Towing Or Hauling, What's Harder On Drivetrain?

[bobbywalter]

That's with 8 pack leafs.



5 pack 2k is top

 

[wildbill23c]

I got the truck to use as a daily driver when needed and do work around the property and for hauling when needed. Not afraid to put it to work. That's what it was made for, contrary to so many now using full size 4x4 crew cab trucks as nothing more than a family sedan LOL.

So as I thought really nothing too damaging either way as long as its done properly and safely. I'd think pulling a load on a trailer though would of course add more weight and more of a risk in something going wrong. I've done a lot of trailer towing, that don't bother me, its the idiots on the road that are the problem, cutting you off, pulling out in front of you, slamming on their brakes, etc.

I think the most I'd pull behind my Bronco 2 or the Ranger would be maybe one of the little 4' x 8' trailer kits you see at Harbor Freight and other places....haven't checked to see what Tractor Supply carries I'm sure something relatively close in size to that.

Wasn't a load of course, but had to pickup a 2x6 a couple weeks ago, the guy goes out and gets it and comes back with one of those red flags to put on the end of it. I guess when I said Ranger he figured one of those new ones with the useless truck bed, or one that had the 5 or 6 foot bed in the older styles....I told him he won't need the flag, he says oh yeah it'll hang out more than 2 feet....I said well its an 8' 2x6 and the truck has a 7 foot bed so....he said they had a 7 foot bed, I said it was optional, but yes, back when they made usable truck beds LOL.

The more I do around the house and more projects I do the more I enjoy having a small pickup around again...sure missed (still miss) my 84 Ranger though. You don't realize how useful a truck is until you no longer have one.

 

[wildbill23c]

That's mainly the point I was trying to make, the Ranger platform is fairly stout (why I bought the '97 for a daily driver), you aren't going to wear it out doing that here and there, it's what it was meant for.

Rear axle weight ratings are weight on the axle I believe, so that wouldn't include the weight of the axle and tires, but on a 2wd that's maybe 300lb...

So the GAWR of 2017lbs takes into account the weight that's on the axle from the pickup itself, and whatever you toss in the bed? Can't be too much weight back there from the truck given the lack of traction it has in bad weather, that long bed I guess makes more difference than I would have thought.

So a GAWR of 2017lbs, and say there's 400lbs of truck on the axle that means a payload capacity of about 1600lbs? Gotta be more than 400lbs back there, I don't think it would haul 1600lbs, at least not comfortably and not without hitting the bump stops.

 

[1990RangerinSK]

Afterthought: a couple guys said you have the extra weight of the trailer. Not exactly. The road now has the weight of the trailer, not you’re truck. The truck has the much smaller (but more dynamic) loSd of pulling the trailer. Again, pulling smartly, there’s no comparison.

Well, yes, you do have the extra weight.

1. Doesn't the trailer count in with GVWR?
2. Doesn't the tongue weight count with GAWR?
3. You have to get the trailer weight rolling
4. You have to STOP the trailer weight.

 

[Curious Hound]

Exactly. Using the trailer, you reduce load on the trucks suspension. But you increase load on the drivetrain because you not only have the load, but also the mass of the trailer that your drivetrain has to accelerate and decelerate.

 

[bobbywalter]

The 5 pack is 1750 per spring.

My big trailer weighs 3 k rates 10k....little one 700....and it's only rated to 1900.


I hate towing.

 

[sgtsandman]

I may be thinking incorrectly on this but I would think towing would be harder than hauling. Maybe not on the drivetrain specifically but on the vehicle for sure. You have the trailer trying to push the vehicle when going down hill, hold the vehicle back like an anchor when going up hill, and pulling the rear of the vehicle to the side when turning. The up and down hill parts will more directly affect the drivetrain than the turning will. With hauling, the load is in the vehicle and while it still will effect the drivetrain, it is less dynamic that towing the same load in a trailer.

I do both, it just depends on which format works best for the particular load. So, I really don't have a preference either way. Sometimes towing is easier. For example, when I'm hauling the camping equipment. It's easier to load in the trailer since I've set everything to fit in the trailer. Loading the same stuff in the truck is a not as user friendly since it is setup for a 4X8X2 flat sided box. Something neither truck has not would a full size truck and the truck bed sits higher. Then there are other things like retaining wall block that I find it much more preferable to load in the truck. The same when doing a scrap metal run. It just depends on what is being hauled.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

So the GAWR of 2017lbs takes into account the weight that's on the axle from the pickup itself, and whatever you toss in the bed? Can't be too much weight back there from the truck given the lack of traction it has in bad weather, that long bed I guess makes more difference than I would have thought.

