SOOOooo... ALL aftermarket RADIATORS are the auto-trans version, zero M/T specific models?


Would you have preferred I quote and call people out specifically?
I'll speak for myself here, as someone who lived on Commonwealth Ave for 5 years and who has a great fondness for MA. Everyone's got their way of interacting with the world and some people can be a bit... direct. I would just suggest resisting the temptation of calling people stupid. Everyone's here either to learn, to teach, or to shoot the $h1t. If you see a chance to teach, teach.
 
...
I’ve removed the tank before, that little trans cooler thing is a tiny radiator inside the side tank.

That threaded thing with the O-ring serves as a connection to pass fluid (it’s a pass-through bulkhead fitting), as a mounting (it holds that little radiator inside place inside the tank), and as a seal. The trans cooler lines thread into it or you can thread a plug in.
Got me a Torxe brand (yeah, I never heard of 'em either) single-core rad from CarID.com (saved me about $25 over cRock Auto!), and it's got separate hex ring-nuts that hold the ATF cooler to the inside wall of the tank, but it also has these spendy looking 5/8-18 UNF nipples/bulkhead fittings, with O-rings on both the male and female threads!

ATF cooler nipples x25.jpg


Gonna keep those aside for some future "performance" mods, since they don't plug the ports anyway... I'll find something much cheaper to plug those holes with.
 
... I will take some pics of the transmission coolers that came out of a variety of rads...
Stay tuned...
So these little sub-radiators cool the ATF down to approx. 200degF... any idea what the INcoming ATF temp is? ♨️:icon_confused:
 
I think most auto transmissions would like to operate in a similar temp range to most engines, 190-200F. Torque converters run quite a bit hotter than that due, counterintuitively, to friction (at least 250F, maybe all the way up to 300F under heavy load) You wouldn't think a fan spinning in oil would generate much friction but the work going on in there is enormous. I believe the vast majority of autos pump their oil straight from the torque converter into whatever cooling system they have (internal, external) to drop as much heat before dumping it back into the transmission.
 
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This is from some service data.

"Note: The transmission fluid level should be checked at normal operating temperatures, 66°C - 77°C (150°F - 170°F), on a level surface. The normal operating temperature can be reached after approximately 32 km (20 miles) of driving. However, you can check the fluid level without driving if the outside temperature is above 10°C (50°F). When the vehicle has not been driven, and the outside is above 10°C (50°F), the fluid level should be between the holes on the indicator. If the transmission fluid is to be checked when the fluid is at room temperature, the fluid level indicator could indicate that fluid should be added if the indicator is misread. If fluid is added at this time, an overfill condition could result when the vehicle reaches operating temperature of 66°C - 77°C (150°F - 170°F)."
 
This is from some service data.

"Note: The transmission fluid level should be checked at normal operating temperatures, 66°C - 77°C (150°F - 170°F), on a level surface. The normal operating temperature can be reached after approximately 32 km (20 miles) of driving. However, you can check the fluid level without driving if the outside temperature is above 10°C (50°F). When the vehicle has not been driven, and the outside is above 10°C (50°F), the fluid level should be between the holes on the indicator. If the transmission fluid is to be checked when the fluid is at room temperature, the fluid level indicator could indicate that fluid should be added if the indicator is misread. If fluid is added at this time, an overfill condition could result when the vehicle reaches operating temperature of 66°C - 77°C (150°F - 170°F)."
What year and vehicle?
 

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