Twister 85 B2 Build

[Twister]

I think that is about what I had for clearance, I will try to remember to measure it for you tonight.

I had qualms about it for the very same reason, I took the gamble and it worked for me.

The slim flexfan can't do it all by itself especially for you that will be running in city traffic. For me post flexfan I rarely hear the efan kick on if the truck is moving.

This is the fan I have, rated at 18.5A. They make the same thing as a puller part number 118.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-119/overview/



My stock 2.9 alternator (65a?) ran my pusher fine, the Explorer alternator runs about 130A.

Everybody goes nuts over the "one wire" alternator, I like having the switching wires so the alternator can run as needed rather than when it is needed and above a certain rpm. We do tons of 6V/12V generator to 12v alternator conversions on tractors and have excellant luck with the later three wire Delco alternators.

On my truck going from the 2.9 alt to the Explorer alt I just had to flip two wires around on the connector. Pretty simiple hookup.

Like 85 said, the explorer alt is a 130amp one so I don't think an electric fan would tax the system all that much. That would be awesome if you could measure that for me, also I couldn't find the fan you said you used in your write up, I've looked on summit and jegs site and found nothing. If I run that kind of setup, what would be the minimum cfm pusher fan I would want to run?

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Like 85 said, the explorer alt is a 130amp one so I don't think an electric fan would tax the system all that much. That would be awesome if you could measure that for me, also I couldn't find the fan you said you used in your write up, I've looked on summit and jegs site and found nothing. If I run that kind of setup, what would be the minimum cfm pusher fan I would want to run?

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http://www.flex-a-lite.com/belt-driven-fans/17-inch-stainless-steel-low-profile-flex-fan-1.html

As near as I can tell it was that one, reverse rotation and only one number off of the one in my write up.

I thought I got it from Summit but they don't show it in my history, Jegs requires the order number and I didn't even bother checking Streetside.

The Flex A Lite one I have is rated 2500CFM. Around town (my town with 4 stoplights) it struggled to keep it cool on its own but it did got the job done. I don't think it would have gotten along with rush hour Omaha traffic very well.

 

[dangerranger83]

2500cfm should be plenty to keep a 5.0 cool, but it's also based on how long the fluid stays on the rad to be cooled and how much it holds.

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[Twister]

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/belt-driven-fans/17-inch-stainless-steel-low-profile-flex-fan-1.html

As near as I can tell it was that one, reverse rotation and only one number off of the one in my write up.

I thought I got it from Summit but they don't show it in my history, Jegs requires the order number and I didn't even bother checking Streetside.

The Flex A Lite one I have is rated 2500CFM. Around town (my town with 4 stoplights) it struggled to keep it cool on its own but it did got the job done. I don't think it would have gotten along with rush hour Omaha traffic very well.

So the pusher alone barely kept it cool, but with the fan and the pusher it did OK? I hope the flex fan will fit.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

So the pusher alone barely kept it cool, but with the fan and the pusher it did OK? I hope the flex fan will fit.

I have to let sit for awhile before the efan kicks on. Worlds better than it was before.

On paper 2500cfm was supposed to be way over recommended even for a pusher, if I didn't keep it moving and cramming cold air down the grille it would start to cook.

It also has two tranny coolers blocking about half the available area to the radiator...

 

[dangerranger83]

My problem is, art last in the summer, is my fan is on ask the time due to the hot coolant sits on the fan temp switch. I need to change the tstat to a cooler one to stop this problem. Only takes 15 seconds at most to cool the fluid in my rad.

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[Twister]

I have to let sit for awhile before the efan kicks on. Worlds better than it was before.

On paper 2500cfm was supposed to be way over recommended even for a pusher, if I didn't keep it moving and cramming cold air down the grille it would start to cook.

It also has two tranny coolers blocking about half the available area to the radiator...

Were you able to get any measurements on that adapter?

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[Twister]

Got the fuel system all done, got the pump wired to a switch in the cab and it finish plumber. Got the exhaust manifolds all bolted up with gaskets. I need get all the gas currently in the tank as I don't think it is any good after 1.5 yrs. I can't get my t case in myself because that SOB is f-ing heavy, so I have to wait till Thursday or Friday for my brother to help me. Really what's holding me back right now is money, it's not easy to buy stuff when you only have $30 in your bank account lol.

Where I mounted switch, don't think the cigerette light worked anyway, I'll prolly wire in a fuel cut off later down the road.

How the fuel system sits in the engine bay.

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[dangerranger83]

Should use a relay setup that turns on when your key is on but not when cranking.

I had my fuel line over my intake till recently. I move it along the fire wall to keep some more of the engine heat off of it.

