for the fan relay AND AC activation for the fan relay

One temp sensor wire to the blue wire(on fan relay) and key on 12v fused wire to other temp sensor connection
For AC you need a DIODE to connect it to the Blue fan relay wire

A Diode only allows electricity to flow 1 way, in this case from AC clutch 12v wire TO the fan relay's blue wire
If you don't use a diode then any time fan is activated by the temp sensor the AC clutch would get the same 12volts so AC compressor would come on
The diode prevents the temp sensor's 12v from traveling back to AC's Clutch, but still allows the 12v AC to activate the fan



Generally you would use Ground activation of the Fan relay with a temp switch, but then you would need another relay to add the AC "fan on" to the system, a diode is cheaper

Yes I am randomly familiar w/ the function of a diode, thanks again to my H.S. auto shop teacher. When he was explaining how alternators/generators work, taught how AC is converted back to DC with diodes, which are basically one way valves for electricity.

I think my biggest problem is I doubt my knowledge and skills....But that's a can of worms we'll keep shut.

Idk bud perhaps cheaper is relative. I dont have any diodes, wouldnt even know where to start finding the right one. Spending time learning which one I need (to which Im sure the answer will vary), and then tracking that down, buying it, and waiting for it, is way more cost than just wiring in a relay from the pile I have accumulated.

But I try to keep an open mind, and wouldnt mind trying. Can I buy a diode from autozone? or would it be a big deal to find which one I need to order from amazon?

Unfortunately I think the sensors I ordered have only one prong. Gotta order 2 prongers now.

 

[ericbphoto]

There are some diodes found in Ranger engine compartment fuse boxes. Would probably work fine. Cheap at the junk yard

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Update: I would like to sadly inform everyone that I gave up and went back to the stock clutch fan setup for now. I didnt put back my thick core radiator, kept in the new single core skinny radiator, for when I do have everything and then some to give this another shot. Plus my old thick core is kinda beat from from squeeze ins and occasional fan buzzes .... I did attach a new fan to my 8 engine hrs old motorcraft fan clutch, and put back the slightly mangled shroud (I'll order a new one, because even after Efan swap vistory, I will keep the clutch setup ready just in case.)

Test drove in 90 degree mid day heat, city and freeway, watching my temp gauge the whole time. stayed right in the middle, went up slightly to the "M" when running ac. Seems fine for the 195 thermostat, and at least held steady for a change.

BONUS!: On my way back, the amp gauge drop and battery light came on. Did my brand new shiny Bosch 130 amp crap out? Im too pissed off to even throw meter on it. Thankfully my old crappy looking but bulletproof 95 amper is right here ready to swap back in. I'll deal w/ this after it cools down to the sun setting, post tequila and beer.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

There are some diodes found in Ranger engine compartment fuse boxes. Would probably work fine. Cheap at the junk yard

Ha! u answered my question as I was posting it, along w my bad news grump rants....

IDK about junk yard hunts amidst all this covid sh!t....Im not far from the LA protests and riots, its a bit challenging being a Joe Shmo trying to slip thru that stuff trying to fix up my crappy lil truck....Ill probably spend an extra buck and order some off amazon, Id rather wait it out than go out in public at the moment

Thankfully the auto parts stores seem off radar....everyone's busy hoarding toilet paper and sitting in drive thru's.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You guys are awesome, what a terrible fiasco and fun adventure this has been!

Sadly and wonderfully, you're all are more helpful, educational, funny and interesting than my day to day friends, which I guess is more like family by now, by which I mean I dont even necessarily like or have anything in common with them, I just love and am stuck with them.

It gives me slight faith in humanity, and makes my world view less bleak, that any of you would give 2 shits enough to read what I post and reply to it. Which I try to repay by checking for posts that I can contribute to, especially from the guys that reply repeatedly to mine...I believe in karma and paying back/fwd.... and if I gotta be involved at all, would rather make someones day than ruin it.

Anyways, thanks present new friends/future family! (lol no offense).

 

[RonD]

Fry's electronics sells diodes as well

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Fry's electronics sells diodes as well

The one by my house closed down

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Fry's electronics sells diodes as well

what diode would I need? Im assuming 12v, but what amps/ohms/watts/mah idk etc should I look for? I know theres a million specs,details and variables to stuff like this, hence the need for extreme nerdiness to master it

 

[RonD]

You would be fine with an 1N5820 Diode, 20v 3amp, way more than you need, but cost difference is negligible
6 of them run about $2 or under $1 each if you can get just 1

1N5820 DO-201AD is the type and package

The line on the diode is at the end that blocks flow IN

12v-->>>----[........|.]--->>>-------12v

0v---------[........|.]---<<<-------12v

 

[ericbphoto]

The key rating to pay attention to is how many amps they can pass. It needs to be able to pass the maximum current (amps) that the circuit will see. Also needs to be rated for the circuit voltage or more. If it's just in the control part of the circuit (relay coil) then it won't be very many amps.

Do what RonD said.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

well that seems resonable enough....Ima study/shop for diodes to add to my pile of stuff coming in for attempt number two....

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Another update. I went back to the fan clutch setup, using a new fan and practically new clutch (and kinda beat but still in one piece old shroud)

This was supposed to be for now, until all my Efan parts come in, but now Im having second thoughts, and may stick w/ the clutch (for now).

Perhaps it was the new fan and switching back to the thin core radiator that made the difference, but its running real nice! gauge stays right around the middle no matter what Im doing, but does move slightly accordingly.

I think my thick core radiator, and the buzzed down fan I ended up with after fitting it, was less than ideal.

The airplane noise even quieted down a bit w/ the new fan and thin radiator. Which was my whole beef to begin with (besides hoping for power gain)

So now Im back to the drawing board, scouring anything related to Efan vs Clutch fans, even in forums for other vehicles.

Not finding anything new or more useful, so I may revive a beaten dead horse and make a new post about this debate.

I'll come back to this post if/ when I take another stab at the Efan.

I saved the Diode info in my notes, good stuff!