• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Need some opinions on clutch stuff


He has an M5OD-R1 and uses ATF.
 
yep to above. i tried to turn the master 15 minutes ago and tilt it down...worked for about 10 minutes on the drive after....

its the stupidest thing...it only does this 'not go into gear thing' when its hot...grr stupd piece of junk.

earliest i can get help to bleed this thing is sat morning. (i dunno if i mentioned it but my left hand's skin is messed bad gripping things NOT an option.)

we shall see. i really need this thing to work for me!
 
almost sounds like a little air bubble that expands as it gets hot and the fluid looses viscosity.
 
Last edited:
yea i was stupid worried that something in my clutch system wasnt liking 35 inch tires with 3.55 gears :icon_rofl:

what do u guys suggest as the best method to bleed this sucker? gravity (grab tube stick it on, run it down into a pan, replace fluid as it slowly drains.

or bench...tho i tried to move the plunger on the master when i took it out to tip it upside down and it WOULDNT move at all for me...

thoughts on that?
 
To be able to push the piston into the master when bench bleeding the bleeder has to open so the fluid has some place to go.

You might have clutch drag only when hot due to the disc getting slightly thicker when it warms up combined with having a master cylinder that only provides enough travel to barely separate the flywheel from the disc. There are many Ranger masters, each with different piston bores and travels which affects the amount of fluid displaced and also how far the slave moves. A larger bore master and/or a slightly longer actuating rod may solve the problem if this is the case.
:icon_cheers:
 
Bleeding Clutch/Brakes

The very best way to bleed your clutch (or brakes) is with a pressure bleeder. The Ranger's clutch bleeder valve is in a pretty confined space...but you know that.

Normally I've had someone in the car push down on the pedal, hold it to the floor and say "down." I then just snug the bleeder valve and say "up." At that time the guy in the vehicle releases the pedal and says 'up." I again open the bleeder valve and say "down." Down - up - down - up and so on until I'm sure the air is out of the system, or if flushing with new fluid, until it runs clean.

The reason for snugging the bleeder valve each time is to keep air from being sucked back into the line through the valve or around the bleeder valve threads. It's also why those vacuum things don't work very well. Air is drawn in around the bleeder valve giving you a false idea of what is going on and whether or not you are actually getting air out of the system.

There are variations of the above and folks will tell you they do it this way or that, I've just noted what has worked for me.

With the lack of room around the clutch bleeder valve, once loosened I put my finger over the bleeder valve instead of snugging it back each time. A little messy but it will work and there is not a lot of fluid (compared to the brakes) in the clutch line. Not having a lot of fluid is also the reason why a little air can make a big difference in clutch engagement.

Once you get to the bleeder valve and get it opened, bleeding is a five minute operation and is certainly the thing to try first.
 
yea i was stupid worried that something in my clutch system wasnt liking 35 inch tires with 3.55 gears :icon_rofl:

what do u guys suggest as the best method to bleed this sucker? gravity (grab tube stick it on, run it down into a pan, replace fluid as it slowly drains.

or bench...tho i tried to move the plunger on the master when i took it out to tip it upside down and it WOULDNT move at all for me...

thoughts on that?

There is a very good article in the tech forum about bleeding a clutch, go read that and use that procedure.
 
alrighty. with what was said about the disk getting slightly bigger...that may make sense. i did change the ranger master out for an explorer one because the master of the ranger was bend (the rod was) due to the numb nuts before me cracking the firewall and wondering why it wouldnt engage. :icon_rofl: this may have something to do with it.

well tommorrow my hand should be good to go. ill give it a bleed from the bleeder and see how it goes! then ill report back so maybe we can get a tech on it or something so these threads dont keep coming up! :headbang:
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top