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How are rear blinkers supposed to perform? (1989 2.9L automatic)


You could have gotten some bulbs with a manufacturing flaw. I would verify that you're buying g the correct bulb - usually a 4 digit number like 1157, for example. Then take the bad ones back to the store and exchange for good bulbs.
 
Yes, 1157 bulbs would be what was used in 1989 tail lights

Front used 1157(park/turn) as well or 1157A, A means it has amber(yellow) glass not clear glass bulb

These are the insert and turn to lock bulbs

In later years Ford went to the "wedge" bulbs, like 3157 or 4157, these just pushed in, and were held in place by the wedged shape
 
Yes, 1157 bulbs would be what was used in 1989 tail lights

Front used 1157(park/turn) as well or 1157A, A means it has amber(yellow) glass not clear glass bulb

These are the insert and turn to lock bulbs

In later years Ford went to the "wedge" bulbs, like 3157 or 4157, these just pushed in, and were held in place by the wedged shape
These are the 1157’s. There were two price points of the same model bulbs at the store. The $7 pair and the like almost $20 pair. Maybe the cheap ones are just incorrect, but then everyone who buys them would have the same miss-connections and their lights would be messed up. You’d think this would show up in “the reviews” haha. I’ll go to the store and eyeball the other ones and see if I can draw any conclusions. Stupid to order some when they may also be this way so at least I can try checking in person. If they look the same, time to move on and just mod the socket wiring..
 
Well the 1157 sockets are spring loaded so "in theory" the socket contacts could shift positions since they are not attached to the cylinder, although I have never had that happen

And BOTH sides are the same, fit, loose and contacts are off?

You can get sockets for these: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Socket-Signal-Harness-Adapter/dp/B01N32HY48/?tag=959media-20
So you’re saying the contacts are on their own little disc that could maybe have shifted over time/use? That’s interesting. I’ll go ahead and check for that. It’s possible they rotated so much that they are now almost 180.
And yes, they both do this. I didn’t measure or anything, but at quick glance I checked enough to see that they’re both aligned to the entry orientation of a bulb as opposed to being aligned to the twist-locked position a few degrees over.
Maybe I’ll order that set of connectors instead of attempting to fasten the bulbs in place DIY style.
 
The two pins are not at the same distance from bottom of socket. Make sure that youre not 180 out.
 
I remember back playing with turn signal relays in high school auto shop. its very rudimentary. Basically a metal coil, copper I think, that heats up from voltage to expand and retract as it gains and loses contact. Not sure what newer vehicles use, but if you have turn signal relays, that might be the problem. It looks like a round metal cap in the fuse panel.
 
I remember back playing with turn signal relays in high school auto shop. its very rudimentary. Basically a metal coil, copper I think, that heats up from voltage to expand and retract as it gains and loses contact. Not sure what newer vehicles use, but if you have turn signal relays, that might be the problem. It looks like a round metal cap in the fuse panel.
I think, from what has been written in the thread, we have this narrowed down to a bulb/socket problem. Especially since he's only reporting a problem with the rear.
 
I think, from what has been written in the thread, we have this narrowed down to a bulb/socket problem. Especially since he's only reporting a problem with the rear.
I chimed in before reading lol
 
I chimed in before reading lol
I do that, too, sometimes. Usually on the word game thread. I'll see something, type a response, then figure out there are 2 more pages in between.
 
I can not confirm, nor deny, that the wrong model 7225 bulbs were stacked in the 1157 shelf, thus making it 50% the fault of the store employee, 50% my fault for not paying attention to the package marking.
I also can not confirm, nor deny, that I simply bulldozed through the shopping process and it is 100% my fault.
We’ll never know. But it’s at least 50% my fault.
I am open to being tarred and feathered for wasting everyone’s brain space.
I will add, in my plea for sympathy in this sentencing, that 7225 bulbs are identical except for the tiny pins register the bulb differently, explaining all of my problems.
Lights work great!
 
Thanks for the update and THE FIX

Not a waste of time, you done good on follow up and solving the issue
 
I can not confirm, nor deny, that the wrong model 7225 bulbs were stacked in the 1157 shelf, thus making it 50% the fault of the store employee, 50% my fault for not paying attention to the package marking.
I also can not confirm, nor deny, that I simply bulldozed through the shopping process and it is 100% my fault.
We’ll never know. But it’s at least 50% my fault.
I am open to being tarred and feathered for wasting everyone’s brain space.
I will add, in my plea for sympathy in this sentencing, that 7225 bulbs are identical except for the tiny pins register the bulb differently, explaining all of my problems.
Lights work great!
Good job. Thanks for letting us know what the issue was.
 
The important thing is....problem solved.
 
friendly FYI
the 4 way flashers activate the brake lights. that way you can turn the flashers on (:shok: ) and do a walk around to check front & rear bulbs.
Public service announcement:

That test works on Rangers, but not on some other vehicles. Chevrolet/GMC full-sized pickups in the early 1990s had separate flashers and fuses for the turn signals and the four-ways, even though they operated the same filaments in the rear lights in North American models. The brake light circuit shared the fuse with the four-ways. You could have turn signals working properly, but the brake lights and four-ways could be out.

It happened on my late dad's 1992 Silverado. The four-way flasher fried and blew its fuse, and I was driving for who knows how long without brake lights. But the turn signals worked fine.

A quick way to check your rear lights is go to a strip shopping center, park across from the store windows with the rear facing the windows, and watch the reflection of your lights in the store windows. Works for checking the brake and backup lights as well. You can even use your rear view mirror to see so you don't have to strain your neck.
 

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