88 2ltr weber mod

[Mark_88]

It might work...but if you look at the carb it has two bolts to hold down the breather...that has been a source of aggravation for me when you have to remove it a few times...especially when your hands are already frozen from farting around with it and those butterfly nuts fly away from your fingertips...

I was thinking of putting a bridge across the two and then adding a single threaded bolt in the middle that would hold down the lid...but it would still require the base of the original breather because of the odd shape (pointed oval)...

That's when I came up with the idea of making a new breather out of the base and other parts...

it might work...but I've been buying parts that "might fit" long enough to know that some of them just don't work and money spent on them is pretty much wasted...

 

[upnsmoke]

Hey Flamin, if I may ask, how much initial timing advance are you running? I figure yours may be similar to mine as you have a similar cam. I can't get my truck to run well on the low end with less than 15 degrees, and it seems happiest with about 18. I think stock is about 8-10 degrees, and I knew I would need more than that with the cam I have, but 15+ degrees seems awful high to me. I am running 89 octane right now. I have only heard a ping once, and that was a hot day when I had been running the motor hard in traffic for a while, on 87 octane with 15 degrees initial advance. I guess I should have gotten my head decked.

 

[flaminranger]

its funny everytime I see my name posted it makes me laugh. the flamin thing was done as a joke but it still makes me laugh...
anyways to answer your question I am running 10 degrees right now hoping for better fuel economy(ha ha) but I had it set to 14 before in hopes of a little more low rpm power- but nothing happened so I set it back to 10.
my engine really needs some head work done like a 3 angle valve job, some bowl work, and port match the manifolds also maybe mill the head for some compression.
as it sits I probably gained 15 horses from before but I didn't do the mods for power I did them for economy. by trying to make the engine run more efficiently I gained 1 mpg.
my carb needs some tuning done as it runs rich at idle I think it needs different emulsion tubes because changing idle jets and adjusting the airfuel doesn't help. also if I stop quickly you can smell gas then it starts to cut out. I looked into the problem and the weber shop I got the parts @ said the carb should be mounted 90 degrees to what it is because when you stop fuel sloshes out of the fuel bowl into the manifold. oh well

 

[Mark_88]

Try adjusting your float a bit lower...less fuel in the bowl means less slosh...I did that to mine inadvertently...when I was trying to fix the needle problem I was having...

 

[flaminranger]

I did it is suppose to be at 19mm and I set it to 17mm it got better but it still does it.
Duane

 

[upnsmoke]

its funny everytime I see my name posted it makes me laugh. the flamin thing was done as a joke but it still makes me laugh...
anyways to answer your question I am running 10 degrees right now hoping for better fuel economy(ha ha) but I had it set to 14 before in hopes of a little more low rpm power- but nothing happened so I set it back to 10.
my engine really needs some head work done like a 3 angle valve job, some bowl work, and port match the manifolds also maybe mill the head for some compression.

I hope for your sake the joke is more figurative than literal. With the Solex, I was able to run 10 degrees initial advance and the engine would start up and idle, even cold. With the Holley, however, I need 15 degrees initial advance to start the engine, and 18 or so to idle consistently. I was worried initially that the final advance would be too much, but I have gone as high as 20 degrees initial advance on 89 octane without a ping. I can only guess that the combination I have created with the carburetor, intake manifold, port work on the head, and my valvetrain, along with old school combustion chambers and low compression, has given me a motor that runs poorly on the low end, and that is something I suppose I will just have to live with.

I have a 3 angle valve job. I can't say how much difference it made on my motor as I did it at the same time as the cam and some other work, but I have had it done on other motors, and generally speaking I believe it makes a significant difference. I didn't do any work in the bowl, though it can make significant improvements in flow, because I wanted to keep the stock compression. At this point, I feel certain that if I take the head back off for any reason, which I likely will at some point, I will have it decked. If it can be decked enough to make up the lost compression, I think I will do some work in the bowls. Well, I don't feel any better about having to run the timing that I do, but I suppose as long as it runs good and doesn't ping, it's good enough and I should quit worrying about it. Thanks for getting back to me Flamin, it helps to have a reference to compare to.

 

[slk9275]

It might work...but if you look at the carb it has two bolts to hold down the breather...that has been a source of aggravation for me when you have to remove it a few times...especially when your hands are already frozen from farting around with it and those butterfly nuts fly away from your fingertips...

I was thinking of putting a bridge across the two and then adding a single threaded bolt in the middle that would hold down the lid...but it would still require the base of the original breather because of the odd shape (pointed oval)...

That's when I came up with the idea of making a new breather out of the base and other parts...

it might work...but I've been buying parts that "might fit" long enough to know that some of them just don't work and money spent on them is pretty much wasted...

Mark today i cut those two studs on the top of the carb off at the base then i knocked them threw the carb. I ordered the air filter i posted before. I figure i will have to do some cutting on the base on it or maybe be able to make my own base for the air filter. Keeping my fingers crossed that i can make this work.

 

[Mark_88]

Mark today i cut those two studs on the top of the carb off at the base then i knocked them threw the carb. I ordered the air filter i posted before. I figure i will have to do some cutting on the base on it or maybe be able to make my own base for the air filter. Keeping my fingers crossed that i can make this work.

I just did a bit of searching and a guy on another forum suggested that exact filter...so it will work from what I read...

