Towing Or Hauling, What's Harder On Drivetrain?

[wildbill23c]

I can't give you exact weight for your truck, but from my '83 brochures, the curb weights for a RCLB 2.0/manual/6.75" are 1,534 lbs front/1,025 lbs rear = 2,559 lbs total. So, your rated rear capacity is just under 1,000 lbs. And the 1st thing you need to remove from that is your weight - in my case, it would be ~90 lbs, leaving me with only ~900 lbs on rear.

You haven't given us front GAWR or GVWR, so I'll switch to my daughter's 4th gen RCSBs: the curb weights are 1,872 lbs front/1,292 lbs rear =3,164 lbs total GAWR are 2,350 lbs front/2,250 lbs rear, GVWR of 4,420 lbs. So, her truck has rated capacity of ~478 lbs front, ~958 lbs rear, 1,256 lbs total (very close to the brochure 1,260 lbs payload) - after I climb in, the numbers drop to ~350 lbs front/870 lbs rear/1,035 lbs total.

So, when I load the box with dirt I make sure to fill the front of the box right up to the rails, while leaving unfilled near tailgate - I need to get as at least 150 lbs on front axle or I hit rear GAWR before I've loaded the whole 1,000 lbs.

But wait a moment - my other daughter has basically the exact some truck- trucks are even both red, they are that similar. But her truck has GAWR are 2,300 lbs front/2,750 lbs rear, GVWR of 4,740 lbs. The difference - Thing 2's truck has HDPP - so, has 3 leaf springs instead of 2 leaf ones and 225/70R15s instead of 235/60R15s tires.

Back to your truck - the actual axle is probably rated for 2,750 lbs (assuming you don't have a 6.75", in which case your axle is rated 2,200 lbs). But based on the magic combination of springs, tires and expected curb weight, Ford rated it lower. And unfortunately, there is not legal way to say, "I have installed 3 leaf springs and 225/70R15 tires on Thing 1's truck, so it should have rear GAWR of 2,750lbs." If fact, I will have lost rated payload capacity as 3 leaf springs are heavier as are the tires. But whether hauling or towing, you are significantly below the limits of the truck.

I find towing a trailer to be more convenient in a lot of cases: It's a PIA to load the jet ski in/out of the truck bed, same for the snowmobile. Filling HF style 4x8 trailer with dirt, means I can park it beside the house and slowly unload it into wheelbarrow, rather than dump it on driveway and load from ground into the wheelbarrow. I also, find the Ranger's brakes sketchy at best of time - daughter's Rangers have 10-1/4" fronts/9" rear. If load is over 750 lbs, a trailer with well set up brakes actually stops faster than hauling the load.

I assume the door sticker would be of help.

 

[Rick W]

Another afterthought: a hitch vs weight-equalizing hitch.

You’ve talked about a “cheap“ hitch vs a “good“ hitch. Bumper hitches are for playing. Pulling an empty trailer or jet ski. A frame-mounted receiver hitch is better/safer, more stout. But they both do the same thing: they just pull/drag the trailer.

a weight-equalizing hitch is a preloaded hitch that contacts the trailer in 3 places, not just the ball. When you hook it up, you actually have to jack up the ball point, and then tighten the equalizing arms. When you let it down, This has the effect of bowing up the truck trailer combination in the middle, literally putting more load on the FRONT axle of the truck. As you load the trailer, the load is much better distributed between the three road points: trailer axle(s), rear truck axle, and front truck axle.

It provides a much better ride, and can eliminate the front axle/steering getting “light” when going over bumps.

Note, while an equalizing hitch is more forgiving, it’s also easier to load up wrong since the trailer level is “set.” Always load correctly.

Another thought is that it is not an “either/or” decision. A heavy trailer behind an empty truck can push the rear end out (jack knife) in a curve or when braking. The more you load the trailer, even well balanced, the more you should load into the bed. You want enough in the bed to “plant” the rear tires, downforce, to maintain good traction,

safety/correctly loading is the key, regardless of the equipment.

Costs:? A Class III frame hitch is a out $125 plus the ball and tongue, maybe $20. It bolts on where the rear bumper bolts on. Important: Don’t use the bumper bolts, use the “hitch” bolts and nuts, they’re stronger and hard steel. They’re much stronger, harder to strip or snap. Equally important is to use the little rectangular backing plates on the other side of the frame flange than the hitch. Bumper bolts can strip or snap. Hard bolts can cut through the frame like a can opener. The backing plates distribute that tearing energy (so you flip the truck before you loose the trailer). It’s a common misconception that the nuts and bolts take the load. Actually, the fricition between the various plates and flanges create the strength. Tightening the bolts to the correct torque creates that friction.

