What did you do to your 2019 and up Ranger today?

[sgtsandman]

I attempted to fix the 2019 in a parking lot with no success. The low oil pressure alert popped up. So I loaded up the tools in the 2011, stopped at a parts store for an oil pressure switch, and changed the switch. The warning popped right up when I cleared the code and the code came right back. It was P0034 on the Scangauge II, which doesn't make any sense since the Shop Manual says that is Turbocharge/Supercharger Bypass Valve A Control Circuit Low.

So, I followed the girlfriend home in case there was an issue and had her stay off the highways since it could go into Limp Mode (which it did). So, the truck is home in the driveway, where I have more tools and equipment to work on the issue.

I'll hook up the computer with Forscan and see what that tells me tomorrow. Doing some searching on the web, an oil change might help (It needs one anyway), and fuse F12 in the Battery junction Box may be an issue. One needs done anyway and the other one might be free, if it is a fuse I already have in stock. I'll do one at a time and see what fixes the issue. After seeing what Forscan has to say on the matter first.

 

[superj]

Granted, the engine bay is a bit bigger with the 2024 models but with the 2019 - 2023 Rangers, the only way to get at the oil filter with them is through the driver's side wheel well.

Thats what people were saying on the 6g forum, also.

 

[JohnnyO]

Granted, the engine bay is a bit bigger with the 2024 models but with the 2019 - 2023 Rangers, the only way to get at the oil filter with them is through the driver's side wheel well.

I guess the newer Rangers have bolts on the rubber flap. I replaced the plastic screws on mine with magnets. Just peel it back and stick it back on.

 

[JohnnyO]

Tomorrow I'll probably take out the sandbags and the deck I built to cover them. Pick up a little mpg.
In other news, someone ran a red light and smashed the right rear of my wife's minivan. Quarter panel, bumper cover, and the right rear wheel has some serious negative camber.

Took out the sandbags and the deck and put them in the yard barn.
It's a little early but the wife is the handbell choir director for both our church and the county choral society and has to hike bell cases around to rehearsals two nights a week for Easter season concerts. May not get a rental car for her until Tuesday or Wednesday. Luckily we both work in the same ballpark so carpooling is pretty easy.

 

[superj]

I guess the newer Rangers have bolts on the rubber flap. I replaced the plastic screws on mine with magnets. Just peel it back and stick it back on.

Mine has those plastic anchorswihere the center unscrews. I wondered after you commented but i noticed a person might not even have to undo the splash guard to change the filter if you just turn the wheel full to the right and reach in from above the wheel

 

[JohnnyO]

Mine has those plastic anchorswihere the center unscrews. I wondered after you commented but i noticed a person might not even have to undo the splash guard to change the filter if you just turn the wheel full to the right and reach in from above the wheel

I dunno, maybe. I change my oil using ramps so if I turn the wheel it'll probably fall off.
After a few oil changes the plastic screws started breaking so I got some neodymium magnets from Amazon. I used three pair with the flap sandwiched in between and a dab of Gorilla Glue for extra help. I don't know that there's room to pull the filter out over the left side of the engine but reaching through the fenderwell is easy enough. An FL-400S filter or equivalent is the same diameter and thread size and screws right on but it's longer so besides being larger than the OE FL-910S, it's easier to reach. I have a claw type filter wrench or you can use K&N filters with the 1" nut welded on the end.

 

[sgtsandman]

Troubleshooting continues. About 8 different things are controlled by that one side of the fuse (a lot of the fuses in the new Rangers are the three leg type with two fuses in one removable piece). I've eliminated the easiest ones to get to as well as the oil pressure sensor I replaced last night. I still have to verify the control solenoid for the variable pressure oil pump (Hardest by far to get to, so probably it) and the A/C control solenoid. I've also been inspecting the wire harness as I go and so far, everything has looked fine.

 

[sgtsandman]

I found it. A cheap piece of hose is used to hold the electronic thing on the clutch fan from spinning. Well, the hose disintegrated, allowing the wire harness to contact the clutch fan nut, which caused the loom and insulation to wear through. Shorting the wire, blowing the fuse, disabling about important sensors and solenoids, putting the truck in limp mode.

