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Narrowed 3/4 or 1 ton axles?


TexasRebel

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
319
Age
29
City
Texas
Vehicle Year
1990, 2006
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
You live every day, you only die once...
I'm wanting to get bigger axles under my truck while I've got the body off and don't think I want full width since I am going to still use the truck on the road. If you run full widths on the road on a square body, can you post how you like it and pictures? I'm also wondering how involved it would be to narrow 3/4 or 1 ton axles?

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It would be easier to find a set of early Bronco axles (d44 and 9") they are narrower and almost fit perfect. Narrowing a axle would take you pulling the axle tubes out from the pumpkin, narrowing those down, re welding into the pumpkin, then you would have to get the axles narrowed down to what you need (length). Unless you are doing some hard core wheeling, with huge tires, a D44 and 9" would serve best. A 3/4 or 1 ton axle would be overkill.
 
fullsize fit better.... if you use it hard, you will have to upgrade the eb axle shafts if they are not already....its low pinion and usually fetches a premium for a shitty axle.

the pumpkin is almost center so you have to hack the crossmember to hell and you have to mod the radius arms or get huge offset rims making it wide as hell anyway to get full steering radius.... better to narrow a full width d44 longside so you move the pumpkin over a bit to the outside.


so, buy some fat fenders and go fullwidth with some higher to the knuckle offset wheel to narrow it up a bit and enjoy a much much much better handling truck over a eb axle with a great turning radius..


this is fullwidth and the one with the tube doors and swampers is with a d35...the tires stick out the same due to wheels....and of course with the big 42's they stick way the fawk out but can be 4 inches narrower with different wheels...that comes at a cost of potential turning radius loss and tire rub though.

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good luck running 42's on an eb axle.:D
 
this is my b2 with eb axles, its 351rangers old b2. of course my daughter stole it. but i did manage to get it back after she left for the airforce. so i regularly drive and own both and plan to build a fullwidth d44 ranger ttb....well...d60 ttb....as well. so its from experience.


it drives good and i have standard 150 wheels on it too so the wheels are way in, and i destroyed one of my street radials because of it. so custom inboarding of the radius arms or custom radius arms are needed. this happens when you just do a bolt in job with it....it is one of the compromises, but it is a cake walk few hour deal so it is easy to live with.

in direct comparison, fullwidth axles are leaps ahead in handling to my taste.


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When I had my 69 Bronco I converted the rear to a D60. I narrowed it by finding an axle from a van with an offset pumpkin and just cutting the long side down to match the short side. This offered the advantage of being able to buy another short side axle and not needing to buy custom axles.
It turned out to be a cost effective method to narrow an axle.
 
When I had my 69 Bronco I converted the rear to a D60. I narrowed it by finding an axle from a van with an offset pumpkin and just cutting the long side down to match the short side. This offered the advantage of being able to buy another short side axle and not needing to buy custom axles.
It turned out to be a cost effective method to narrow an axle.


this is ideal, and possible to do with a d44 jeep waggy or j series as well. but the chevy axle re-cut is an option as well.
 
Just curious...but why do you need 3/4 or 1 ton axles on your Ranger?

My fw Ranger drives good on the road. No wandering or weird characteristics.
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Mine has a narrowed D60 front and Sterling 10.25 rear. Keep in mind the tires are 40x16r17 LTB's

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I know I'm bumping a pretty dead thread, but I'm running a narrowed 44 from a 79 Bronco, standard 5" cut, with 75 Chevy K20 knuckles out to get 8 lug and small calipers to clear 15" wheels. Rear is a Chevy 14 bolt rear end from a cab and chassis truck, rear isn't cut or modified besides disk brake swap, almost perfect match to the front axle. I guess you'd consider that 3/4 ton?
 
15/16 ton....:D
 

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