Going full circle

[RobbieD]

When I've done AC work on my trucks, the scissors type didn't work (I think they're too blunt to get under and spread the spring), whereas the plastic wrap-around ones did work. It seems to work best by pushing the joint together while at the same time pushing the tool into and under the spring. A little twisting of the lines also helps.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The joint can get packed with dust. Pressurized spray bottle of liquid alternating with air has helped me get them apart.
The plasting clips work best for me too. The scissor type never did.

 

[Ranger850]

IIRC, there are 2 scissor types, giving 4 size options total.

 

[Josh B]

The othere ones look like liitle top hats with a slice on one side. IMO, much easier to work with.
View attachment 98101

37000 Air Conditioning / Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set

Easily Disconnects Air Conditioning Lines and Quick Connect Fuel Lines.

www.lislecorp.com

Do these need a handle or tool to use them with?
Can I find these at AZ or Oreilies? Home Depot? HF ?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Do these need a handle or tool to use them with?
Can I find these at AZ or Oreilies? Home Depot? HF ?

Don't need a handle or tool. Should be available at any auto parts store.

 

[RobbieD]

The tool doesn't really need a handle. All it does is push the circular spring back out of the way to unlock the fitting coupling.

I would think they're easy to find; I got mine like 40 years ago off the tool truck.

 

[Josh B]

Thanks fellas, I'll get some first chance.
Seems the weather turned hot again here today. I got some wheel seals to checkout my front bearings and get it started towards winter ready so first chance I should get on that.
Winter weather will be closing in the next couple months and I'd like to get that motor moved tween the summer heat and winter cold

 

[Uncle Gump]

It's called a garter spring...

I most always shoot some lube from a can into the spring cavity... then blow with compressed air before trying to insert the tool. And yes... push and twist the coupler together... insert tool fully and twist them apart.

Some can be a struggle. I have a few different spring lock coupler tools... I like the plastic ones on the rack about the best.

 

[Josh B]

My ignition switch has begun acting like it could soon fall apart.

I've been wondering how I was going to address this issue and got a wild idea

The switch on the 96 Explorer works well, and has the door locks included, guess I could drop the Ranger locks there to maybe keep it closed up.

Is this a viable option? or would it require the entire wiring harness to go with it

 

[sgtsandman]

My ignition switch has begun acting like it could soon fall apart.

I've been wondering how I was going to address this issue and got a wild idea

The switch on the 96 Explorer works well, and has the door locks included, guess I could drop the Ranger locks there to maybe keep it closed up.

Is this a viable option? or would it require the entire wiring harness to go with it

I’m not sure what you are asking. Are you asking if the key fob will work your door locks if you switch the ignition switch?

 

[Josh B]

My ignition switch in the 93 Ranger seems to be preparing to fall apart. If I just get another switch it will have two different keys.

The doors and switch in the 96 Explorer are all good and I wondered how feasible would it be to use those in the Ranger

 

[sgtsandman]

My ignition switch in the 93 Ranger seems to be preparing to fall apart. If I just get another switch it will have two different keys.

The doors and switch in the 96 Explorer are all good and I wondered how feasible would it be to use those in the Ranger

That’s what I thought you were asking. The locks themselves would be the same as well as the ignition cylinder. Ford has used both in a lot of their vehicles if not all.

As far as the electronic portion, I don’t know if the harness is there to plug in the switches and if they would be the same connectors. My 1998 didn’t have the harness in the doors.

 

[Josh B]

The 93 Ranger has no alarm at all but the 96 has some anti theft features but I know little of it
I'm not worried about alarms or anything just long as the key works

 

[RobbieD]

I've replaced the mechanical ignition switch in of one my '94 Explorers, as it was "falling apart" like yours, and it only came with one key. So I looked into it, and here's the deal; it should be the same dope for your '93 Ranger- single key that works ignition and doors.

It's called a "10-cut key" system. Cuts 1,2,3,4,6 work the ignition switch cylinder and cuts 5,7,8,9,10 work the door lock and glove box cylinders. Both groups of lock cylinders share cut 6, which is why a a Ford dealer sells replacement ignition cylinder based on the depth of cut 6 (there's five cut depths, or 5 total possibilities).

Like this:

I'm not sure how compatible the lock parts from a '96 Explorer will compare to a '93 Ranger. A little parts number comparing on a website like RockAuto may help you there.

What I did on my Explorer, sounds crazy (I'm sure the counter people thought I was crazy) but I went around the local parts stores and asked to look at the new replacement switches that they had in stock. Sure enough, I found one with the same cuts as mine, just in the wrong positions. A new cylinder will have keys that are only half cut, for the ignition part:

What I had to do was take both old and new cylinders apart and rearrange the six tumblers in the new lock to match my old lock.
Kind of aggravating, precise work but actually really easy; take tumblers out of your old one in order and rearrange the new lock tumblers to match:

After putting the reassembled new cylinder back in, my old (single) key would start the truck. Then I went by a locksmith, bought two more new blank keys, and had him cut them to match my original key. The ones that came with the new cylinder won't work after repinning the cylinder

This was about 7 years ago; it was $19.25 for the new cylinder and the locksmith charged me $4.89, and most important to me, it all works like it should, and I now had 3 keys.

Might be an option for you, as compared spending a pile of $ to have a locksmith do it all. I'm just not sure about the '96 Explorer parts being the same.

 

[Josh B]

Well Robbie, that sure gives me plenty to think about.
I guess I'd better start studying into the mechanical portion of it so I can tear it down and put it back if I have to use it
I've never had the column in any kind of disassembly but I've had the dash partly dismantled