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I know I shouldn't...but can I?


Have a question on the headers. These are the Hedman headers I purchased. The O2 fittings are on the crossover, but what is the circled portion? Is that the warm air outlet or intake? Thanks.
header question.png
 
YEA!!!!! BOO!!!!!!!!!!
Everything is back together. Fluids all in. Wires all back to where they are supposed to be. Hoses all connected. Turned the key and..... VROOM!!
Let it run for about 30 seconds then shut it down and exhaled. Started it again and let it run longer, bout 10 minutes. Shut it down and checked for any obvious leaks. Couldn't find any. Some light smoke coming from around the firewall area but nothing major. It could be from the heat paint on the headers.
The BOOO part: I started it again put it in gear to move it out into the sunlight - ya know, give it some vitamin D. Went into gear fine but when I went to reverse to maneuver out the barn door, it was like the shift lever was disconnected. UGGHHH! Now the poor thing doesn't know what gear it's in and I can't start it.
So it's off to the Transmission forum to start a new string.

There are still plenty of things I need to do yet. It sounds great with the headers, but the rest of the exhaust needs to be looked at, but the fact that it actually started and ran --- what a relief. Thanks to everyone for all your help. I'll be sticking around bothering you for awhile I'm sure.
 
Update and a couple of questions:
Been driving around on the back roads, working out the kinks. Exhaust repair and brakes are next on the update list.
I have a terrible exhaust leak on the driver's side header-to-crossover. I've tried a couple of time to eliminate, but no success so far. When I do replace the exhaust system from the crossover back, I figure I'll tackle it then - or take it to a muffler shop and have them do it (which was a suggestion from one of the guys here).
Questions:
1. Should I get an original equipment cat converter or a universal type? The difference is about $200.
2. After about 10-15 minutes of casual driving, i get a check engine light and the engine seems to want to stall. Pressing on the accelerator makes it worse. Letting it idle without giving it gas for a about 30 seconds to a minute and the problem disappears. Since it isn't plated or insured I don't wnat to drive it to AutoZone for a code check. If I buy an OBD tester, which type should I purchase? I read that OBDII testers won't work with my 94 ranger. AutoZone may rent one, but I like tools.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
You have a massive exhaust leak, you answered your own question. O2 sensors can't read the oxygen level of the exhaust when there's no exhaust getting to them. The truck is running like crap because the sensors are not reading anything and therefore cranking up the fuel mixture.

You don't need a scanner to pull codes on a 1994. Go to the tech section and it has the procedure for getting codes from a pre obd2 system. You just jump one of the pins and the check engine light flashes the code. (I don't know the exact procedure but like i said, its in the tech section).
 
Found a great local auto shop here in Yale, MI - Hilltop Auto. Totally old school. His shop is a wreck - in a good way. Five older model Pontiacs in various states of restoration. He's taking care of my exhaust problem. I've tried three different times uninstalling and re-installing from the headers and crossover back with no joy. Decided to let someone who knows what they're doing to fix it for me. I'm feeling shamed :cry:
 
Got the girl back yesterday. It's all good. Turns out that the crossover - in the opinion of Hilltop - was not welded correctly and there was no way to get both sides to fit properly into the headers. One side would tighten up. but the other would not. So they remade the crossover. Installed a stainless exhaust with OEM cat. Only thing left for me to do is find the right size pipe plug to seal the EGR inlet on the driver's side header. It's metric -- pppfffftt. I've tried two Dave at Hilltop tried a couple. I've contacted Hedman but no response yet. The odd thing is that it isn't showing any codes. I thought it might show a rich code -176 or 177, but nothing. Attached a pic. Brakes and rear diff seal are next.
20200626_202343[1].jpg
 

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