I'm new here and building a v8 ranger

[Moose_]

Might be easier to grab the ranger shaft n have it shortened to fit? I got one from a super cab I can grab measurements for ya this weekend. Is your trucks extended cab?

Yeah, its an XLT.

Called the guy I bought the motor from, he still has the slip yoke, will sell it to me for $35. Thats a win, hope it doesnt fall through.

Also called local driveshaft shop. Pricing as follows:
-New build shaft w/ slip yoke- $350
-Cut down- $70

So now I am thinking about just finding an older steel F150 shaft that has the right flange on the rear end, and having them cut and balance it for me. Not sure on what a donor would cost me though, thinking of putting an ad up looking for one.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

When I had mine shortened 5 years ago it was $50.

Big problem I see in JY's is the forklifts they use to move cars around usually end up tweaking driveshafts, watch that if you find one there.

 

[prymetime1]

Maybe this will help, it is what I based my upgrade to.

http://howtomatthew.blogspot.com/2009/05/swapping-2-piece-drive-shaft-for-1.html?m=1

So,1st thing. My stock driveshaft fit into the tailshaft of my c4. With that said, the article says to grab a d/s from the same set up as your original. Mine was a 2wd 5speed extended cab so the shaft I got is from a 98 super cab, 5 speed, 2wd. It should bolt up to the 8.8 since that's what is in the 98 also. I'm hoping for a simple install but can't tell ya since I haven't cross that road yet.

 

[Moose_]

Got another quote- all aluminum for $496. Too long for steel they said.

I'm now thinking I will just swap the yoke, get a 8.8 flange, and use a conversion U-joint. How strong is the stock 2 piece shaft? Anyone went this route before?

I dont really want an aluminum shaft.. they look huge!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The C4/5 is going to be a lot shorter than an overdrive automatic or a 5 speed... probably shorter than the 4 speed manual too.

I have been throwing a mostly stock HO at my stock shaft (with the little u joints) for 5 years and haven't broken anything.

 

[84FreakRanger]

Heads up, if ur engine has a front sump pan on it like mine did, assuming since u ordered up the dual sump, check to make sure it comes with a new pick up, you'll need it so the pump picks up oil from the deep side.

Also he needs the stud bolt and nut that holds the pick up tube. I went to the junkyard and found a bad 302 motor to get that stud bolt to hold the pick up tube in place.

 

[84FreakRanger]

Trans might be a 68? C8? Does the flex plate clear all around? If so should be good. I've heard u can't use a stock starter with thr 157 th. Get a high torq mini to solve thst issue

Use a mini starter from 94-up mustang. Easy to wire up and will bolt right in the c4

 

[Moose_]

Use a mini starter from 94-up mustang. Easy to wire up and will bolt right in the c4

Got a couple full size starters with the motor- it bolted right up and clears everything no problem. I'm using 70's manifolds, so I have more space than most, I think.

 

[Moose_]

Also he needs the stud bolt and nut that holds the pick up tube. I went to the junkyard and found a bad 302 motor to get that stud bolt to hold the pick up tube in place.

Uhhhhh... so motors already in, filled with oil. The bracket was pretty thin, like 0.060", so I just slipped it under the head of the bolt and torqued it to spec (cant remember what now, but I've been using that "Rebuild your small block ford" e-book floating).
Is that bad? If so, how bad?j

 

[Moose_]

Might be easier to grab the ranger shaft n have it shortened to fit? I got one from a super cab I can grab measurements for ya this weekend. Is your trucks extended cab?

Did you get a steel or aluminum shaft?

 

[prymetime1]

Aluminum shaft.

 

[Moose_]

Aluminum shaft.

My bad- just got to that page in your build! Really like where your going with that thing. I really like your heater box solution.

 

[prymetime1]

My bad- just got to that page in your build! Really like where your going with that thing. I really like your heater box solution.

All good cuz, just replying quick tonight thanks, just having fun with it. Trying to be patient while waiting on the shop. [emoji51]

 

[Moose_]

Think I can fire the motor this weekend?

ahhhhhh.... So I'm pretty excited now. I think that I can maybe test fire the motor tomorrow. Here is the list left to do, please help me add to it!

-V-belts(not that critical)
-prime oil pump
-ignition timing!
-plugs, plug wires
-check rockers/pushrods
-valve cover gaskets
-throttle linkage bracket (meh)
-check wiring
-by my detailed analysis I only need one wire from my old coilpack to the new old school coil
-wire oil pressure sender to OEM cluster (should work, right?)
-get slip yoke installed, then fill tranny with fluid (is this necessary?)
-carb vacuum lines (at least fuel vapor line?)
-should I just tee the bowl vapor line into the one from the fuel tank, and run the line into the air cleaner?
-check oil (distick is long and front sump has no oil from the way I lifted it. hope priming helps)
-fill block with coolant? (no hoses or rad yet)
-attach battery

-**Make smoke and noise!

I'm sure this list is missing some things, but I'm off to the parts store for some bits!

 

[prymetime1]

Hey moose, measured my driveshaft and its 72inches on the dot from flange to flange. Hope that helps you get ish figured out.