I'm sure I got a short.

[Curious Hound]

Well, " Curious" did that link work?

Beautiful. And i saw codes 111 and 212. It repeats each code twice before moving on to the next code.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I've learned something else new it just took me hours and hours and hours to learn.

The only part I don't like so much is that it post my name as well.

Sorry " Curious " but I hate having the name Eric and always have.
My middle name is Douglas. So I go by Doug.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

So my brother said he would help me move my truck bed in the morning.

Before we do that I'm going to ask him to hold the black probe of my multimeter to a good clean ground spot on the core support of the truck. While I put the red probe onto the number 4 pin of the C118 connector. And see if we get a reading or not.

That way I can be sure I didn't mess the test up.

Now I saw a YouTube video the other day, if I remember right the connector/plug at the top of my gas tank has 4 wires to it .
Both the left outside wire and the right outside wire are grounds.

The wire that is second from the left is to the fuel sender.
And the wire second from the right is to the fuel pump.

In the picture below from page 23-1 of my EVTM
It shows the fuel pump and fuel sender in relation to being in the gas tank.
I believe the one on the right that has the circle with the M in the middle of it, is the fuel pump. It has a pink wire with a black tracer and a black wire that goes to the ground.

I believe the sender unit is on the left and has a yellow wire with a white tracer. Which is my 29 wire that goes to the C118 connector. And a black wire with a yellow tracer that goes to the ground.

So once the bed is out of the way I can then remove the connector/plug from the gas tank.

I can then put the black probe of my multimeter on the far left pin or peg coming out of the gas tank. And the red probe to the one just to the right of that one. With the meter on the 600 ohms setting.
And see if I get a reading.

If I get a reading with this test, I then will concentrate on just my wire 29 and find out if it has a break or short or something in it.

If I do not get a reading.
I will then find the closest easy to clean ground spot and hold the black probe to that ground spot.
Then once again hold the red probe to the second pin from the left and see if I get a reading then.

I believe I have a good plan moving forward. Can anyone tell me if it is a good plan for sure.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I just realized that the grounds for both the fuel pump and the fuel sender go through connector C118.
Back up front of the truck.
They mount just to the side of the starter relay.
I can also check there to see if connection is tight. Or needs to be cleaned and remade.

 

[Brain75]

that is also on the testing checklist - check then with a good ground (body/negative terminal), then check them with their own ground (out of the connector) - helps double check the wiring on the ground side.....

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I agree, Brain

Did you see I figured out how to get the video I made earlier to post.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I did all the tests I talked about last night.
With putting my probes on the pegs of the sender unit second to last.

I thought I was getting nowhere until I probed the sender unit.
It's dead, dead, dead.
I got no reading at all from it

I even put my probes on to the fuel pump pegs.
I got a reading from it of 0.5 OHMS.

The last thing I did was:
While I had the plug off of the fuel pump/sender unit after reconnecting connector C118. I put my multimeter onto the setting that beeps when you connect both probes together.
Then I put my probes into both the grounds of the fuel pump/sender unit plug.
I got a nice beep telling me my grounds where both intact.

At that point I was done testing.

I got to buy a new fuel pump assembly I guess.
Be easier then having to try to change just the sender unit.

I did see that the gas fill tube is nice and pretty however.
From seeing the outside of the fuel pump/sender unit, i.e. the fuel pump assembly, it looks to not be that old.
I guess it's just a bad sender from the factory.

 

[Curious Hound]

Did you put your meter on DC volts and make sure you have voltage on the Y/W wire on the female side of C118? Key must be in run position.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

No I have not done that, " Curious".

But I put my probes on both the pegs from the sending unit and I got nothing at all.
That should tell me that the sending unit is bad, right?

 

[Curious Hound]

No I have not done that, " Curious".

But I put my probes on both the pegs from the sending unit and I got nothing at all.
That should tell me that the sending unit is bad, right?

It probably is. But I’d hate for you to buy a sending unit and then find out there’s a broken wire somewhere and you’re not getting voltage to it either.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I may have already tested that.
I did one other test I forgot to put in my first post today. Post number 382 of this thread.

In that post I should have added:
While I had the plug off of the fuel pump/sender unit and connector C118 back together.

I also ran a little extension wire with alligator clips on each end of it.
While the battery was hooked up,
I placed one alligator clip to my positive battery terminal on one end and the alligator clip to a test light hook to the other end of the extension wire.
So I could get a power wire back to where the fuel pump/sender unit is.
Then while my brother was watching the gauges on the dashboard. I very quickly placed the ice pick tip part of the test light inside the plug onto the yellow wire with white tracer wire 29.
I did this very quickly just pushed it on there once and pulled it off real quickly. I wanted to do my best to make sure I didn't mess anything up.
He told me all the gauges jumped including the gas gauge.
So I did this again and he confirmed that all the gauges moved including the gas gauge.

The truck ignition was in the off position.

So I believe this confirms that all the wires are good.

Now " Curious" if you feel I should still disconnect my c118 connector and then go to the female side and test power there,
I will do it.
I know you know more about this than I do so if you tell me to do a test and you feel it needs to be done I'll do it.

 

[Curious Hound]

Try a new sender

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I'm going to have to do some pricing.
I can change just the sender, right?

But wouldn't it be just as good to change the whole fuel pump assembly?

I'm sure I know the prices are going to make a difference.

Should I still do that test on the female side of connector C118?
I'm now back at my brother's parked.
I can do that test by myself.
I think I'm going to go ahead and do that test anyway.
I'm just setting here bored anyway, I might as well go ahead and do the test while I'm not doing anything else.

 

[RobbieD]

But wouldn't it be just as good to change the whole fuel pump assembly?

I wouldn't trust a newly-made part, unless I absolutely had to.

Replacement parts are garbage these days.

If just the sender is broke, you'll have to replace it, unless you find something easy to fix once you pull it and are able to look it over.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I have to pull the whole fuel pump assembly however to get to the sender unit, right?