A weight-equalizer hitch is about $250-300. NEVER use an equalizer hitch with a bumper ball unless you’re looking for an easy way to remove that bumper and free the trailer!!!

you can get a Class III ranger hitch at your local pull-a-part scrap yard for $30. Make sure you grab all the bolts, nuts, and backing plates. They don’t wear out, but beware of rear-end wrecks. The hitch is hard steel, prone to cracking if distorted. The balls & receivers are dirt cheap ($10 at Lowe’s right now) or $10-15 on Craigslist.

Use an offset “drop” hitch to get the truck level and the trailer levelDon’t pull the trailer at an up-angle or down-angle, always pull level.

it’s very hard to find a used equalizer hitch in the scrap yard. And, they’re complex, I would never mix parts between brands. You can find them on Craigslist for $100-150.

my 2 cents. (Okay, maybe 4 or 6 cents)...

hope it helps

 

[wildbill23c]

Another afterthought: a hitch vs weight-equalizing hitch.

You’ve talked about a “cheap“ hitch vs a “good“ hitch. Bumper hitches are for playing. Pulling an empty trailer or jet ski. A frame-mounted receiver hitch is better/safer, more stout. But they both do the same thing: they just pull/drag the trailer.

a weight-equalizing hitch is a preloaded hitch that contacts the trailer in 3 places, not just the ball. When you hook it up, you actually have to jack up the ball point, and then tighten the equalizing arms. When you let it down, This has the effect of bowing up the truck trailer combination in the middle, literally putting more load on the FRONT axle of the truck. As you load the trailer, the load is much better distributed between the three road points: trailer axle(s), rear truck axle, and front truck axle.

It provides a much better ride, and can eliminate the front axle/steering getting “light” when going over bumps.

Note, while an equalizing hitch is more forgiving, it’s also easier to load up wrong since the trailer level is “set.” Always load correctly.

Another thought is that it is not an “either/or” decision. A heavy trailer behind an empty truck can push the rear end out (jack knife) in a curve or when braking. The more you load the trailer, even well balanced, the more you should load into the bed. You want enough in the bed to “plant” the rear tires, downforce, to maintain good traction,

safety/correctly loading is the key, regardless of the equipment.

Costs:? A Class III frame hitch is a out $125 plus the ball and tongue, maybe $20. It bolts on where the rear bumper bolts on. Important: Don’t use the bumper bolts, use the “hitch” bolts and nuts, they’re stronger and hard steel. They’re much stronger, harder to strip or snap. Equally important is to use the little rectangular backing plates on the other side of the frame flange than the hitch. Bumper bolts can strip or snap. Hard bolts can cut through the frame like a can opener. The backing plates distribute that tearing energy (so you flip the truck before you loose the trailer). It’s a common misconception that the nuts and bolts take the load. Actually, the fricition between the various plates and flanges create the strength. Tightening the bolts to the correct torque creates that friction.

A weight-equalizer hitch is about $250-300. NEVER use an equalizer hitch with a bumper ball unless you’re looking for an easy way to remove that bumper and free the trailer!!!

you can get a Class III ranger hitch at your local pull-a-part scrap yard for $30. Make sure you grab all the bolts, nuts, and backing plates. They don’t wear out, but beware of rear-end wrecks. The hitch is hard steel, prone to cracking if distorted. The balls & receivers are dirt cheap ($10 at Lowe’s right now) or $10-15 on Craigslist.

Use an offset “drop” hitch to get the truck level and the trailer levelDon’t pull the trailer at an up-angle or down-angle, always pull level.

it’s very hard to find a used equalizer hitch in the scrap yard. And, they’re complex, I would never mix parts between brands. You can find them on Craigslist for $100-150.

my 2 cents. (Okay, maybe 4 or 6 cents)...

hope it helps

I don't have a receiver hitch on the Ranger yet, been waiting to find one at the Pick A Part, I paid $25 for the one I got for my Bronco 2 last year. All the receiver hitches I've ever had bolt to the frame and have nothing to do with the rear bumper, or its mounting location, they have their own mounting points....weird though the Ranger's frame is already drilled for a hitch. I had to drill the holes for the hitch on my Bronco 2, figured that would have been done at the factory, but must have skipped that line LOL.

I don't think I need to worry about an equalizer hitch, not planning on towing that heavy well IDK, if I can find a small enough camp trailer I probably better grab an equalizer hitch though. I plan on getting a camper shell for the truck mostly for winter to keep stuff dry that I need to pickup and haul during bad weather, which may help a bit in traction too, since my truck is a long bed and a 4x2, there's not much weight back there for traction LOL. Throw some sand bags in the back is my go-to for now though till I can find a 7' camper shell then I'll work on some other traction ideas I guess LOL.

