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Glyptal Engine Paint


Thats amps not volts. Open circuit voltage on a constant current welder is 20vdc.
 
well...remember this parameter.

this is a high performance forced induction build....with an engine that dont like that shit.

i absolutely would use glyptal on it. glyptal is not regular old house paint. and painting an unprepped surface and expecting acceptable results is patently retarded.




glyptal...if you use it....blueprinting and block preparation via die grinder and local blasting are key, hot tanking at a minimum...more then one run at that...i would assume is given..

i guess this is the point of a thread...to get the due diligence/bibliography and personal experience. i guess i should have been more explicit to that end instead of assuming people would actually not be stupid enough to go ahead and paint the inside of a dirty engine.

i sure as fawk would not expect such from shawn.










what is this based on? 70k 100k 150k? 250k miles.

proper maintenance i would gauge as written in the owners manual.

anything with a functioning egr system (fortunately some 2.9's dont have them) is going to have sludge build up. the 2.8 is understandable with the back to back ex valves but the 2.9 not so much.


the flanged vc gasket cooker heads on these particular critters make periodic cleaning of the cooked on sludge proper maintenance...??

and i would say so. but not listed in the owners manual. shop vac and scraping at 150 k when changing leaky ass vc gaskets is par.
I thought I should mention hot tanking before coating with glyptal because I've seen posts on here talking about engines being "rebuilt" without changing the rings. No properly maintained engine will have sludge in it.Period. If there's sludge the oil hasn't been changed frequently enough or the wrong oil was used. The only well maintained engine I ever saw sludged was over 30 years ago, it was a 3.8 V6 in an LTD driven by one of our jobber salesmen who did constant stop and go driving and insisted we use the Oilzum brand oil he supplied. After 42 years in a Ford service department I've seen inside a few engines.
 
I thought I should mention hot tanking before coating with glyptal because I've seen posts on here talking about engines being "rebuilt" without changing the rings. No properly maintained engine will have sludge in it.Period. If there's sludge the oil hasn't been changed frequently enough or the wrong oil was used. The only well maintained engine I ever saw sludged was over 30 years ago, it was a 3.8 V6 in an LTD driven by one of our jobber salesmen who did constant stop and go driving and insisted we use the Oilzum brand oil he supplied. After 42 years in a Ford service department I've seen inside a few engines.

Yeah I know this 42 years background you have......and why I asked for clarification.


There is no 2.9 over 150 k without sludge in it....or most any engine run on gasoline. So I think what your calling sludge and what I am calling sludge.....are not the same goo.

Leaded fuel engines and old school tier 2 oil are a totally different deal.
 
If the oiled parts are coated with black slime, that's sludge. I've seen heads pulled off 300's-usually in company trucks that got no care- that were so sludged up the pushrods stayed in the head and had to be tapped out with a hammer and V8's with the oil drain back holes in the lifter valley plugged so the oil would build up and leak by the valve seals causing smoke. I've also seen 200,000 mile engines torn down that looked like new,slippery parts. I have heard that switching oil brands can cause sludge but don't know if I believe it. Back when we were selling 2.9's almost nothing got to 150k before the road salt ate it.
 
Well clearly washing your truck with salt water is easier than painting the inside of the block!
 
**** it.

Ordered it this morning from Eastwood .

Some risk. Some chance of reward.

Won't know till I try.
 

So, baking this stuff on is apparently critical for an engine environment. Good to know.
 
Doesn't the ummm engine do the baking on its own? I never baked it on.
 
Dunno. Prep is done on block, heads, timing cover, and lower intake.

Thinking about using it on the inside of the oil pan as well. Have a quart of the stuff, so, can't see a reason why not to do it.








Except that I used a rubberized coating on it last time called "outlast."

Stuff is tough as nails once it sets up, but chips and comes off easily for the first month or so it's on. So, my oil pan is going to be a study in chemical strippers because it's chipped to hell and back.

Not even the electrolysis tank or blast cabinet running aluminum oxide will touch this crap....
 
So...... This crap is weird.

_20200502_213701.JPG


_20200502_213725.JPG




First coat is on half of the block, lower intake, and timing cover.

Stinks like hell, hard to lay down, gets freaking everywhere, and dries as you put it on.

Still have to do the heads and inside of the block, but progress has been made.

Definitely need to pick up some artist's brushes for around the lifter galleys, etc. Missed a few spots because every damn brush I had was too big.

Oh, and I've used absolutely none of this can. Joy.
 

So, baking this stuff on is apparently critical for an engine environment. Good to know.

NERD!!!

Yes, I watched entire video. I’m not that dedicated to my vehicle projects. I’m just above average like the majority of the people on this forum.
 
yeah....i pay to have that shit done. worth every penny.
 
well, i pay for the machining and hot tanking too. and the balancing.
 

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