Twister 85 B2 Build

[85_Ranger4x4]

I think the reason why our efans run all the time is because of the switches location. Been thinking about it and maybe putting it on the lower rad hose is the solution. If the fluid coming out of the rad is to hot, then the fan will have to kick on. But if not to the temp that activates the switch, it will stay off.

If it stays on top on the coolant neck, it will just sit in hot coolant keeping it on.

But then I add a kinda wussy mechanical fan and it very rarely runs at all...

I do agree we are missing something. I can kinda see my compromised system struggling (4.0 radiator, bunch of tranny coolers, and pusher efan) but you have an OEM 5.0 radiator and a huge OEM puller fan that is probably cooling about as many 5.0 Mustangs at this point as it is 3.0 Tauruses. You shouldn't be having a problem.

 

[dangerranger83]

It cools the fluid off in no time but the switch turns on at 195 off at 185 and my tstat is a 192. That's why I'm going to install a 185 and see what that does.

I can't hear my fan but I don't like how it's always on consuming power and putting more load on my alternator then needed.

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[Twister]

Called flex-a-lite and after being put on hold for 25 min, their tech said i should have a problem with using the adapter and a flex fan. So i might get the adapter and the autozone down the street has a reverse rotation fan i am going to pick up.

That should be, shouldn't have a problem, dumb autocorrect. What is all involved in shoving the radiator under the core support? Am I going to have to cut the core support at all, if so i would rather not ad my core support is pretty much rust free and in really good shape.

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[dangerranger83]

If using the 4.0 rad, I dint think there is any or much cutting.

For the 5.0, their well be cutting.

Best thing is if you do the fans, mount them and find out your clearances. You want the fan as close as you can get it. They say 3/8 of an inch from the rad is good on PowerBlock. With a shroud I don't think it has to be that close.

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[Twister]

If using the 4.0 rad, I dint think there is any or much cutting.

For the 5.0, their well be cutting.

Best thing is if you do the fans, mount them and find out your clearances. You want the fan as close as you can get it. They say 3/8 of an inch from the rad is good on PowerBlock. With a shroud I don't think it has to be that close.

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That's my plan, I have too take a closer look at the radiator and support if its not much work to shove it under there then that would seem like the most logical idea.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

If you want OEM efan dimensions O'Reilly's lists them on their website.

 

[Twister]

Well got some good news and bad news.

Good news: I got the transfer case up and attached to the transmission, what a PITA that was. Took me and my brother 3 hours to get it on the transmission output shaft. I have to get some longer bolts because the rings for spacing it are too thick.

Bad news: In an emergency we had to let the transfer case fall, luckily its pretty sturdy, but on it'd way down it caught the power wire for my fuel pump and it ripped the power wire right out of the pump. I think the pump might be toast


Lastly, 85 what lower radiator hose did you use. I saw you used a flex hose, would you happen to have the part number?

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[dangerranger83]

I will say for mine I had to use an 18 or 18.5 inch rad flex hose. I just measured what length I needed after everything was installed, googled the length, asking with the knowledge of how big the end needed to be for the rad outlet and pump inlet (AutoZone has those measurements for you) and in two days, was good to go.

Part number to mine Matt be in my build thread, I took a picture off the hose and the part number tag it had.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Lastly, 85 what lower radiator hose did you use. I saw you used a flex hose, would you happen to have the part number?

No I don't, it had to be longer because the inlet on the Explorer pump was shorter than my standard pump.

The parts store had it in stock though.

 

[Twister]

OK thanks, guess I'll have to measure it and grab one.

Got the transfer case finish bolted up, got some new grade 8 bolts, its amazing how well this thing fits in there, almost like its suppose to be there. But it looks like my drive line angle might be a bit steep.

Put some tranny fluid in the transmission while I had the shifter out and put the shifter on, it seems a bit to long lol, going to find a shorter one.

Also I am pretty sure my fuel pump is shot it doesn't look like I can open it and reattached it, but rather be out $40 then have a smashed limb

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[dangerranger83]

I like my long shifter, gives it the old school feel that these newer vehicles don't have.

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[Twister]

I like my long shifter, gives it the old school feel that these newer vehicles don't have.

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It is a little out of control, my hand nearly hits the steering wheel when its in second lol

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Ideally you want the rear output to be at the same angle as your rear pinion flange to run smooth.

Looking good though, figured out what you are going to do for the t-case mount yet?

 

[Twister]

Ideally you want the rear output to be at the same angle as your rear pinion flange to run smooth.

Looking good though, figured out what you are going to do for the t-case mount yet?

I'll have to get a pic with a stick for you guys to see the angles.

I don't know yet about the tcase. There are several companies that make them and they range from $80-200. I don't have faith in my skills to something on my own.

This is the one I've been looking at.

http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=106&products_id=732

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[Twister]

Got my fan and adapter today, and they fit

Ive got about 3/4-1" between the fan and the radiator. The fan seem a little low but that was to be expected because of the body lift. Looking through 85's write up for the explorer FEAD, it looks like his is lower as well. I will need to trim my shroud to make it fit on the bottom.