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nooch450
Well-Known Member
OK I understand what your saying but think about this. After some hard thinking and testing I realized that as a TTB supention cycles downword (droops) it creats a toe inward to the truck if there was 0* "bumpsteer" built in. I say this lightly becasue when I say bumpsteer im defining no movement from spindle to axle beam.
Picture this. Turn your wheels completly strait with a good alignment and weld your spindle to the beams, so both wheels are strait and they completly follow the path of the beam and radius arm arcs...
As the suspention droops out the beam pivot causes a camber, which in turn pulls the tires closer togerther on the bottom where they have contact to the ground. They have to becasue they are following the beam pivot point. But becasue your radius arms are also a pivot point the rear half of your tire does not toe in the same amount as the front does. This is because as the suspention droops out the rear of your radius arm (where it mounts to the truck) stays to the outside of the vehicle while at the same time the front (where radius arm connect to beam) does not.
The opposite happends on compression...
I was thinking that by placing my swingers in front of the beam pivots paralell to the truck i would correct this toe in and out caused by the flex.
I was correct about fixing the toe out on compression becase as the suspention cycles up the shorter tire rod length following a different angle curve would result in the tires toeing back into normal track paralell with the frame.
But on droop this would have multiplied my toe inward. Not good.
So Junkie, and anybody else if your following me lol, I understand why now you say you need to mount the swingers on the "red line". But by doing this you still have the natural TTB bumpsteer problem. I figured out a way to get rid of it... To do this you must not mount them on the red line, but just below the red line...
Picture a line from your beam pivot to your radius arm pivot, your looking at this line parrallell to your vision from the front corner of the truck, you want the tire rod pivot to be slightly below the line. This way as the TTB droops out the tires toe back out becasue of the pivot being slightly below "red line" and when it compresses it will toe in. Same kind of action that taked splace with your pinion angle on an unequal 4 link rear.
With all that said I realized something else. By putting extended radius arms on a TTB without extending the Pass side beam and moving the mount accordingly we are messing up the equalized camber/caster curve the TTB has with stock length radius arms. Im not sure how bad it is but look at this picture below, the red lines represent stock radius arms and the blue represent extended ones on stock beams, notice that the curves are no longer equal on both sides with the blue pivot points? The yellow line represents where the passender pivot should be in order to fix this unever arc.
I have thought about it alot and Im thinking about just getting the 4" drop pitman arm Skyjacker Part # FA600 instead of building a swinger setup....
Is this the way to go?
I want to put off building swingers untill "stage 2", when I extend my beams, do a C&T and move my pass side beam piviot to the drivers side of the truck as much as I can to make up for the extended radius arms...
). 
sitting on the ground... Half welded... Gussets need to be added... Than Steering is next... And i think I may need softer upper coil...
