Glyptal Engine Paint

[Dirtman]

No fingers for you!

 

[19Walt93]

I think it wants to be a Caterpillar when it grows up...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

@Jim Oaks middle finger reaction button.... please....

The early 260's/289's were black with gold valve covers and air cleaner... and when they leaked it drove people nuts trying figure out what was leaking. Wouldn't yellow be better?

And for interior engine paint, John Deere paints the interior of their engine blocks and transmission cases a dull yellow, everybody else uses a dull red.

 

[Dirtman]

My 289 is gold...

 

[19Walt93]

Chevy went the other way with their grenades(small blocks), after years of orange they switched to black to make it harder for customers to see oil leaks.
I really like those old short gold valve covers but the won't clear my roller rockers without expensive spacers.

 

[JohnnyO]

The glyptal stuff is more of a rubber dip than an actual paint. It dries into a super tough rubber, be pretty hard to get that stuff to chip or peel. When I painted with it, it was a pain to clean up the spots were it accidentally got onto sealing surfaces cause a razor blade could barely cut through the stuff.

I dunno, race engine builders use it. If earning your living depends on your motors not blowing up, I suppose it's okay to use.

 

[bobbywalter]

I've never done it because of the possibility of the paint peeling and getting into the oil. It's supposed to speed up oil drain back, I've opened drain back holes and ground off casting flash with a die grinder to get similar results. No engine that has proper maintenance will have sludge build up, painted or not. If I was going to paint inside an engine, I'd strip it down, have the block boiled at a machine shop, then wash the whole thing down with brake clean to try and insure good adhesion.

well...remember this parameter.

this is a high performance forced induction build....with an engine that dont like that shit.

i absolutely would use glyptal on it. glyptal is not regular old house paint. and painting an unprepped surface and expecting acceptable results is patently retarded.




glyptal...if you use it....blueprinting and block preparation via die grinder and local blasting are key, hot tanking at a minimum...more then one run at that...i would assume is given..

i guess this is the point of a thread...to get the due diligence/bibliography and personal experience. i guess i should have been more explicit to that end instead of assuming people would actually not be stupid enough to go ahead and paint the inside of a dirty engine.

i sure as fawk would not expect such from shawn.

No engine that has proper maintenance will have sludge build up,

what is this based on? 70k 100k 150k? 250k miles.

proper maintenance i would gauge as written in the owners manual.

anything with a functioning egr system (fortunately some 2.9's dont have them) is going to have sludge build up. the 2.8 is understandable with the back to back ex valves but the 2.9 not so much.


the flanged vc gasket cooker heads on these particular critters make periodic cleaning of the cooked on sludge proper maintenance...??

and i would say so. but not listed in the owners manual. shop vac and scraping at 150 k when changing leaky ass vc gaskets is par.

 

[Dirtman]

well...remember this parameter.

this is a high performance forced induction build....with an engine that dont like that shit.

i absolutely would use glyptal on it. glyptal is not regular old house paint. and painting an unprepped surface and expecting acceptable results is patently retarded.




glyptal...if you use it....blueprinting and block preparation via die grinder and local blasting are key, hot tanking at a minimum...more then one run at that...i would assume is given..

i guess this is the point of a thread...to get the due diligence/bibliography and personal experience. i guess i should have been more explicit to that end instead of assuming people would actually not be stupid enough to go ahead and paint the inside of a dirty engine.

i sure as fawk would not expect such from shawn.










what is this based on? 70k 100k 150k? 250k miles.

proper maintenance i would gauge as written in the owners manual.

anything with a functioning egr system (fortunately some 2.9's dont have them) is going to have sludge build up. the 2.8 is understandable with the back to back ex valves but the 2.9 not so much.


the flanged vc gasket cooker heads on these particular critters make periodic cleaning of the cooked on sludge proper maintenance...??

and i would say so. but not listed in the owners manual. shop vac and scraping at 150 k when changing leaky ass vc gaskets is par.

 

[bobbywalter]

View attachment 40772

creepy joe mements.


dirtman was my camp counselor back in ghey camp. if he offers you cookies.....DO NOT EAT THE COOKIES.!.!

 

[Dirtman]

creepy joe mements.


dirtman was my camp counselor back in ghey camp. if he offers you cookies.....DO NOT EAT THE COOKIES.!.!

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

well...remember this parameter.

this is a high performance forced induction build....with an engine that dont like that shit.

i absolutely would use glyptal on it. glyptal is not regular old house paint. and painting an unprepped surface and expecting acceptable results is patently retarded.




glyptal...if you use it....blueprinting and block preparation via die grinder and local blasting are key, hot tanking at a minimum...more then one run at that...i would assume is given..

i guess this is the point of a thread...to get the due diligence/bibliography and personal experience. i guess i should have been more explicit to that end instead of assuming people oplkwould actually not be stupid enough to go ahead and paint the inside of a dirty engine.

Two hot tank runs, one electrolysis tank run at 69 amps over whatever volts my welder runs for 36 hrs, soda blasted, and deburred with a carbide.

Wasn't aware of the (assuming media) blasting though. Damnit. Block is already honed. Been staring at the valley and the Eastwood website for days.

I may still do it at least in the valley, inside of the valve covers, etc etc. All the oil spray areas that tend to build up crap over a period of years.

Or not. Scared shitless of the stuff peeling off and clogging something. I know my luck with paint - everything I paint, well, turns out like shit.

 

[bobbywalter]

Two hot tank runs, one electrolysis tank run at 69 amps over whatever volts my welder runs for 36 hrs, soda blasted, and deburred with a carbide.

Wasn't aware of the (assuming media) blasting though. Damnit. Block is already honed. Been staring at the valley and the Eastwood website for days.

I may still do it at least in the valley, inside of the valve covers, etc etc. All the oil spray areas that tend to build up crap over a period of years.

Or not. Scared shitless of the stuff peeling off and clogging something. I know my luck with paint - everything I paint, well, turns out like shit.

oh....i fully expected you to electrocute the poor bastard....and carbon fiber bonding vs archaic gyptals or something....

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

oh....i fully expected you to electrocute the poor bastard....and carbon fiber bonding vs archaic gyptals or something....

Steel drum on that one haha

Hey, at least it was a Mobil 1 drum. Guaranteed ZDDP free!


Also, I prefer the term "shock therapy." I imbued it with electricity to make more gofasts

 

[Dirtman]

Two hot tank runs, one electrolysis tank run at 69 amps over whatever volts my welder runs for 36 hrs,

The answer is 20 volts.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

The answer is 20 volts.

Wait, that's it?

That's all that thing produces?