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adsm08's Ranger build up

What design should i put on my diff cover

  • Blue Oval

    Votes: 8 100.0%
  • A face (gimme more specific ideas)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Words (gimme a specific idea)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other (gimme a specific idea)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    8
  • Poll closed .

Don't stress, adsm08....I know that member from elsewhere, he's proven himself to be an idiot.

I'd already pretty well decided that for myself, but it is always nice to have confirmation of a theory.

I'm not worried about the strength of the welds, or the quality of the repair. The person helping me is a good friend who I have known and worked with for years, and was my field mentor while I was in tech school.


Glad I don't have frame issues. Looking good

Thanks. I wish I didn't have frame issues, but such is the nature of things. At the end of this I won't have issues, but I will have a lot of spare frame parts.

I am still thinking of using the rear section of the rails from my other truck to turn my BII into a pickup. :icon_welder::icon_welder:
 
BII truck.....DOOO EEEETTTT

It actually wouldn't be exceedingly difficult. The bed portion of a Ranger frame starts roughly where the BII frame ends. At that point is just a question of attaching the rails to each other, extending the drive shaft, relocating the rear axle and fuel tank. I was thinking of having custom saddle bag tanks made to fit the BII's rear wheel wells. I'd need to get a lift gate where the glass opens, other wise access to the area behind the rear seats might be difficult. But this is really a discussion for my Amazing Grace thread.
 
OK, back on topic.

Here is how I made sure the holes were on center.



I took the biggest bit that fit the hole and ran it in there just enough to damage the metal. It made a nice pilot.


And 6 drill bits later,


I have three nice holes spot on location.

For some reason this technique didn't keep my holes from getting off center, but what it did do was put the final one in exactly the right spot

And for those who were interested, here is what we were fixing to begin with.
 
I would love to do a ground up build like your doing. Keep up the good work.

Sent from my SM-G530R4 using Tapatalk
 
Been an interesting few days. I am going back to regular old manifolds with this swap. I had a set for the SOHC engine that were in typical JY condition. Namely they had rounded off, partially cut bolts, and part of a Y-pipe stuck in them. So Saturday I did something that was very hard for me to do. I drilled some holes in my orange Snap-On box.

Then I put a vice on it.




Almost looks like it should be there.

Then I asked my new friend torch to come back and play with me. He came over Saturday but wasn't feeling well. About 3 seconds into torching Saturday the O2 regulator blew its main seal. So new regulator and new hoses, and I was back in business. I ordered an acetylene regulator too, but it won't be here for a few more days and the old one is holding, so I just went with it for now.






So Torch came over, and him and me and turbo socket ganged up on those manifolds.

One set of bolts out:


Two sets of bolts out:




And we must have scared everyone good because the EGR tube came off the valve and manifold nicely with just a bit of heat.



Also got some presents today. New flywheel and Y-pipe.

Y-pipe will be bolted up, even, and sealed properly before the engine even hits the chassis.

Back to undercoating the cab. Duplicolor makes a nice rubberized spray, but don't play around with the regular stuff, grab the Pro one in the white can. It costs a bit more but goes on much nicer with fewer drips and splatters and covers a bigger area.
 
Back to work.

The cabs switched hoods:




Engine out, in record time at that:


The wife and I managed to cook and eat dinner, pull the engine, bath two kids, and get one to bed in the space of a little more than an hour. Go teamwork.

See, no engine.


Little helper:

This was after his bath and before his shower.

For all those who are interested, this SOHC in a TTB chassis is looking more and more possible every day. These are pictures of the 2.9/4.0 OHV brackets bolted to the SOHC block. Honestly, looking at the casting stuff on the outside of the block it wouldn't surprise me to find out you can build a SOHC engine out of an OHV block.




I had a mini heart attack moment when trying to bolt that second bracket on. I couldn't get it to line up at all, then I realized that I was holding the bracket from the other side of the OHC engine. Durrr...

Anyway, I think this is going to fit. I will know for sure tomorrow. I measured the pans tonight, and my numbers might be a bit off due to eyeballing some of the lines, but it looks like the SOHC pan is an inch deeper at the deepest part, which is away from any interfering crossmembers.
 
The wife and I managed to cook and eat dinner, pull the engine, bath two kids, and get one to bed in the space of a little more than an hour. Go teamwork.

Impressive!
It must be the little helper....
 
For all those who are interested, this SOHC in a TTB chassis is looking more and more possible every day. These are pictures of the 2.9/4.0 OHV brackets bolted to the SOHC block.

Anyway, I think this is going to fit. I will know for sure tomorrow. I measured the pans tonight, and my numbers might be a bit off due to eyeballing some of the lines, but it looks like the SOHC pan is an inch deeper at the deepest part, which is away from any interfering crossmembers.

They definitely fit and will run off an EEC-IV OBD1 Computer and harness.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD6KCQm_nIo :icon_thumby:
 
Holy freaking BAWLS, its gonna work.

For any who happened to doubt that the SOHC would fit, which is a camp I fell into until very recently, here it is.



Obviously it isn't in the vehicle yet, but that is the 4x4 TTB cross member bolted to the engine.

Now I need to come up with some accessory brackets. The alternator bracket almost fits. It could probably be clearenced to work, but the PS/AC bracket is 100% a no go.
 
Last edited:
Holy freaking BAWLS, its gonna work.

For any who happened to doubt that the SOHC would fit, which is a camp I fell into until very recently, here it is.



Obviously it isn't in the vehicle yet, but that is the 4x4 TTB cross member bolted to the engine.

Now I need to come up with some accessory brackets. The alternator bracket almost fits. It could probably be clearenced to work, but the PS/AC bracket is 100% a no go.

I like this way of checking fitment! Clever.

Been quietly watching to see the SOHC swap. Had a local friend that told me it was possible with just an OHV 4.0 harness and computer, it just skips a few sensors.

Looking good:beer:
 
Boom!


Engine cross member.

Bam!


Hanging frame.

AHHH!!!


Wide angle shot of hanging frame.


Saturday we got the last pieces that needed welded onto the frame welded. There is still some repair needed to a few body brackets.

Today I hoisted it up on the straps and removed said brackets. Then I replaced all the rest of the nuts that are not coming off for now with lock nuts. Tomorrow, if time allows, I am going to re-paint the whole frame. Then Tuesday I should be ready to start putting axles in. Probably only going to get the front in as the rear is still in the other truck. Then on to engine, trans, wires and brake lines. I picked up some goodies at work tonight, left them in the garage without taking pics though.
 
Friday:



Fuel lines modded:

Yes, I clamped those down.

Here is a picture of an engine.


Here is another picture of that same engine.


Here is the same picture with a wider angle.


Here is how I did up the power steering pressure line:

I cut and flared the original 4.0 SOHC pressure line.


Then I hooked it to a coiled section of brake line:


Mocked up the belt to see if anything was going to be in the way. It won't since I am not running AC.

BTW, the belt listed for the 4.0 SOHC without AC is way too long. The system at the store calls for an 810 (Advance and Napa both have the same listing). The belt I got to fit finally is a 715.

This is what I did Saturday:



We dug 100 foot trench 2 feet deep to run new electrical service to my friend's "garage".
 
The friend owes you a bunch of beer. Around here, the "soil" is mostly clay. A hundred feet of 2 foot deep trench is a major job by hand. When it's dry, it's granite hard. When wet, it sticks to the shovel and weighs a ton.

Your truck is coming along nicely. I'm enjoying your thread.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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