So a GAWR of 2017lbs, and say there's 400lbs of truck on the axle that means a payload capacity of about 1600lbs? Gotta be more than 400lbs back there, I don't think it would haul 1600lbs, at least not comfortably and not without hitting the bump stops.

There was a camper package available on the first gens that bumped payload up to almost 1800lbs...

Well, yes, you do have the extra weight.

1. Doesn't the trailer count in with GVWR? No, that is Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating
2. Doesn't the tongue weight count with GAWR? Yes
3. You have to get the trailer weight rolling
4. You have to STOP the trailer weight.

I may be thinking incorrectly on this but I would think towing would be harder than hauling. Maybe not on the drivetrain specifically but on the vehicle for sure. You have the trailer trying to push the vehicle when going down hill, hold the vehicle back like an anchor when going up hill, and pulling the rear of the vehicle to the side when turning. The up and down hill parts will more directly affect the drivetrain than the turning will. With hauling, the load is in the vehicle and while it still will effect the drivetrain, it is less dynamic that towing the same load in a trailer.

It isn't that cut and dry either.

You can drastically alter how hard a trailer pulls by how you put your load on it. Too much weight too far forward will make it pull much harder than balanced correctly. I have done that to myself hauling my tractors. "Its the same stupid tractor why does it pull so hard today" Go out and walk around... ah, its a little farther forward than normal.

So by that theory a load properly loaded on a trailer should go down the road easier than having it all on the truck.

I don't know, generally I run out of volume before I run out of capacity for payload.

If nothing else above normal tongue weight having it on a trailer will reduce strain on the axle/rear suspension/frame as it doesn't have to support the entire weight of the cargo. And yes with a trailer you have more to stop but if you have trailer brakes you have more to stop it with too.

My vote is trailer is easier on the truck as you approach (and exceed) GVWR weight levels.

 

[racsan]

..... and if your using a box trailer you have “frontal area” to figure in. My 6x10 haulmark is only 1,000 pounds empty but its like pulling a parachute behind you. empty or loaded milage drops to 12. And mine is even a V-nose. My only open trailer right now is one I made from a ranger, still has the truck axle so theres the resistance of the gear oil churning with the extra ring & pinion. Its still better than dragging my box trailer though.

 

[Dirtman]

I farted on your car.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I put 27 bundles of asphalt shingles in the bed of rusty #1 one time.

87/2.9/5sp/3.45/2wd.

7 or 800lbs i wouldnt even blink an eye.

 

[don4331]

So the GAWR of 2017lbs takes into account the weight that's on the axle from the pickup itself, and whatever you toss in the bed? Can't be too much weight back there from the truck given the lack of traction it has in bad weather, that long bed I guess makes more difference than I would have thought.

So a GAWR of 2017lbs, and say there's 400lbs of truck on the axle that means a payload capacity of about 1600lbs? Gotta be more than 400lbs back there, I don't think it would haul 1600lbs, at least not comfortably and not without hitting the bump stops.

I can't give you exact weight for your truck, but from my '83 brochures, the curb weights for a RCLB 2.0/manual/6.75" are 1,534 lbs front/1,025 lbs rear = 2,559 lbs total. So, your rated rear capacity is just under 1,000 lbs. And the 1st thing you need to remove from that is your weight - in my case, it would be ~90 lbs, leaving me with only ~900 lbs on rear.

You haven't given us front GAWR or GVWR, so I'll switch to my daughter's 4th gen RCSBs: the curb weights are 1,872 lbs front/1,292 lbs rear =3,164 lbs total GAWR are 2,350 lbs front/2,250 lbs rear, GVWR of 4,420 lbs. So, her truck has rated capacity of ~478 lbs front, ~958 lbs rear, 1,256 lbs total (very close to the brochure 1,260 lbs payload) - after I climb in, the numbers drop to ~350 lbs front/870 lbs rear/1,035 lbs total.

So, when I load the box with dirt I make sure to fill the front of the box right up to the rails, while leaving unfilled near tailgate - I need to get as at least 150 lbs on front axle or I hit rear GAWR before I've loaded the whole 1,000 lbs.