You can see the cheap aluminum bracket that is used to hold the hose on the upper left. There is still a bit of hose on it and the clamp.

All fixed.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

I found it. A cheap piece of hose is used to hold the electronic thing on the clutch fan from spinning. Well, the hose disintegrated, allowing the wire harness to contact the clutch fan nut, which caused the loom and insulation to wear through. Shorting the wire, blowing the fuse, disabling about important sensors and solenoids, putting the truck in limp mode.

You can see the cheap aluminum bracket that is used to hold the hose on the upper left. There is still a bit of hose on it and the clamp.

All fixed.

Wow. Crazy. My hose was coming apart, so I wire tied mine off a while back. Glad it was something simple. Hate you went through so much to find it. Thanks for the update. Hopefully it will help someone else down the road.

 

[sgtsandman]

Wow. Crazy. My hose was coming apart, so I wire tied mine off a while back. Glad it was something simple. Hate you went through so much to find it. Thanks for the update. Hopefully it will help someone else down the road.

The names they give some of these things and their locations are absolutely horrible. Even with a shop manual and the electronic schematic book, it was a rough road. Not to mention, why the heck would you make a fan clutch electronic??? Either go full electric fan or stay with the classic clutch fan.

As far as the hose, I would replace that so that the hose takes for force instead of the wire harness. Obviously, it can handle it but wasn't designed to, and if the bearing or whatever that thing rides on seizes up, the hose might give you a prayer in it not ripping the crap out of the wire harness.

 

[JohnnyO]

I found it. A cheap piece of hose is used to hold the electronic thing on the clutch fan from spinning. Well, the hose disintegrated, allowing the wire harness to contact the clutch fan nut, which caused the loom and insulation to wear through. Shorting the wire, blowing the fuse, disabling about important sensors and solenoids, putting the truck in limp mode.

You can see the cheap aluminum bracket that is used to hold the hose on the upper left. There is still a bit of hose on it and the clamp.

All fixed.

Thanks for the heads-up. Sport Tracs had a similar problem.

 

[sgtsandman]

I assessed the damage to the front end after the girlfriend hit another car. It looks like just the plastics and maybe some replaceable support brackets got bent up. There is no point in filing a claim for repair since my deductible is $500. They would only be paying about $15 of the parts cost and nothing needs painted. So, it's better to just buy the parts myself and replace them. I hope whatever bad jujube she got is done now. It's getting ridiculous...

 

[mikkelstuff]

Changed out the Westin passenger side nerf bar on my 2002 Ranger XLT supercab. What a pain! This could have been simple - remove the one 1/2" bolt at each end of the rusted out nerf bar and install the new one. But oh NO! I could not move those bolts using a 3' flex handle with a cheater.

I was into the tire shop for a free tire rotation this morning and ask the guys to hit those bolts with their impact wrench. They got the rear bolts lose on both sides but could not get the front bolts. Then they put the rear bolts back in with their impact wrench - a big mistake.

I ended up taking the front and rear mounting hardware lose to remove the nerf bar which went easy enough. The replacement Westing kit had new mounting hardware so I used that for the front mount. The new rear mount was different and I don't think it fits my truck so had to cut the 1/2" rear bolt with a hacksaw to reuse that rear mount.

I coated all the new bolts with Permatex anti-seize compound which I find to be a great anti-rust goop thought hopefully I'll never have to change these out again.

I was too pooped myself at that point to do the driver's side nerf bar. I'll save that for tomorrow with lessons learned from today.

 

[Snoranger]

I found a little time after work and dinner today to pull the factory plastic “skid plate” and install the steel RCI fuel tank skid plate. I mean, it was only 4 nuts and 5 pounds of mud.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

I found a little time after work and dinner today to pull the factory plastic “skid plate” and install the steel RCI fuel tank skid plate. I mean, it was only 4 nuts and 5 pounds of mud.

View attachment 125392

Looks nice.