I'm sure I got a short.

[RobbieD]

The foil used to shield wiring works much, much better for a hat, versus Reynolds Wrap.

I can hear the instructions from the mother ship a lot more clearly.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

So today I did not take any more tape or coverings off the wiring harness then was shown in the pictures I took this morning and posted this afternoon.

I de-pined the connector that plugs onto the ignition control module.
The reason I did this is because I realized the little clip inside the connector plug that holds pin 8 the power wire in place was broken. That's why pin 8s wire was trying to slip out yesterday.

Luckily I had another connector plug.
To bad it's locking clip is broken too.

I would have taken pictures of everything I done today.
But I've had a really irritating day.
It seems like every time I start to get started into doing what I'm doing with the wiring, somebody calls my phone, sends me a text message so on so forth.
It's like I got interrupted a million times today.
So I was irritated and didn't feel like stopping for the steps it would take to take pictures.

As I had the pins out, wires out (whatever we want to say) of the plug for the connector to the ignition control module I went ahead and added some aluminum foil around the wires that have the shielding wire wrapped around them.
And then I placed some electrical tape over top of that aluminum foil.
I got it all the way up to about 2 inches away from the connector plug.

At that point it I had two sets of wires that was covered with electrical tape.
So I then had the tan wire that communicates with the tachometer that's in pin 2, the red power wire from pin 8, the black and white ground wire from pin 9, and all 3 of the yellow wires with different colored stripes that go to the coil pack and are in pins 10, 11 and 12.
I went ahead and taped them all together with each other.
This made it so I then had 3 sets of wires covered in electrical tape.

I will write and post more in a few minutes.
I want to take a picture real fast and I'm afraid if I turn on my camera which will close this page out I'll lose what I've already wrote.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Okay @Curious Hound thanks for helping me understand more about what I'm doing. You have always helped me to understand.
Please keep doing so. Thank you.

If I understand right what I have in this picture is a sheath. Is that right?

 

[RobbieD]

Dude; that looks bad. I'd have a doctor look at that finger.

 

[Brain75]

"wire loom" the mfg call it...

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I made this video on my way home tonight.

Shared album from Eric 📸

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

I need to use the bathroom.
I will finish my update on today I started earlier in my post #557 once I'm done.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

So I forgot to add in my update post, post #557 of this thread.

While I had the wires unpinned I did both the OHMS test and the voltage drop test that @RobbieD told me to do.
The results of the OHMS test was open lead I do believe what the OL stands for on my multimeter.
The results for the voltage drop test was 0.10.
Because I started with 12.29 volts on the battery for my baseline.
Then on the wires I had 12.19 volts.
So as I already stated I believe that is a 0.10 drop

Yes I'm aware my battery should have more than 12.29 volts.
However it starts my truck without no problems so I don't see the since replacing it at this time.


Also while I had the wires unpinned from the connector plug for the ignition control module,
I took both the dark blue wire and the gray wire that go to my crankshaft position sensor and twisted them around each other even more then they already was all way to just before they go back into the connector plug.
I twisted them the same direction they was already twisted. Leaving only about 3/4 of an inch of them not twisted together.
Then I took them both and twisted them around the bare wires that are the shielding wire for them.

I then did the same with the GY/O wire #395, the O/R wire #259 and both of the PK wires for the Spout Check Connector.
Leaving a little bit of each of the PK wires and the Spout Check Connector hanging over to the side.

After doing that is when I then tapped each of those sets of wires together.

I will write more in my next post I don't want to put to much in 1 post.

 

[Curious Hound]

Okay @Curious Hound thanks for helping me understand more about what I'm doing. You have always helped me to understand.
Please keep doing so. Thank you.

If I understand right what I have in this picture is a sheath. Is that right?View attachment 124922

Close. As mentioned, we call that "wire loom". Maybe I can clarify a little bit more. Normally, a cable assembly is a group of wires manufactured into one assembly like the picture below. Or, like the Romex cable used to wire circuits in your house, or a cord on an appliance. This is a cable from an auxiliary light system I used on my truck. It has 3 insulated wires assembled together inside the outer sheath.

When we or the automobile manufacturer run a bunch of wires together to go to similar locations, we tidy things up by grouping those wires together in a "wiring harness". We do this, often with wire loom, like you pictured or by using zip-ties/cable ties/wire ties every few inches, or electrical tape. There is a sticky cloth tape you may see in older vehicles, called friction tape. It is very useful for this purpose. Wiring harnesses in machinery control panels used to be harnessed with waxed string. This is called lacing. There is quite an art to lacing wires in a control panel. When done properly, it looks neat and organized. Wire loom and other similar products also provide another level of mechanical protection to the wires.

A small example of Laced control wires.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Once I taped up each set of wires I started the truck and looked to see if the tachometer was still working and it was with all three sets.
I even backed it up out of the space it was in for about 20 ft and then pulled it back forward to place it back where it was the 20 ft I'd backed it up the tachometer worked fine each time.