But wait a moment - my other daughter has basically the exact some truck- trucks are even both red, they are that similar. But her truck has GAWR are 2,300 lbs front/2,750 lbs rear, GVWR of 4,740 lbs. The difference - Thing 2's truck has HDPP - so, has 3 leaf springs instead of 2 leaf ones and 225/70R15s instead of 235/60R15s tires.

Back to your truck - the actual axle is probably rated for 2,750 lbs (assuming you don't have a 6.75", in which case your axle is rated 2,200 lbs). But based on the magic combination of springs, tires and expected curb weight, Ford rated it lower. And unfortunately, there is not legal way to say, "I have installed 3 leaf springs and 225/70R15 tires on Thing 1's truck, so it should have rear GAWR of 2,750lbs." If fact, I will have lost rated payload capacity as 3 leaf springs are heavier as are the tires. But whether hauling or towing, you are significantly below the limits of the truck.

I find towing a trailer to be more convenient in a lot of cases: It's a PIA to load the jet ski in/out of the truck bed, same for the snowmobile. Filling HF style 4x8 trailer with dirt, means I can park it beside the house and slowly unload it into wheelbarrow, rather than dump it on driveway and load from ground into the wheelbarrow. I also, find the Ranger's brakes sketchy at best of time - daughter's Rangers have 10-1/4" fronts/9" rear. If load is over 750 lbs, a trailer with well set up brakes actually stops faster than hauling the load.

 

[sgtsandman]

It isn't that cut and dry either.

You can drastically alter how hard a trailer pulls by how you put your load on it. Too much weight too far forward will make it pull much harder than balanced correctly. I have done that to myself hauling my tractors. "Its the same stupid tractor why does it pull so hard today" Go out and walk around... ah, its a little farther forward than normal.

So by that theory a load properly loaded on a trailer should go down the road easier than having it all on the truck.

I don't know, generally I run out of volume before I run out of capacity for payload.

If nothing else above normal tongue weight having it on a trailer will reduce strain on the axle/rear suspension/frame as it doesn't have to support the entire weight of the cargo. And yes with a trailer you have more to stop but if you have trailer brakes you have more to stop it with too.

My vote is trailer is easier on the truck as you approach (and exceed) GVWR weight levels.

I have noticed that when I was reconfiguring the load on the trailer after the rebuild and having a much more substantial tongue box on the trailer. The first go around was way too tongue heavy and the CR-V did not like it. It got the job done but it wasn't happy about it. The next time was much better once I got the tongue weight between the recommended 10%-15%. Marking the containers with weights so I knew what weighed what helped greatly. The trucks are less picky but they aren't near maximum tow weight like I was with the CR-V either.

 

[sgtsandman]

..... and if your using a box trailer you have “frontal area” to figure in. My 6x10 haulmark is only 1,000 pounds empty but its like pulling a parachute behind you. empty or loaded milage drops to 12. And mine is even a V-nose. My only open trailer right now is one I made from a ranger, still has the truck axle so theres the resistance of the gear oil churning with the extra ring & pinion. Its still better than dragging my box trailer though.

An open box trailer has a similar effect. There is a very noticeable difference in how my utility trailer pulls when it's covered and uncovered with an empty trailer. It feels like you are dragging an anchor.

 

[Rick W]

Understood. The original question was “wear and tear” on the truck. Loading in the bed stresses everything. Loading on the trailer and operating within the smart capabilities of the engine, trans, suspension, etc. stresses almost nothing.

I’m not talking about the “500#” load. I can do the with my car. I’m talking about a heavy load at the limit or beyond of the truck’s published (conservative) load capacity.

On the gross weight, that pretty much means gravity/down force, the “weight.” In that line of thinking, only the tongue weight adds to the gross of the truck. Now, out of the other side of my mouth, that’s an over-simplification. At static, yes, weight=mass, and my first point is correct. Once you start moving, the “weight” is actually “mass,” and subject to dynamic force in every direction, not just down, like going around a corner fast & dumping the load over the side. You can load up the trailer, and if you’re cautious, pull it anywhere. Center of gravity is much lower on trailer and truck. On the truck, the full force of all the dynamics is on the truck.

My other thought is to simply just check the “payload” rated capacity vs the Rated “towing” capacity.

I’ll never advise or support unsafe, unqualified operation. Safety first, always. But the ratings of the vehicles are “safe” numbers set by lawyers worrying about liability.
With all humility, my experience/observations are from real world gray hair along the way. You can get a lot more out of them than the rated numbers.

Mt 2 cents.....