I know I shouldn't...but can I?

[19Walt93]

I'd also suggest thoroughly flushing the cooling system before you start and cleaning the engine compartment. If you have a pressure washer that's great, I use a cleaner called Incredible Pink, Pink Stuff, or something else similar, depending on where I buy it, and my hose to spray it off after it sits a few minutes. It's the same cleaner I use to get brake dust off my wheels and clean white letter tires. It has a strong smell but works good.

 

[rumblecloud]

Yup, I was just reading thru the posts in the 4.0 forum on flushing, so that will be one of the steps. I'm pretty sure the water pump has a leak at the pulley so that'll get replaced as well. I'm really curious about reverse flushing from the heater core - never ever would have thought of doing that.

 

[RonD]

Yes, reverse flush heater core when you are doing your engine work

But also swap heater hose positions at the firewall every year or two so you reverse flush while driving, it helps core last longer
Its the same for any vehicle

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Yes, reverse flush heater core when you are doing your engine work

But also swap heater hose positions at the firewall every year or two so you reverse flush while driving, it helps core last longer
Its the same for any vehicle

Must you be so good at everything?! ?

 

[RonD]

Must you be so good at everything?! ?

I am not, just have a really good spell checker

 

[rumblecloud]

I'm gearing up for this head job (stop it) and I know that at least one of the head bolts on the driver's side is deformed to the point where the Torx driver is not going to work. When I get to that bolt, what are my options?

I know I can grind the head off, but then what? Drill it out? Helicoil? Thanks

 

[Dirtman]

I'm gearing up for this head job (stop it)

 

[RonD]

Well if you take the top of the bolt off then the engine head can come off and the shaft of the bolt will be there and not tight so just visegrip it

Try to grind a slot in the bolt, then use an impact driver to unscrew it, do this BEFORE loosening any of the other head bolts

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Bolt buster is the option if you have the scratch. Otherwise if it were me I'd chalk it up to snowballs chance in hell of getting it off with hand tools, and grind the head off carefully with a die grinder. Pull the remaining bolts, remove the head, and use a combo of heating the bolt stem (MAP gas works) but not the block, and hitting where the threads are in the block with silikroil or a penetrating oil when it's hot AF. Should break loose in a few rounds of that.

If not, replace entire engine with 2.9 or 5.7 hemi.

 

[rumblecloud]

yeah, I figure it'll be a little bit of all of the above - except the Bolt Buster - i'd rather the hemi swap.

Should get there by Monday...can't wait....pppppphhhhhttt

 

[rumblecloud]

Not quite at the heads yet, but almost. It's slow going when you're working your way through the rusted nuts and bolts, trying to decide what to sacrifice and how hard it would be to find a replacment. So taking my time and so far no real damage 'cept to one of the heater hoses and only to about an inch or so at the block end.
I can see where getting to the right side rear head bolt may be an issue because the big 'ole heater thingy is in the way. Will know better once the coil pack and wires are out of the way -- today maybe if it warms up a bit.

 

[rumblecloud]

Getting down to the head removal and have a couple of questions:
1. Why the F am I doing this...oh wait...that's not one of the questions..
2. The mice got hold of one of the plugs. I know I can solder in new stuff, but is that ok?

3. How do these air conditioning lines come apart? I have no clue (about a lot of things, but this one in particular)

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Getting down to the head removal and have a couple of questions:
1. Why the F am I doing this...oh wait...that's not one of the questions..
2. The mice got hold of one of the plugs. I know I can solder in new stuff, but is that ok?
View attachment 39390
3. How do these air conditioning lines come apart? I have no clue (about a lot of things, but this one in particular)
View attachment 39391

1) I don't know, either. If it were me, I'd be replacing it with a 2.9.
2)no harm in it. solder away.
3) same tool as the fuel lines. Get the plastic kind, usually come in a blister pack. Metal tool they sell is useless. In an emergency, a sharpie cap will work if you trim it and slit the side

 

[rumblecloud]

More progress today. All the head bolts are loose 'cept three that were too corroded for the torx driver. They are on the driver's side along the bottom from the firewall out - of course. Got one out to turn before it gave up the ghost. So tomorrow I'll start with the grinder. Not looking forward to that. I just hope I can get into the small space, specially near the firewall. I don't have all the tools so I'm kinda wingin' it. Maybe Autozone has something.
I have a cutoff tool, but that's kinda big. Well, we'll see tomorrow.

I never thought I would get this far, so I'm pretty amped up.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Die grinder and a carbide bit

Harbor freight chief is a good one.