I understand putting a transfercase in yourself. Somehow I was able to bench press mine into place and thread a few bolts in, but that was an np208.

Also what size carb is that? If its the 1403 what size jets and rods does it have?

Has it really been 1.5 years already? Wish I had that amount of time to do my swap, I only had 3 weeks from when I started to it being back on the road, my goal was a week.

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[Twister]

Should use a relay setup that turns on when your key is on but not when cranking.

I had my fuel line over my intake till recently. I move it along the fire wall to keep some more of the engine heat off of it.

I understand putting a transfercase in yourself. Somehow I was able to bench press mine into place and thread a few bolts in, but that was an np208.

Also what size carb is that? If its the 1403 what size jets and rods does it have?

Has it really been 1.5 years already? Wish I had that amount of time to do my swap, I only had 3 weeks from when I started to it being back on the road, my goal was a week.

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The relay setup is a good idea, I'll have to look into that. Currently it is wired to a switched 12v. The fuel line across intake isn't permanent, and I just remember I should prolly get a fuel pressure regulator.

I was able to put the bw4406 in myself but the np205 is to damn heavy to put in myself especially under a car.

About all I know about the carb is its a 1406, so I think 600 cfm. From what I've read its too much for a boring old 302, but idk about the jets.

I haven't been doing the swap for 1.5 years, just how long the poor thing has been out of commission

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[dangerranger83]

The 85 mustang with the 30w came with a 600 com Holley from the factory.

I hear 600cfm is to much but mine handled it just fine but the carb needed some TCL that I couldn't give it, but now lives another life down south on top of a mustang.

Also about the efan, a shroud well make a world a difference. If the fan is right up on the rad and only able to cool what's directly in front of it, it won't be nearly as efficient as it drawing air from more surface area.

I related and centred my fan better on my rad and it now clears the water pump pulley, before it would hit it due to only a half inch of clearance. Why it took me so long to move it I'm not too sure.

Heres a link to a budget way to use a Taurus fan setup and use both of the speed settings. The pictures have been deleted though, they were up not to long ago.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028

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[Twister]

The 85 mustang with the 30w came with a 600 com Holley from the factory.

I hear 600cfm is to much but mine handled it just fine but the carb needed some TCL that I couldn't give it, but now lives another life down south on top of a mustang.

Also about the efan, a shroud well make a world a difference. If the fan is right up on the rad and only able to cool what's directly in front of it, it won't be nearly as efficient as it drawing air from more surface area.

I related and centred my fan better on my rad and it now clears the water pump pulley, before it would hit it due to only a half inch of clearance. Why it took me so long to move it I'm not too sure.

Heres a link to a budget way to use a Taurus fan setup and use both of the speed settings. The pictures have been deleted though, they were up not to long ago.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028

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I am hoping to be able to run the flex fan, i just need to find or call flex-a-lite to get the dimensions on their little thread on adapter. I wish i could run the Taurus fan, but the clearance just isn't there, and it sucks because i have one just sitting in my garage. If i can run the flex fan, i will probably get a pusher fan to help aid in cooling.

 

[Twister]

I am hoping to be able to run the flex fan, i just need to find or call flex-a-lite to get the dimensions on their little thread on adapter. I wish i could run the Taurus fan, but the clearance just isn't there, and it sucks because i have one just sitting in my garage. If i can run the flex fan, i will probably get a pusher fan to help aid in cooling.

Called flex-a-lite and after being put on hold for 25 min, their tech said i should have a problem with using the adapter and a flex fan. So i might get the adapter and the autozone down the street has a reverse rotation fan i am going to pick up.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Were you able to get any measurements on that adapter?

It is 1-3/4" from the face of the water pump pulley (the same face the bolts hold it to the water pump) to the backside of the fan. There is a little nub that centers the fan that sticks out a little more.

I have roughly 3-3/8" from the face of the water pump pulley to the radiator.

With your 2-1/4" it sounds a little tight to me. You may have to tuck the radiator which would probably be better in the long run anyway. If you got another couple inches out of it you could run a real mechanical fan or a big puller and be done with it.

I played with 190, 180, and 160 stats trying to get it so the efan wouldn't run all the time in the summer... didn't make a bit of difference. Once they are open they are open.

 

[dangerranger83]

I think the reason why our efans run all the time is because of the switches location. Been thinking about it and maybe putting it on the lower rad hose is the solution. If the fluid coming out of the rad is to hot, then the fan will have to kick on. But if not to the temp that activates the switch, it will stay off.

If it stays on top on the coolant neck, it will just sit in hot coolant keeping it on.

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