So... There may be something to this glyptal thing. Shot one of the test pieces with wd40. Lolz. Beaded off.
I can see where the advantage is now, if only from a hygiene standpoint alone.
Cologne hates dirt. If inside of engine is slick as shit and not surfaced like cast iron, internal combustion gasses cant stick to stuff. Nothing sticks to this stuff. Like. Nothing. So, oil does its cleaning job effectively because dirt can no longer hideand cling.
Other thing I'm seeing is top end should love this. No dirt means happy lifters and clean rocker shaft bores.
I'm fussy about oil after my Mobil 1 "incident" and was trying to avoid Dino to save on sludge, dirt, and varnish. And now... I'm probably going to run only conventional, because no sludge and no dirt, and lots of zddp. Game changer for oil options and longevity of the engine in all aspects.
Hoping this fixes a cologne trouble spot. I've ripped a few 2.9s apart, and common to engines with rockers that look like sh*t is thst the underside of the lower intake will be full of tar. The lower manifold gasket prevents oil return, and the lower gets decades of crankcase garbage baked into it. I have one that's been soaking for weeks in aluminum safe cleaner trying to clear it. Nope. So, eliminate the sludge trap. When I do reassembly, I may try a few drain holes in the lower. Now that I can drain stuff back to the filter, let's see how it looks in a year now that oil vapors can condense and gtfo. Sure, could be said that glyptal may hold a little heat in the lower. Sludge holds more.
Methods are easy. Organic brushes only. Trust me. Had to clean the block back out. Harbor freight horsehair acid brushes or chip bristle brushes. There's parts I painted with a Blick artist brush in the lifter Valley.
Xylene is a good solvent if you get it early. Guessing late too. That stuff is harsh.
Did a tew tests with it. Baked the timing cover to "set" the paint (2hr, 260F) to the metal. Definately changes it for the better. They were right, this sh*t is like it iron when it cures.
Was said in a YouTube video that the paint needs to be baked on, but the instructions on the can are for armatures, the paints intended purpose. It lists baking as optional. It's not. You have to bake for engine application.
Need to dry before bake. I didn't do two weeks between coats, just a few days. Color changes when it's ready for recoat.
Did try to bake for three hours at 220, hotter than engine Temps could heat the timing case cover for three hours to see if engine heat could cure it. It did not.
Will be interesting to see what oil changes are going to look like.
Can promise you my diffs and trans will be getting this as well.
The only question remains.
Now that I'm almost done.
Would powder coating have been an equal option?