I'm new here and building a v8 ranger

[Moose_]

Ford 8.8 swap questions

A coworker has just informed me he will be picking up a Ford explorer 8.8 rear end to aquire the L/S style carrier. He has asked me if I want to get a good deal on the remains, which will come with an open carrier and 4.10 gears. Here is what I know:

-From a newer explorer
-Has disc brakes
-Open carrier with 4.10 gears
-Coworker will be taking the pinion flange from it to mate to his existing drive shaft.
-Looks like it will be ~ $150 CAD

Should I do it?

Right now I have a 7.5, no idea what gears, 2WD, no idea if my driveshaft will work.

I own a MIG welder, and have easy access to a TIG machine as well. I know I will need to cut/ weld at least the spring perches.

I looked through the axel swap section, which was helpful. I'm just not sure if this is a step in the right direction, or just opening up a whole other can of worms...

 

[win]

1

I am unsure a 4.1 open diff with a missing pinion flange and a mismatched carrier is a practical path to take.

Even compete and properly set, a 4.1 open would take a very light touch just to keep from smoking the one rear tire.

Personally, I opt for a complete 8.8/trac loc/disks from a u-pull-it for likely similar.money.

 

[ATX]

I truly second that . I went from a open 8.8 that came in my 94 ranger xlt xcab with 3.08's . Swapped gear and pinion out for a 3.73 set and it had the one wheel spin of death . Since my 96 expo 5.0 swap I swapped in the trac loc 8.8 with 3.73's and disk . And it's a night and day difference . Out side of the 5.0 . The diff was the best thing I've done . Brakes on a dime now to


I just wanna go fast [emoji48]

 

[Moose_]

Been away for a while, getting back into it

I went on vacation, and upon coming back, things were pretty busy in the office... so I am finally getting back to working on the swap.

I have been flip-floppping pretty hard on what to do with the transmission and rear axle. I turned down the open 8.8, and have decided I will scour the u-pull yard in the spring for a limited slip ranger (or explorer) 8.8.

For the transmission, I will either have to rebuild the C4 in my posession, or find a T-5 and go down that route. Because I have everything for the C4- and it would be nice for my wife to be able/ want to drive it, I think I'm going to rebuild it. Currently looking at kits on Rockauto.

Here is the question- what should I order for a rebuild kit? Looking at the FRAM KT1083 kit with just seals... Should I get a kit with bands and clutches? I have never rebuilt a trans before, but it looks like there is lots of info out there (and here on TRS) and it doesnt seem like the most challenging job.

Any insight into what direction to take would be much appreciated... I am feeling stalled on this whole project and want to make some progress on this before the snow really hits.

 

[bobbywalter]

your running over some seriously established issues.

i am sure you have looked through some of the various builds on this forum and others.

execution of modifications and certain touches are always variables. but with some more study i would think development of a solid build plan would be easy to line out.

 

[Moose_]

Project update- Its been a while

Hey everyone,

Its been a while, but I'm back with an update.

Got the motor prepped- oil pan, pickup, head gaskets, block-off plate for fuel pump, and oil filter relocation kit.

Also picked up an axle from an '06 ranger- 3.55 gears with LS diff, and 10" drum brakes. I havent taken the cover off yet to verify the LS and gear ratio, but its a good wrecking yard, so I trust it is what they say.

I also swapped in a steering wheel I got with the motor. Cut the hub and rewelded it from the stock one- man that was flimsy!

Anyway... I hope to have more updates soon.

Cheers

 

[Moose_]

Fitting the motor in

So I spent most of the day working on the truck, got a few things done and overall made some pretty decent progress. After managing to get the motor in using mustang convertible mounts, I definitely understand why someone would spend the $$ on conversion mounts. Drilling/ slotting the frame was a pain! And after all that, I'm going to have to shim the driver side up what looks like 3/8-1/2" to level it out.

I had some trouble between the engine mount itself and the steering gearbox. Took some photos of it, not sure how other people have dealt with this, but I'm hopeful it wont be too much of an issue. I still haven't tightened the mount down yet, so I really don't know. The passenger side was much less dramatic, and I used the factory hole and enlarged it. Getting the nut on is a real PITA- I think I will have to unbolt the DS I beam and pull it out of the way for access.

I was hoping the trans mount would line up with the crossmember, but that didnt happen, so I will make a bracket to adapt the mount from the old A4LD to the tail of the C4.