 

[sgtsandman]

The most I plan on towing is 2,000# after I upgrade the suspension on the trailer. A 2,000# axle was an option for my trailer when I bought the kit bit opted not to get it then.

The plan is to get Timberen independent suspension axles and install surge brakes on it while I’m at it be better trail towing. It will never be a full on, off road trailer but I do want to get it a good as it can be with out replacing the entire frame. Of course, something better than the standard coupler setup is a need too. Pintle hitches are noisy and annoying. There is another maker that makes a hitch that does the same thing at a pintle bit with out the noise. Lock and load or something along those lines. I have a t bookmark at home.

 

[Rick W]

A couple more thoughts.

Mine is also an 87, but 4x4 short bed. I’ve been trying to find the rated truck payload capacity and the rated towing capacity in any kind of an official document from Ford or such, with no luck. If I find a source, i’ll copy you.

I just got my truck, and I’m waiting to see if I can find an inexpensive 2.9 to replace my busted one, but I plan on making a matching trailer out of a ranger bed on a home made frame. Before I even bought this Ranger, I had all the parts and axles in the garage except for the bed. Over the many years, I have made many small trailers, a couple of 16 foot double axle car haulers for the hobby, and one triple axle 20 foot equipment trailer for the business, although I built it personally as a hobby.

Let me also offer, with modesty, that I have been playing with trailers and trucks and loads all my life, partly for the hobby interest, but I have also run small truck fleets in business i’ve owned.

in my current research, I have found several references where a ranger will pull a 7500 pound trailer (if set up right). These references either don’t mention the year at all, or, they talk about in 2019 or 2020. I don’t think our little Rangers will pull that much. I found a lot of non-official sources that say 2000 pounds, but I can pull 2000 pounds just about with my motorcycle.

In reviewing the class III receiver hitch information for the first series rangers, the hitches are rated at 4000 pounds on average, with a 400 pound tongue weight. I don’t think they would make a vehicle specific hitch, if the vehicle couldn’t hold that much. Those ratings are probably high, just like the truck ratings are low, but I’m thinking 3 or 4000 pounds could be pulled by our little trucks based on my experience, not that I’m recommending anybody do that without properly checking it out.

on surge breaks, they’re ok for traffic, but if you’re going off road, there’s a good probability that they could rock you back-and-forth front to back as you go over bumps and humps. Electric brakes might have two advantages for you. First, they won’t have this surging like you’d get from surge breaks, and second, if one side were to go out, you still have the other side. Also, third of the couple options, you can adjust the stop RATE from the cab as you’re moving. Make it stiff off road, and then relax it for the highway. Surge brakes tend to be all or nothing. If you’re off road with a trailer, I assume you’re not going 100 miles an hour, so a failure on the brake on the trailer on one side should not make you particularly Skid prone or unbalanced, but be careful when you get on the road to go home.

pintle hitches are really for large trucks and large loads. Most of the big pintle hitches have a ring on the truck or on the trailer that can spin. The purpose is that if one or the other turns over, it won’t turn over the other half.

I am not trying to sell you anything, but coincidentally right now I have Two 2” inch slide lock hitches, and I have one of the 2 inch hitches just like the cheap ones at Home Depot, except this is more heavy duty than I’ve ever seen, and if you flip it over it has a mini shock absorber, maybe an 1 1/2“ x 6“, to take the shock out of the start and stops. I had heard about them, but never seen one, and got this in a batch of parts I bought a week or two ago. If you’re anywhere near Atlanta, I’ll make you a hell of a deal, but again I’m not trying to make any money here. I’ll send you pictures in the next day or so, so you know what I’m talking about.

if you already have your trailer equipment, ignore the next part. Someone was talking about five leafs versus eight leaf springs. Unless I have a tiny trailer, I like to use the 3500 pound axles which take the 1750 springs on each side. If it’s a lighter trailer, I just take one of the leafs out of the springs. You have to know what you’re doing to do this so you don’t create a situation that will break a spring. If you’re considering Offroad, the 3500 pound axles are incredibly stout and forgiving. It’s a very simple thing to either buy the shanks, and make an actual width to your own liking, or to take an existing 3500 pound axle (like a mobile home axle) and cut it in the middle and make it shorter or longer. If you cut the axle in the middle, when you welded back together, it’s not enough to weld around the circumference of the axle. You should take a small piece of thick angle iron, maybe one by one by 3/8, and strap the world for about 4 inches on either side on the top and on the bottom. This restores the integrity of the axle.

as you can probably tell, I love this stuff, but I have to get up in the morning at least some office space or there’s nothing to pay for the hobby. Strange times with the virus and such. When you get ready to do your trailer, if I can be so bold, I’d be happy to chat with you on pros and cons of different things. Again, I love it, I’m not trying to be bossy.

