To all of you undertaking in a 302 swap

[Iron Ranger]

This is for everyone out there undertaking a 302 swap. If you watch Trucks, Extreme 4x4, Horsepower TV, etc., don't buy into the whole "the bolts came loose with penetrating oil and an impact" crap. How they tear down stuff is way to easy and makes it look a little too easy.

Every bolt that I have tried to loosen off my rig has either snaped or stripped out, and thats how it is on everything you work on.

The newer Rangers in swaps shouldn't have a big problem with this ordeal, but rangers from 85'-95'ish have bolts that have rusted over for sometime now.

I am in the middle of redoing the sheet metal around the front body mounts. They are the worst part of the truck. No one told me about it, but thats what makes this all fun and enjoyable to do. Put a little of me into something that I am going own for a very long time.

Long story short, whatever money, time and space you have saved up for a big project like this, double it.

Trust me, something always goes wrong that you never expected..............

 

[ttfiveohranger]

I had an 86 ranger that I didn't have much problem with bolts coming out.. cept the tstat housing bolts.. It depends on the vehicle and what it has been through and where it was kept.. I've owned over 6 rangers and have had good luck loosening bolts

 

[racinranger]

using a wrench vs. an impact has a big diff. i've broken stuff off with a 4 foot breaker that i know a good hammering 1/2 impact woulda ripped out. the hammering action and the force concentrated towards the center and not down and center like a breaker bar makes a huge difference. i havent met a bolt my IR titanium hasnt ripped out or blown appart

 

[baddad457]

Long story short, whatever money, time and space you have saved up for a big project like this, double it.

Trust me, something always goes wrong that you never expected..............

I've given just that advice for years now here in regards to doing a swap. I live by Murphy's Law. "If something can go wrong, it will"

 

[BLOODBANE]

+1. A Big +1

 

[kemicalburns]

liquid wrench and some heat have always worked well for myself. then again i live out west and rust isnt to much of an issue here

 

[bikerboy]

i havent met a bolt my IR titanium hasnt ripped out or blown appart

X2!!! I love my air gun. everyone at the shope uses it when their Snap-on guns won't break a bolt loose. They get mine and it breaks it looses without trying.

 

[therieldeal]

This is my recommendation... and trust me, living in new england I have a fair bit of experience with rusty bolts lol.

If a bolt is stuck, or you expect it to be stuck... using a wrench, not an impact gun, tighten it slightly... just enough to break it loose. Then you can use your impact/ratchet/whatever to take it out. Someone told me about this ~2 years ago, and it seems to have greatly reduced the number of broken bolts I've had to deal with.

 

[Capt Jay]

If the bolt breaks it needed to be replaced anyway.

When I've done my trucks I replaced a majority of the bolts with grade 5 or 8 depending on the location. It's not that much more, but the piece of mind is priceless.

Have fun. I'll probably be at the Gilbert OHV park in two weekend.

 

[wade]

I learned from my "Navy days" about nuts and bolts in a corrosive environment. Metals in a marine environment just seem to produce corrosion for some natural reason. Especially, if its a bi-metallic application - Like a ferrous metal (containing iron) attached to a non-ferrous metal (aluminum or pot-metal). A steel bolt in an aluminum block is a good example. Electrolysis takes place between the dissimilar metals causing corrosion which will lock things together that you don't want locked together.

OEM is into a fast moving assembly line, so they put the pieces/parts together dry, without lubricants. But, you and I have the option of fighting it once - and putting it back together with anti-seize. Many of the mechanics I work with don't like the stuff 'cause "its messy"! Duh! You're a mechanic - get over it! Anti-seize seems to preclude electrolysis. I do fleet maintenance. The things I put together can be taken back apart repeatedly over a period of time. It makes a difference in the long run.

Also, using the correct torque spec will obviously make a difference. A 1/2" Drive rachet, and a mindset that "I can hit 25ftlbs", is no substitute for a torque wrench. Air tools are great for removing fasteners, but avoid them (as a general rule) for reassembly. An inexperienced mechanic thinking that he can save time using air tools will more than likely overtighten things creating problems later.

Basically, fight it once, then, clean it (or use a new nut/bolt), lubricate it and tighten it properly.

 

[snoopjonnyjon]

I also had to redo the front body mounts. They were the only rusty bolts on the truck, except the rear leaf spring shackles, they were bad too. Everything else came off alright. And yes, I have removed EVERY bolt.

The Energy Suspension kit claims to only work on 83-88... don't believe them. Its a lot cheaper than stock replacement parts too. It works just fine with a little imagination, but you'll need to run real bolts and nuts with big ass flat washers. I went away from all that crap with goofy stamped hex pieces. Just cut the trash out and go new.

Old trash

[/IMG]

New Energy poly body mounts

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've given just that advice for years now here in regards to doing a swap. I live by Murphy's Law. "If something can go wrong, it will"

My truck is a rolling testiment to that, although it is pretty clean underneith and it hasn't given me much of a problem getting bolts out.

An impact ripped out the bed bolts for my bodylift without a problem, I could have reused them if I wanted to.

 

[Iron Ranger]

I live in Northern Minnesota, and up until two years ago, this truck has been driven in the salt saturated winter snow since it rolled off the assembly line. It's so bad, the bolts don't seem to have threads anymore.

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

Also, everytime you take anything apart, load it up with antiseize before reassembly. Hit the threads on bolts, all bushing surfaces, ball joint bores, flat mating surfaces, everything. It will make taking it apart again 4 years down the road that much easier.

And also, a torch is your friend when trying to unstick bolts. When I did the clutch on my explorer I had to remove the y-pipe. The required taking the bolts out of the manifolds. These have been seizing in place for 16 years with thousands of large thermal cycles and lots of salty crap in the winters. No amount of cheater bar or even the best 1/2" impact in the shop would budge them. I just heated up the part of the manifold that they screw into until it was glowing red. The bolts came right out with a 1/2" ratchet. After plenty of antiseize I put them back together. Now the next time the clutch goes getting the y-pipe off won't be a big deal at all!

 

[brett]

i do all my work with a 69 dollar socket set from canadian tire
have a set of air tools that ive never used (except grinder)
if you cant do it by hand i dont wanna do it
peacefull under there
rusty broken stripped bolts are the best part
i have spent days trying to get bolts off (f250 bed for lift)
before i finally break out a grinder
kinda stupid but if you dont enjoy the good and the bad a motor swap aint for you