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One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.


With the AFR's I would be over 650 with the setup I'm building, not to mention I have the capability to ho to around 750. I'll stay with stockish heads for now...


SVT

With that much HP you probably will need to start looking at stronger blocks. Unless you are planning on really taking it easy on that combination. But we all know how that works out in the long run. It starts out with, "yep, I won't be going over 4500 RPM's, it is just a light duty street vehicle". Three days later it is spinning past 5500 on it's way to 6000!!! :icon_thumby:
 
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The cam will be here tomorrow. I am still set to assemble during the month of March after a few last minute items are scratched off the task list this month.

1. Check gap on each piston ring by cylinder, correct if needed
2. Check rod bearing oil clearance
3. Weight match rods, pistons, and pins to the lightest piece
4. Balance rotating assembly with balancer, and flywheel attached
5. Fit pistons and rods
6. Final clean the crank
7. Final clean the cam
8. Final clean the bearings
9. Final clean the rings
10. Final clean the piston & rod combinations
 
The camshaft arrived this week and was inspected and added to the parts shelf. It won’t be long now!! Just a few short weeks and the final parts collecting and preparing will be done and assembly will begin.

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We had some cold weather today but I still managed to get some engine work done this morning. I cleaned the cam retaining plate and fasteners then test fit it in preparation for installing the camshaft next weekend. Then I wiped down the cylinder bores and test fit the top and second ring (separately) for each cylinder. It looks like each of these rings will need to be file fit. I am going with .018 gap on the second ring and .024 gap on the top ring. I moved the piston rings and tools into the barn yesterday so everything would be measured at the same working temperature today. I am going to wait and double check my gap measurements when it warms up over the next few days before file fitting any of the rings. Measure twice, cut once!!!!

First I placed the ring vertical into the bore and carefully pressed it down in while lightly compressing the sides.

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Then I pivoted the ring so it sat horizontal in the bore.

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Then carefully squared it in the bore by using a piston and ring as a squaring tool.

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Then I measured the ring gap with a feeler gauge on each of the top and second rings. The average gap was between .016 and .018 on the majority of the piston rings.

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Even with a busy work schedule this weekend I did get the camshaft installed. I cut a piece of threaded rod, drilled out a plastic file handle, and then screwed the two together. The new tool made it easy to slip the cam into place without any damage to the bearings. Installing the cam before the rotating assembly made it easy to get an extra pair of hands in the mix to guide the cam through each of the bores.

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A week or so ago I determined that the piston ring gap on each of the top and second rings would need to be file fit to spec. Today I had a few hours to tackle this project so I started by clearly marking the top side of each ring to avoid confusion during the process.

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I also marked the six o’clock position to use as a reference point to help keep the ring square as the gap is being cut.

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I set up two pieces of aluminum angle in a vise with a file placed in the center of the two. The aluminum pieces act as a guide to helped keep the ring squared horizontally as the gap is being cut. I then added some painters tape to the aluminum so the bottom side of the ring would not be scratched. Then I measured the inside diameter of the ring and marked the file so I didn’t go too far on each pass and bang the back side of the ring. Because of the Moly coating each pass should be from the outside of the ring towards the inside. By using this method the Moly coating shouldn’t chip as the ring is pushed along the edge of the file. I was very careful to only file one side of the gap, to keep the ring squared on each pass, and double check the gap alignment by holding it up to the light and compressing the ring so the gap closed on itself. By doing so the file side could be compared to the stock side to make sure the gap was consistent from the inside to the outside. If any light can be seen either on the inside or the outside of the gap the next few passes can be adjusted by moving the mark at the six o’clock position right or left as needed.

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Each gap was carefully checked and rechecked as it was brought into spec until the final number was perfect. Then all four sides of the corrected end on each ring were lightly dressed with 400 grit paper to clean any burrs.

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As mentioned earlier, I decided to push the engine assembly aside for a bit while I searched for another 98, 99, or 00 Ranger. The black 98 has become the daily driver and currently isn’t the best choice for a frame off restoration/5.0 swap. Earlier this week I secured a one owner original Florida truck with a nice compliment of options.



 
That's going to make a nice swap donar.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
That's going to make a nice swap donar.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Thank you. I hope to have the box off this week and start getting the 3.0 V6 and auto trans ready to come out by the end of May. If all goes well the frame will be out by the end of June.
 
I finished my work day a little early today so I ended up with a little extra time to remove the bed and get it set up on saw horses temporarily. After it was in place I was surprised how steady it was sitting on two 8x4x4’s on top of the saw horses. I may end up making that the semi/permanent home while the body and frame are both being worked.







 
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I have been working the last few nights on the getting the engine and automatic transmission ready to come out. Tonight I was able to get it about half way out before I had to quit for the evening. I hope to have it sitting on the ground tomorrow night.



 
Nice, you plan on reusing the block heater?

SVT
 
Didn't know you were in Fl, since you won't use it, I'd put it up for sale in the classifieds, I know another member would pick that up quick...

SVT
 
Didn't know you were in Fl, since you won't use it, I'd put it up for sale in the classifieds, I know another member would pick that up quick...

SVT

Thanks. I didn't even think of that. I have a few more items I will be listing as well, probably on Craigslist.

3.0 V6 with automatic, 150,000 mile motor (have video of motor running and driving).

Four factory 99 chrome wheels.

7.5 rear.
 

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