Stock Rangers sit 1-1/2 inches lower in the front than the rear.  Actually, it's not the the front sits down...the rear sits up a little so that once the bed is loaded up it won't sag as bad.  Many enthusiasts don't haul that much and would prefer to have the truck site more level.  

Ford used spring perches on the early 1990's F-150's that sat under the bottom of the coil spring.  The part numbers are;

• F2TZ-5A307-A

• F2TZ-5A307-B

These cost me about $15 each at the local Ford dealer's parts counter.

The part numbers apparently refer to right and left and can be ordered from your local Ford parts department. These pieces fit on top of the TTB's and take the place of the current perches the front coils now set on. They are marked 4x2R/L.  However, when fitted on the Ranger, they seem to do best with the 4x2R on the LEFT and vice-versa.

WARNING: Using leveling spacers or coils can lead to quite an alignment problem. Positive camber results from this type of lift, and if you do not have enough adjustment available in your factory camber bushings you will need aftermarket ones. It is important to understand how camber alignment on the ford TTB is accomplished, and what you will need to do to bring the tires back into spec after the lift. Otherwise you will have headaches with alignment afterwards.

Factory Spacers:

Below are different views of a factory spacer:

Installation By: Eric Steinberg

The install went relatively smoothly. At first we didn't have the correct tools to get the spring retainer nut off. A 1 1/8" box-end wrench seems to be the best tool for the job. Aside from that you will just need your metric wrenches or sockets (18mm) for the shock and sway-bar nuts. Just make sure you can get some leverage. Several applications of penetrating oil (such as Liquid Wrench) to shock, sway bar, and spring retainer nuts a few days before can't hurt either. An impact driver is nice to have.
 
To begin, jack up the suspension on either side, place a jackstand under the frame, and pull the tire. Before you let the jack on the suspension drop, detach your shock and swaybar link. If you drop the suspension first you will have a hard time pulling both of these off. Once removed, slowly drop the jack letting the frame sit on the jackstand. The I-beams will drop far, and the spring will likely pop out immediately. Note the orientation of the spring (rotation) so that you can put it back in just like it was. Start working on that spring retainer nut with your box-end wrench. A length of cheater pipe may be needed.

While you have the chance, take a wire brush to that bolt. It will remove some of the rust and the nut will go back on a lot more easily than it came off.
 
The spacers are marked 4x2R and 4x2L. This would seem to mean that one is for the right and one for the left. However, I found that with the offset of the new spring perch, the 4x2L fit better on the RIGHT and vice-versa. The only important thing is that the offset faces towards the truck. The springs seem to fit better this way. The spacers have a little "finger" on the bottom that fits nicely just outside of the radius arm as shown.

Make sure the spacer sits down flat and does not rock on that "finger". Install the nylon washer that was under the spring and be sure that it is facing the same way as it was originally. Do not use the old metal spring perch, just the nylon washer.

Re-install the coil spring, retainer, and nut. Once everything is looking good, get that nut good and tight. The nice thing about these spacers is that they leave just enough thread on the bolt to get the entire retainer nut threaded on. Jack the suspension up enough to re-attach the shock and swaybar link. Put your tire back on and repeat on the other side.