o yeah, 84-88 turbo coupe motors will work, then all the same, except for a few things, computer, intake manifold, turbo, etc. the block and internal are all the same. 88' is the best you can get, so look for a 88'.
Actually the blocks were specially selected from production
Only a certain part of each individual "pour" never the first several.
Then they were selected for weight AFTER initial machining
THEN the blocks were checked for core concentricity by ultrasound
to check the unifrmity of the cylinder wall thickness.
Basically the turbo blocks were selected from the top 5% or
so of whatever was available and in '88 on rangers and '89-90
on Mustangs if you look close at the engines you find a few
that were actually drilled for the oil return pipe but were used
for production normally aspirated engines. these were turbo blocks
in all respects, they just made more of them than they actually
needed.
as for the internals the turbo engines were built with FORGED
pistons with a larger dish to reduce compression.
The lower the compression the more boost you can run.
On part of a turbo engine that I WOULD NOT use is the stock camshaft.
Not that there is a really "better" one for general use, but the factory
"slider" camshaft grings itself (and the sled followers) into metal chips that have gotta go THROUGH the oil pump before the filter can catch them
One real bad issue with this cam is the tendency of the base circle of the cam lobe to wear a groove across the face of the follower
this has two mechanical secondary effects, first the shock of the lobe tip wiping through that grove causes microcracks in the hardened surface
of the lobe and that leads to failure of the lobe itself.
The second effect is it causes the follower to hop up and away
from the lobe tip which cause the formation of an "Echo groove"
further along the "sled" surface of the follower.
there is an additional problem these grooves cause other than
accelerated wear and metal chips...
the knock sensor "hears" this noise and pulls timing (and boost)
in response to what it "thinks" is a spark knock.
The cam to run is the '88-94 ranger roller, it's not a spectacular cam,
but the fabricated cam is as hard as glass.
I have never seen a worn one, even one I personally pulled out of an '88 Ranger engine that I KNEW had in excess of 200k
It also reduces rolling friction inside the engine.
The stock Sled cam takes a wrench to turn over
the roller cam can be rotated in the head by simply grabbing
the pulley with your hand and rotating it.
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