Sweet dreams, enough fun for today.

 

[Rick W]

& I’ll bet the frames are ore-drilled more and more in cooperation between the truck and the hitch people, because of the lawyers and lawsuits....

 

[sgtsandman]

@Rick W

This is the hitch I was talking about here: https://locknroll.com/

It is rated for 11,000 pounds, gives the articulation needed to not worry about breaking the coupler or snapping the tow ball off.

The Timberen axles I'm wanting to get are 2,000# rated but made with 3,500# spindles and spindle bearings.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Axles/Timbren/ASR2KHDS01.html

The reason for the surge brakes is because of Search and Rescue and not knowing who will be pulling the trailer. Equipping the trailer with electric brakes would take brakes away from someone not equipped to use them. If it was just my trucks, picking electric wouldn't be a problem. The size of the trailer is also on purpose. Small enough for most vehicles to be able to pull and not be a major hindrance on fire roads and trails but big enough to have a decent payload for gear and equipment.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

you can get a Class III ranger hitch at your local pull-a-part scrap yard for $30. Make sure you grab all the bolts, nuts, and backing plates. They don’t wear out, but beware of rear-end wrecks. The hitch is hard steel, prone to cracking if distorted. The balls & receivers are dirt cheap ($10 at Lowe’s right now) or $10-15 on Craigslist.

Receivers/balls are cheap at the JY too.

Watch out on used hitches though, very common to find receivers seized in them at the JY and if it takes you 3 days to get the receiver beat out it might be less stressful to either keep looking or just buy new.

 

[racsan]

Ive seen used receiver hitches badly rusted from the inside out, unless its a nearly new receiver hitch at a j/y , I would just buy new. Its money well spent. Plus new hitches generally come with the hardware youll need.

 

[sgtsandman]

Watch out on used hitches though, very common to find receivers seized in them at the JY and if it takes you 3 days to get the receiver beat out it might be less stressful to either keep looking or just buy new.

One good reason to not leave the draw bar in the hitch all the time. Also, if you don't tow often, I've found that it is a good idea the run a draw bar in the receiver on occasion to keep the tube clear or you might have issues getting the bar in when it comes time to tow.

 

[Rick W]

Ditto on receiver rust. I have a “bottle brush” sort of that I use to put rustoleum inside the hitch after I wire brush it with a hand brush about once a year....

way over due right now :-(...

 

[Rick W]

& ditto on the used trailer balls. I bought a $5-6 trailer ball wrench at Lowe’s and brought it and a pipe wrench to the JY and got 6 balls for $10, all different sizes, so, prepared for anything. I also spray them satin black or silver after use so they don’t make Big Red look bad!

 

[wildbill23c]

& ditto on the used trailer balls. I bought a $5-6 trailer ball wrench at Lowe’s and brought it and a pipe wrench to the JY and got 6 balls for $10, all different sizes, so, prepared for anything. I also spray them satin black or silver after use so they don’t make Big Red look bad!

I just have a hitch that has 3 balls and the recovery hook on it, just flip the hitch to the ball size I need. Changing trailer balls is so 80's LOL.

Most of the time a 2" ball is required unless you get up into RV's and large cargo and flat bed trailers. Some of the rental yards still use 1-7/8" balls, but last time I rented one it had a 2" coupler on it I was surprised. So just having to hitches one with a 2" and one with a 1-7/8" has been all I've needed. I have an equalizer hitch with the 2-5/16" ball on it if I ever pull an RV anywhere (not very likely anymore since I no longer have a truck for that).

If you are pulling hitches at a pick a part and need to beat the hitch out of the receiver its time to walk away LOL. Not worth the time at that point. Best thing is to find a receiver without a hitch in it if you want a receiver. Hitches, just drive slowly along the side of the road, I find them all the time because people forget to put the pin in them and they rattle out going down the highway. I found a B&W 2 ball hitch last year on a dirt road going to a camping spot, thing weighed about 20 pounds, got $9 in aluminum scrap for it.

 

[Curious Hound]

. Hitches, just drive slowly along the side of the road, I find them all the time because people forget to put the pin in them and they rattle out going down the highway.

Last time i found one that way, it still had the trailer attached, decelerating wildly in the fast lane right in front of me while the tow vehicle sped away on I-85 during the morning rush hour.

 

[wildbill23c]

Last time i found one that way, it still had the trailer attached, decelerating wildly in the fast lane right in front of me while the tow vehicle sped away on I-85 during the morning rush hour.

If you find a hitch and the trailer is still attached you got a bonus prize LOL.