Apparently they used these carbs on VWs as well as mustangs and a few other vehicles...and there is a reference to the Holley 6500...if your carb was off a Ford it is a Holley 6500C model...the first letters on the id tag should be D8EE or similar...this carb is also known as the Motorcraft 5200...

I found more info on this carb today than I did in ten other searches...lol

 

[slk9275]

I just did a bit of searching and a guy on another forum suggested that exact filter...so it will work from what I read...

Apparently they used these carbs on VWs as well as mustangs and a few other vehicles...and there is a reference to the Holley 6500...if your carb was off a Ford it is a Holley 6500C model...the first letters on the id tag should be D8EE or similar...this carb is also known as the Motorcraft 5200...

I found more info on this carb today than I did in ten other searches...lol

From what i have found the holley 6500 is a feedback version of the Motorcraft or holley 5200.The 6500 vacuum feedback models where used on ford 2.3s 1981 and up. All these carbs are exactly the same only difference is the vacuum switch. K&N sells a Kit for VWs and Mustang holley 5200 carbs like u mentioned that matches the filter kit i bought on ebay this is why i felt safe buying it. But we all know u get what u pay for so it may end up fitting like sh*t like most cheap parts. I will let you know how it fits and thanks for the help.

 

[slk9275]

Thanks Everyone for your help

From what i have found the holley 6500 is a feedback version of the Motorcraft or holley 5200.The 6500 vacuum feedback models where used on ford 2.3s 1981 and up. All these carbs are exactly the same only difference is the vacuum switch. K&N sells a Kit for VWs and Mustang holley 5200 carbs like u mentioned that matches the filter kit i bought on ebay this is why i felt safe buying it. But we all know u get what u pay for so it may end up fitting like sh*t like most cheap parts. I will let you know how it fits and thanks for the help.

Been awhile but finally finished. Mark you where right the carb i posted in earlier pics was a 6500 with the vacuum feedback i picked a 5200 up off a 74 pinto in the junkyard and rebuilt it. I grabbed the manifold off it also and throttle cable bracket. I finished everything got it running i had to end up setting my timing at 18 btdc to get it right. I got a set of tube headers ordered so that is next on my list. any way thanks for the help guys. Anyone know a good throttle cable to run with this carb I am using one off a 83 ranger but its a bit jumpy.

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj626/slk9275/Ranger2.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj626/slk9275/Ranger1.jpg

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks for the feedback...I had almost forgotten about this one and a few others that were hot a few months ago...but good to hear you got it sorted out...

My 88 throttle cable worked fine with the carb if you can find one (I know they can still be bought new for $75 at Canadian Tire)...and I found that FI models (including Mustangs) can be used if you want to cut and re weld the ball connector a bit lower (or was it higher) on the cable casing...I have one that I've been meaning to take to someone to weld up for me but since I replaced the cable (with a bicycle cable no less) it has been working fine...

Mine actually has a dead spot in it that I'm not sure what it needs to correct...it's pretty smooth otherwise and the zip tie trick has helped, even with a new cable (since it didn't quite work out the way I planned...lol).

Nice pics btw...does it run better than before or are you still having issues?

The tube header will make a weight difference for sure...some say they do not actually improve performance but they certainly look better under the hood...

 

[slk9275]

Yes I am very happy with the swap the truck runs way better and has more power now. Ive only been driving a little to Lowes and back and other places. So i haven't really seen if its helped out my mpg. I am very happy to get rid of that piece of crap asian crab and the 2 miles of vacuum lines that came off with it. The holley carb is way easier to tune and i upgraded to coolant choke to a electric one.

As for the throttle cable my original cable broke all the plastic completely fell apart. I had one laying around off a 83 ranger so i threw that on there. Its just a little jumpy at the start have to be real careful how much gas u give it. I also have a brand new cable off of a pinto i have yet to try. But i guess its the same as the one you where talking about that needed some altering.

 

[slk9275]

this mod and the new factory header as seen in the picture not only helped mileage but driveability.
I probably gained 10 lbs of torque on the lower side of the rpm scale and lost nothing on the upper end.
saturday I helped a friend move some concrete blocks and the bed was almost full to the top of the bed and it was heavy but I was able to climb a pretty steep hill in 4th gear and still accelerate @ 60mph. so to answer your question yes it runs good. it does take some tuning skills to get it done but if you read the directions carefully it isn't to bad.
and yes I replaced the 2 barrel aisin carb that was on the truck with a two barrel weber

I got my header on today and tapped to 4 holes on the head. What did you use to cap the port near the bottom of the header off with? Thanks

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj626/slk9275/182-Copy.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj626/slk9275/180-Copy.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj626/slk9275/179-Copy.jpg

 

[Mark_88]

I used my EGR return...to the carb...but had to use copper pipe...you can use an EGR fitting for it and just cap it with a 3/4" copper pipe cap...or was it 1/2"...they fit perfectly...but I drilled mine and secured it with a self tapping screw...

Very nice...looks like mine did (minus the breather) a few years ago...

 

[slk9275]

I used my EGR return...to the carb...but had to use copper pipe...you can use an EGR fitting for it and just cap it with a 3/4" copper pipe cap...or was it 1/2"...they fit perfectly...but I drilled mine and secured it with a self tapping screw...

Very nice...looks like mine did (minus the breather) a few years ago...

Thanks i will see what i can find. I actually got some free time to work on the truck for the next few days. I am ready to start driving it more.