It was a nice enough day that I even painted the new axle and took the cover off to verify it is actually a LS diff. Diff cover was pretty soft and scaly, so I got another and cleaned and painted it.

I'll be back at it tomorrow, so hopefully more progress and another update!

 

[gsp]

Coming along nice

 

[Moose_]

A little more progress this weekend

Got a little more progress done on the truck this weekend.
Leveled the motor out using washers b/w the motor and mounts. Had some clearance issues with the steering box, so had to shim it up substantially- pretty common I guess. Welded up an adapter bracket to support the tail of the transmission- just some 1/4" plate that bolts to the old trans mount and the holes on the tail of the C4.

I also started bolting on the water pump and alternator, got the transmission cooler lines attached, and mucked around with the exhaust that came with the motor. Mounted the oil filter remote kit to the pass side frame rail, just used an existing hole and 1/4" bolt w/ nylock- should hold. All in all pretty good progress.

The next thing I plan to tackle is the fuel lines. Ive heard I can use the stock in-tank fuel pump (low pressure) and just remove the high pressure pump from the mix. My thought is to run new rubber lines the whole way from the tank, add a filter, and run it up to the carb. I need to keep the evap system intact to meet emissions in Ontario, but can I lose the weird filter in the frame rails?
I was hoping to just ditch everything and make the system simple, wrap up the wires for the high pressure pump, really dont want to deal with the plastic fuel lines and connections. Was going to keep the stock fuel inertia switch intact for safety.

Is this the right way forward? I know a lot of people run inline pumps and regulators, but since I have an '86 I would rather just use the stock stuff and save that $$ for other parts (B&M shifter!).

 

[recutright]

as for the fuel system, I did the same thing on my 85 302 swap. just kept the pump in the tank and ran new hose to a filter and to the carb. worked real good for my stock motor. cant remember what pressure it is pushing, but as long as ur getting 4-6 psi you should be fine.
I didn't keep that system long though as I replaced the side tank with a b2 tank behind the axle. then I used the high pressure pump with a regulator.

 

[Moose_]

Fuel lines

Spliced into the fuel lines today. Decided to splice after the fuel filter, just pulled the high pressure pump out, soaked the plastic fuel line in warm water, and slipped the hose over a barbed union. Then ran some 1/4" rubber line up into the engine bay. Zip-tied it along the frame rail to keep it away from the exhaust. The union only went in up to three barbs (3/4 aint bad), but it was so snug, I still feel pretty good about it. No clamps small enough though- might have to order some or just power up the fuel pump and cross my fingers.

I was thinking of running another filter inline in the engine bay. Whats with that weird plastic housing fuel filter? I guess thats where the fuel return line runs to?

Anyway, thanks for the response recutright- I was a little worried that the 1/4" lines wouldnt cut it.

Snapped some pics while I was under there. heading to junkyard tomorrow to try and find a driveshaft.

 

[Moose_]

Whats the right driveshaft?

I'm hoping someone who has done the same style swap as me can tell me what the best driveshaft to look for in a junk yard would be. To summarize, my truck is:

1986 XLT Ranger
1970's 302 w/ mustang mounts
C4 slushbox
Ford 8.8 rear end

I measured the distance from tail to pinion flange, ~75" (if it helps)

The shaft that came out was a two-piece style.

Any help would be greatly appreciated- I plan on going to the junk yard tomorrow after work.

Thanks in advance!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It will be a long shot but a 83-84 truck with a C5 and the same bed config as yours would be close depending on engine placement.

If you get one that is too long it is pretty cheap to have them shortened.

 

[Moose_]

It will be a long shot but a 83-84 truck with a C5 and the same bed config as yours would be close depending on engine placement.

If you get one that is too long it is pretty cheap to have them shortened.

Long shot indeed. Nothing that old in the local junk yard today. The best I could find were aluminum shafts on ranger XLTs. F150 shafts just looked crazy long, and no Aerostars to be found. Saw one aluminum shaft, but the yoke was keyed on the spline- shouldnt it be splined all around?

If I try to reuse my existing driveshaft, can I pull an F150 shaft to use the yoke and flange?

I'll try the other u-pull-it yard next week, I think they have a better selection of older trucks in the back.

 

[prymetime1]

Might be easier to grab the ranger shaft n have it shortened to fit? I got one from a super cab I can grab measurements for ya this weekend. Is your trucks extended cab?