Dropped Ranger to Prerunner build!

[Svrdram]

Hey guys, newbie here. I've got a a dropped 02 that I'm pretty decided that it's time to turn it into a prerunner. I've been riding bikes and q uads since I was a teenager, now that I'm in my 30s I would like to play in the dunes and be in something rather then be on it. Now mind you I'm not sure what I'm doing here but let's just say that I don't have a problem with fabrication.

The Ranger.

Current build, my Ram.

 

[MastuhWaffles]

Sounds like fun, but how crazy do you want to go? Something that gets out there and gets dirty and still makes a good DD, or something that gets towed on a trailer?

 

[Svrdram]

I'd like something that I could still DD but with that being said I have a warped sense when it comes to what is a DD. Drove a bagged out ACR neon with a full cage for 3 winters while my f350 sat in the garage, and currently been using the Ranger as my DD (winter add all) with only 3ins of ground clearance lol.

But what I am picturing is a full bed cage, trailing arms and coil overs out back, front engine cage and some long travel arms. I'm not apposed to running rear leafs if the price is significantly less then a trailing arm setup yet still contains good handling. And to be 100% honest, this might only see the dunes several times a year. I just want something that I can have fun with and still drive.. Though about building a 2 seat mini buggy but don't want to store it.

Figured since I'm always wanted a prerunner and have the Ranger as the perfect platform to just go with it.

 

[MastuhWaffles]

Well, suspension wise, you can do deaver springs in the back and a small bedcage, but you will have to cut a hole in your bed keeping some space, or you can do a cantilever which will keep all your bedspace. The front you need to have the big shocks and coils with bumpstops and limit straps. I plan on getting my stuff here. http://www.dixonbrosracing.com/
But you're going to have to get bulge fenders, unless you want to say bye bye to the ones you have now, and probably some racing seats so you don't go flying around in the cabin. And defiantly a front and rear tube bumper with a spare tire carrier. But you might have to ditch the fiberglass bed.

 

[Svrdram]

Thanks for the reply. I have thought a lot about that as well. Got a friend wwho's buddy owns a prerunner shop up here "Griffen Fab" who said that he can build me my arms. Normally I would have no problem with taking on the challenge but I don't know much on this long travel stuff. I would be building the engine cage and bed cage myself. Since we have limited parking in the parking lot of the dunes it's easier to roll in dune ready so I have had an idea about building a bed cage that would allow me to put the quad in the bed to get it to and from the dunes (about 3 miles from camp). I have also thought about using the stock sides and just moving them out, doing alil pie cutting to the front of the step, add some glass and paint.

 

[doyouquaxu]

I'd like something that I could still DD but with that being said I have a warped sense when it comes to what is a DD. Drove a bagged out ACR neon with a full cage for 3 winters while my f350 sat in the garage, and currently been using the Ranger as my DD (winter add all) with only 3ins of ground clearance lol.

But what I am picturing is a full bed cage, trailing arms and coil overs out back, front engine cage and some long travel arms. I'm not apposed to running rear leafs if the price is significantly less then a trailing arm setup yet still contains good handling. And to be 100% honest, this might only see the dunes several times a year. I just want something that I can have fun with and still drive.. Though about building a 2 seat mini buggy but don't want to store it.

Figured since I'm always wanted a prerunner and have the Ranger as the perfect platform to just go with it.

to properly link your truck and get good geometry, you'll need a fuel cell to be able to properly locate the upper link mounts on the frame. a full bed cage is required and at that point, you'd be wise to cage the entire chassis from front to back to add strength to keep the back from bending up.

the easier route if you're set on links is the giant motorsports daily driver link kit. it allows you to keep a stock fuel tank and frame and whatnot. or you can get their 64" spring kit, it's as close as you can get to linking your truck without all the work (which means cheaper). that spring kit still gets 19-20" of travel and is the kitten's mittens for leaf springs.

for the front end, dixon brothers is no longer in business. the company has been sold and will supposedly be starting again soon out of Las Vegas. but their kits are only for the torsion bar trucks as it is. call or email camburg, ask for carlos and say mac sent you. he will set you up with a front kit or answer any of your questions to get you what you need.

 

[Svrdram]

I have actually been lookingat the "weld yourself" link kit and would probably make my own upper bars. I have a spare 15 gallon fuel cell that I might use (would be nice if iI could get my stock sender to fit it). I have no problems with cutting off the rear frame section and building a whole new rear half. As for a full cage, I have put some thought into that as well. I'm not ready to cage the entire truck as of yet but iI will be installing removable clevis's in the bed cage for easy connection to the cab in the future.

 

[MastuhWaffles]

You could also trade those wheels for some beadlocks. Also roof racks and bed bars for lights are something to think about, or throwing them on the front bumper. They have lots of choices now, such as rounds or led bars, I personally prefer the rounds just because of that classic look I've always loved. Oh and I think doing the square side mirror swap would be pretty sweet too.

 

[Svrdram]

Wheels are already gone. Just rocking the factory xlt rims now. I would probably pick up a Total Metal Innovations beadlock kit. I have a friend who has done a few sets without an issue.

 

[MastuhWaffles]

Wheels are already gone. Just rocking the factory xlt rims now. I would probably pick up a Total Metal Innovations beadlock kit. I have a friend who has done a few sets without an issue.

I don't think beadlocks are that necessary, I have alloy baha wheels and they work great, beadlocks just make them look better.

 

[doyouquaxu]

I have actually been lookingat the "weld yourself" link kit and would probably make my own upper bars. I have a spare 15 gallon fuel cell that I might use (would be nice if iI could get my stock sender to fit it). I have no problems with cutting off the rear frame section and building a whole new rear half. As for a full cage, I have put some thought into that as well. I'm not ready to cage the entire truck as of yet but iI will be installing removable clevis's in the bed cage for easy connection to the cab in the future.

You don't have to chop the frame. You can leave it as is, or 'pie cut' it so that it kicks up for more bump travel (suspension travel from ride height to full compression).
Example of pie cut frame:

You really should cage the whole truck. You're going through a lot of work to do the links, it's not much more for a cab cage in the grand scheme of things. If nothing else, it's a ton more safe what with all the crazy drivers and idiots on the roads.

baha

Really??