Rough idle and running rich?

[CDW]

Im having bad idle on start up but its easy to start when warm and cold. once it gets hot it shuts off and wont crank back up and back fires.My EGR solenoid has a leak in it can hear it while its idling. its also running rich white tinted smoke that burns my eyes. The air box had a rat nest in it so I cleaned it out and the air regulator maybe not sure on the box I cleaned had alot of carbon build up in it.

The truck was sitting for years 10+ from my father. he installed a new crate engine and he was having over heating problems glowing hot red manifold. I pulled it out the field and started messing with it timing was 180 out.
Ive replaced distributor cap, gas tank, sending unit with pump. frame pump, fuel pump relay, starter solenoid, wires, plugs, coil, thermostat, oil, filters, vacuum lines, fuel regulator, other little stuff cant remember at this point. I dont have my service manual on me. Im thinking I need to replace the EGR and MAP. I dont believe the 85 2.3 ranger has a MAF on it but im not sure.

Is there anything else that an be causing these problems Before it sat it was only having an over heat problem and does this truck have an OBD hook up spot and if so where?

EDIT:
I unplugged fan motor egr and map and the truck idles with no problem now it can drive but it has a huge lack in power and is still running rich? replacing the parts I removed today tomarrow any ideas what the lack of power can be and running rich?

EDIT 2:
New map sensor did nothing im going to leave it disconnected for now until I understand more about it. Gas leaks fixed engine has alot more power but its still lacking Im going to check the timing within the next couple days *Dont have a timing light*.

What would I need to change the bench seat to a 40/60 seat?

 

[tomw]

The MAP sensor turns manifold vacuum into a number for the computer. When idling, the load on the engine is low, vacuum high, so the computer can lean out the mix a bit for fuel economy. When the go pedal is on the floor, manifold vacuum is low, so the MAP tells the computer the engine is under load, and the computer adds more fuel.
You will get a flaky idle for sure if the MAP dies. I would be checking for mouse houses in the exhaust or converter, daubers in the intake tube, and critters everywhere that have gnawed on the various vacuum lines under the hood.
You can disconnect the EGR and plug the hose with a golf tee to get it out of the possible problem area. It should not do anything at idle, and if it does, either the valve is stuck(possible after so long - clean & free), or the vacuum solenoids over on the passenger side under the plastic cover, have decided to leak vacuum to the EGR diaphragm. You can disconnect & plug the vacuum source on the tree on top of the manifold.
What's left? PCV - located near the distributor in-line inside the large hose coming from the side of the block at the oil separator.(under intake manifold) The replacements will come with a fitting for 2 vacuum lines that can be discarded or used for desk art. There is also a largish hose on the underside of the upper intake right 'after' the throttle plate. My brain won't bring up its purpose right now.
If you start the engine & idle it, you should be able to remove the oil filler cap, and place your hand or a postcard over the opening and have a slight vacuum develop over a short period of time, indicating the PCV system is sealed & working.
Other than that... need feedback.
tom

 

[Mikel89us]

Could have an injector plugged up or sticking open.

 

[CDW]

Reply

The MAP sensor turns manifold vacuum into a number for the computer. When idling, the load on the engine is low, vacuum high, so the computer can lean out the mix a bit for fuel economy. When the go pedal is on the floor, manifold vacuum is low, so the MAP tells the computer the engine is under load, and the computer adds more fuel.
You will get a flaky idle for sure if the MAP dies. I would be checking for mouse houses in the exhaust or converter, daubers in the intake tube, and critters everywhere that have gnawed on the various vacuum lines under the hood.
You can disconnect the EGR and plug the hose with a golf tee to get it out of the possible problem area. It should not do anything at idle, and if it does, either the valve is stuck(possible after so long - clean & free), or the vacuum solenoids over on the passenger side under the plastic cover, have decided to leak vacuum to the EGR diaphragm. You can disconnect & plug the vacuum source on the tree on top of the manifold.
What's left? PCV - located near the distributor in-line inside the large hose coming from the side of the block at the oil separator.(under intake manifold) The replacements will come with a fitting for 2 vacuum lines that can be discarded or used for desk art. There is also a largish hose on the underside of the upper intake right 'after' the throttle plate. My brain won't bring up its purpose right now.
If you start the engine & idle it, you should be able to remove the oil filler cap, and place your hand or a postcard over the opening and have a slight vacuum develop over a short period of time, indicating the PCV system is sealed & working.
Other than that... need feedback.
tom

I replaced the map with a new sensor and it does the same thing. and I still have no power threw out driving I found a couple of gas leaks that ive fixed today and one more near my aftermarket inline filter that need to fix tomarrow I put a new set of plugs in and air filter in aswell the plugs were black not with Oil tho. Im guessing its carbon?

 

[tomw]

I would check fuel pressure with the vacuum line attached and with it removed. Attached, engine at idle, the pressure should be lower. Remove the line and the pressure should increase.
Have you set the timing with the SPOUT connector jumper plug removed? 10BTDC with the spout out at hot idle. Plug is hanging out of the bundle of wires from the drivers side inner fender to the 'generally' rear of the intake manifold. Don't lose it.
With the timing set, you should have normal power, but you may want to check for critter exhaust. Critters may have built a home in your exhaust system, leading to higher back pressure. Or the timing belt may be off. In that MY you could set the crank pointer to TDC, and remove the black plug on the cam belt cover. Cam sprocket triangle on the edge should line up with the pointer when the crankshaft rotates to TDC for #1 cylinder compression stroke. You might also check the large air intake tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body. If it leaks, the engine will run poorly, at least at idle, as the IAC is over on the air cleaner, and feeds the engine through a conjoined tube of ~1" in diameter. Make sure they are both intact and tight to their respective fitments.
tom