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88 2ltr weber mod


I run my dizzy from the tree on the top of the intake where the brake booster is....the original equipment was such a pita that I was glad to find what I did...but if you have emission testing in your area you might want to look at my tech forum submission for an electric air pump...it works but I don't know if it reduces emissions...

The Holley 5200 is probably similar to mine and should fit the 81 intake...but if you had pics I could see if they changed the style from the 78...I don't think they did but I don't know for sure...and there are always custom adapters...if you want to spend a bit of money on that...just keep in mind the PCV inlet to the carb so the engine can draw off that air pressure in the oil pan...and also consider rerouting the valve cover output to somewhere other than the breather...mine has messed up so many air filters that I finally routed it out to a hose...was considering tapping it into the air pump hose to run into the cat but that would bung things up...

Take a look at how they valve cover outlet is piped into the air inlet on later models. It pretty much goes into the air intake to the throttle body...I'm working on routing mine this way so that any blow-by foam goes out but can't be sucked back towards the carb...was thinking of incorporating an intake like the Fuel Injected models have and putting it below the air filter...that would allow the foam crap to drain out of the air filter box and not muck up the air filter...working on it, but not completed yet...
 
I don't remember what the hole size was so I just found a tap that was close to the right size and used that. I looked in my toolbox to see if I could find the tap I used but I didn't find it.
as for the intake go for it if it matches up to the intake ports and enjoy.
Duane
 
I am lucky and don't have a emission test in my area. And i had the same issue with the valve cover output as you have had with the old stock carb. I ran a cheap oil catch can to save my air filters.
 
I tried the catch can once and had to abandon it because I was getting smoke under the hood that eventually made its way into the cab...not a good feeling...lol...so I figured it had to be routed somehow so the air can be drawn back through the carb and the foam separated...

I was going to try a canister sort of like the one for the PCV and went as far as grabbing one from the jy...but I couldn't figure a way to attach it without welding and cutting....I like the reroute into an air box...as soon as I can round up the parts and figure how to attach it to a breather...but I will have to fab up a special breather that will take the hose attachment...my current breather base needs to be used for this type of carb and I can attach a plastic or metal box on top and use filters in the box...route the VC hose so it comes in under the filter...

As long as everything is air tight it should work well...hypothetically...
 
Intake ports?

Does anyone know if the pre 1981 oval style intakes will bolt to my D shape head. Ive looked at the gaskets for both and the bolt patterns look the same the only difference is the oval shape. :icon_confused:
 
Ditto

The "shorty' header was on 93 and up Rangers and Mazda 2300's....I got mine off a 93 Mazda...

There are some who say NOT to upgrade to the shorty header...mine runs better and is lighter so I'm happy with it...but the old header was, apparently, a good flow...

I've 1 from a 94 and am VERY:icon_bounceblue:with it more THRUST :icon_hornsup:when I need it.
 
gaskets

Does anyone know if the pre 1981 oval style intakes will bolt to my D shape head. Ive looked at the gaskets for both and the bolt patterns look the same the only difference is the oval shape. :icon_confused:

Overlay the gaskets on each other to see what lines up,if the holes cooperate then just use the oval shaped gasket.IMO:icon_welder:
 
Does anyone know if the pre 1981 oval style intakes will bolt to my D shape head. Ive looked at the gaskets for both and the bolt patterns look the same the only difference is the oval shape. :icon_confused:

Overlay the gaskets on each other to see what lines up,if the holes cooperate then just use the oval shaped gasket.IMO:icon_welder:

Yes, that's what I did with my intake and D-port head...the outside ports (1 and 4) are more oval on the intake than D-shaped but the head ports are all D shaped...

There is some concern about fuel pooling at the lip if the ports don't match but you can actually do a port job on them with a home grinder...I was able to port my head quite a bit with just a drill and some grinding stones...and I did both the intake and exhaust sides...probably took off a 1/16 of and inch or so...maybe a bit more...but I was trying to eliminate the lip mostly...can't remember how it worked out because it was about 8 years ago that I did that work...

I've 1 from a 94 and am VERY:icon_bounceblue:with it more THRUST :icon_hornsup:when I need it.

Cool...I noticed a slight increase in power in mine...and about now when the truck is running right and with the right octane gas I'm more than happy with the performance...
 
Ok. Thanks for the help everyone. I was concerned about the fuel pooling up also. But i think i can do some porting like u said. I am going to get my intake this week finish cleaning up my motor and hopefully get started soon on this.
 
I got another question once i am done with this swap. will i need that computer box on the passenger side fender well. I would like to toss it to if i can.
 
Depends on the carb you use...if there is a little plunger on or near the accelerator linkage that appears to touch it (and it has wires connecting near the top), then that is an idle adjustment that is, apparently, controlled by the box on the passenger side...it helps to reduce or increase the idle as needed...

My carb has one as did the previous carb, but it is not connected now...so I could sort through the wires and determine what is needed and what can be cut out but I didn't get to it yet...

So I guess what I'm saying is it depends on what you put on whether you need it or not...many carbs do not have that kick down but not sure what ones do or don't...take a look at duanes (flamnranger) pics of his carb to start with...but I couldn't see the back end from what he's posted...maybe he can post a pick of the linkage...
 
there is no dashpot on this weber it is all mechanical.
I switched carbs because the original carb had the plunger and it never worked right. it would be fine and then quit working. I tried to replace the plunger but I couldn't find a replacement. and a new aisin carb is way to much $$$$$.
Duane
 
Yeah i bought a factory reman aisin carb about a year ago and a new idle pump that is on the front of the carb about a year ago. The truck still ran like crap. I am hoping the the holley will make a big difference. I am just waiting on my exhaust manifold gasket and my carb gasket and i can get it all back together. I would post some pics but i am not sure i know how to here is some links don't know if they will work

http://s1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj626/slk9275/?action=view&current=carbpic2.jpg


http://s1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj626/slk9275/?action=view&current=Carbpic1.jpg
 
Cool...that's the carb I have...but the intake is slightly different...couldn't see the inlet for the PCV...should be at the base of the carb...and couldn't see if it had the ilde kick down at the back near the accelerator linkage...

Over all it has been a good carb for me...but it has some quirks...

Are you getting the breather cover???? The cover for this carb is actually different from most others because it is moulded so that part of it dips below the top of the carb and is shaped to go over and around some of the front end components...

If you don't get the original I'd be interested in seeing an alternative...been wanting to replace mine for years but have not seen another one anywhere...
 

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