So once I had all 3 sets of electrical taped wires, I then carefully placed one of the sets of taped wires into the black wire casing, that I now believe is called a sheath.
Or as what @Brain75 say is called a wire loom.

After I had that first set of taped wires into the wire loom I then carefully placed another set into the wire loom. Once I had that in place I then put the third set into the wire loom.

Once I had all three sets of electrical taped wire sets into the wire loom I then taped up the wire loom as well.

Before I used the better connector plug for the ignition control module and after I depinned the wires that was in it, I used my electrical cleaner on it.
Prior to unpinning the other connector plug for the ignition control module with the wires that are actually on my truck I had yesterday cleaned it with my electrical cleaner.
However today I cleaned it again with my electrical cleaner before I unpinned it.
So all of my connector pins were all clean.

Once I was ready to plug the connector plug with the wires onto the ignition control module I first squeezed some Dielectric Grease into the ignition control module where the plug goes into it.
I squeezed the good amount into it.
So much I thought it was going to come out of the connection as I pushed the connector into it, but it didn't.

Once I had the ignition control module plugged into the connector plug I then once again used small zip ties to secure it in place since the locking clip is broken.
At that point I remounted it to my core support where it belongs.
I then went for a drive and my truck was acting up a little bit but not as bad as yesterday.

And then on the way home I made another video as you all seen.

It's supposed to rain tomorrow but if it doesn't or the next day that I have a decent day, my plans are to unhook connector C123 then clean it with my electrical cleaning spray.
After that I'm going to apply some more of the Dielectric Grease to it and then put it back together.
After I finish that and it's back together I'm going to take my truck for a small drive and see if it helps.

If that does not help I'm going to pick another connector most likely C118 because that's the one I had apart when I was working on my gas gauge.
I'm going to clean it with my electric cleaner spray. Then add some Dielectric Grease to it as well and then put it back together.
Once again after I do that one I will take my truck for a small drive and see if that helps.

Hopefully one of those too will correct my problem. However even if they do correct my problem I'm going to continue with all of my connectors I don't know how long it's going to take me, I may only be able to do 1, 2 or 3 a day depending on what else I got going on but I'm going to do all of them that are on the driver's side of my engine compartment.

I have no inner fender on that side the driver side so that exposes all those connectors to the elements.
That's why I plan to do all of those connectors before looking anywhere else for the problem.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I don't want to really take any more of my wiring harness apart the way I did today and yesterday. Because I listen to the knowledge of others around me and especially in this form.
For example @Curious Hound told me I seem to have a tendency to jump in and start taking things apart before I know what's really going on.
Once I figured out the original issue with my truck when I first started this thread.

I don't want to take the harness apart completely and get lost in what I'm doing.
Or cause more problems.
Just like @Curious Hound warned me about doing.
I figured once I clean the connections and add the grease if I still have not figured out the problem at that point, I can go back to the wiring harness where I left off and pick up from there.
I can go for maybe another foot or foot and a half and look there and then reassemble that part.
I will go section by section being as meticulous and careful as I can.

Hopefully I won't have to do that.
Either way I look at this as a learning experience.

Once again like always I thank everyone for their help and encouragement.

 

[RobbieD]

No fender liner is bad ju-ju. Like you say, stuff is getting exposed to the elements. I hope that you can score a replacement.

The "sheath" is also called "split loom" and "convoluted tubing".

You're making good progress.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@RobbieD
The big problem with that is it takes money and I don't got none.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

@RobbieD
The big problem with that is it takes money and I don't got none.

Its tough starting out. Money comes with time. Time is money. I can relate, I'm very cash poor. I'm lucky that I seem to have good people around me that give me chances and opportunities. But my body isn't what it once was or I would be doing a lot better. I do the same and try to have a positive outlook and try to help others when I can.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I've told a lot of people how lucky I am to have the people around me that I do.
I'm the baby of seven kids that my parents had.
I've got five older brothers and an older sister.
Out of those six siblings four of them still talk to me and help me when I need it.
However I do the same for them when I can.
I'll be 50 years old this year.
I have psoriasis which causes rheumatoid arthritis and it hurts a lot sometimes.
I also have a bad sciatic nerve and that kills me everyday.
Then on top of that back in 2016 while I was in prison I got jumped by four guys and have been suffering from a headache every day since.
It's called long-term concussion side effects.
Then on top of that migraines running my family big time I'll get at least one a week.
And that's after being put on medication for them.

I've been trying to get into community college and it's like one hurdle after another.
If I wasn't trying to go to college I would get it full-time job, somewhere doing something.
I'm not even at the stage of getting to enroll in classes where I can pick morning, afternoon or evening yet.

I got so many things I need to do during the daytime thinking a second or third shift job would be the best for me.
But I don't know if the classes I want to take well be available for me to take them in the morning or the afternoon.
I'm quite positive they have classes for those subjects in the evening however.
But if I'm at work and the evenings I can't go to no classes.

All right I've complained enough back to a positive attitude a good perspective.

Sorry to seem like a crybaby guys.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I edited my last post I think it's easier to read and understand now.