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adsm08's Ranger build up

What design should i put on my diff cover

  • Blue Oval

    Votes: 8 100.0%
  • A face (gimme more specific ideas)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Words (gimme a specific idea)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other (gimme a specific idea)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    8
  • Poll closed .

Heh, I still owe my friend. In addition to having more man-hours in this truck than I have in that ditch, she is responsible for teaching me a large portion of what I know about cars. 10 years ago she was my mentor tech at the dealership while I was still in school. It wasn't just the two of us either. There were 5 people working in mostly soft dirt. We didn't hit any clay until the last 20 feet. Up to there the only real problems we had were getting around the cement base of the post in the picture and about 5 feet from the garage we hit an old rubble wall foundation. That was fun to get through.
 
It's looking good! Idk if I'd trust that copper line. It'll shake and eventually break imo.
But yeah, unless you were repaying a favor, he owes you beer!


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Geez, I haven't checked on this for a while and it sure has made progress since...

I think it would make a great confirmation of the saying "Great Trucks are Built...not bought"...or whatever it was...the slogan I used to see on TRS all the time.

Nice ratchet strap hanger...:)...I guess it's only a couple of hundred pounds without anything attached to the frame.
 
It's looking good! Idk if I'd trust that copper line. It'll shake and eventually break imo.

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I am not worried about that line. It is ni-cop brake line, and it should be able to take the pressures just fine. As for it breaking due to engine/driveline vibrations, that is why it is coiled instead of just bent and run straight to the fitting. A coil in a solid line gives it the ability to flex a little. That is why brake lines right off the master cylinder were coiled before flex lines became common.
 
Took some body mount brackets to get a little :icon_welder::icon_welder: tonight.

I only took before(ish) pics of this one, but the other side looked pretty much the same.






I'm not sure why they are called "fender" washers, they don't look like fenders at all, but they sure work well for body brackets.
 
I don't know why they're called fender washers either. I must've put a dozen in my Ranger and the fenders are still dirty as hell.
 
Well I got the engine running today. Took me about three days of fussing and tweaking, and chasing wires, but I got it. But not after it got me. I was out playing with it about 11:30 last night, trying to figure out why I had no spark, testing it with the screw driver as I went. Well when I got spark I didn't find out with my eyes. Zap went right to my head, I hate it when that happens.

I got video, but it isn't showing up in photobucket yet. It has an exhaust leak, maybe some air leaking somewhere (I hear a sucking) and it seems like it has a small misfire, but it does run.
 
That's awesome, you're flying on this thing now!


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That's awesome, you're flying on this thing now!


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It does kinda feel that way now. So many months of what felt like agonizingly slow progress, even though I know some people here, and a lot of people I talk to face to face about this think it was a lightning-fast build, and now this week it feels like everything is falling into place. It's all gonna come to a grinding halt for a few weeks though.

I am eyeing the 30th for putting the cab on. I have some new mounting hardware on order from LMC, which will be here in a few days, but my schedule won't allow me the time and day light, when my other 5 people are available for putting the cab back on.
 
I am not worried about that line. It is ni-cop brake line, and it should be able to take the pressures just fine. As for it breaking due to engine/driveline vibrations, that is why it is coiled instead of just bent and run straight to the fitting. A coil in a solid line gives it the ability to flex a little. That is why brake lines right off the master cylinder were coiled before flex lines became common.

Yeah, Oriellys was playing it up as the new big thing for brake lines when they dropped off their flier this week. Supposed to be easily bent by hand and not rot like steel.

I would say you are flying with this thing, I can't wait until I am as far along as you.
 
I have used the Ni-copp for brake lines for several years already and I love it. It is easy to form, the smaller stuff, 3/16 and 1/4 are harder to kink, the 3/8 line still kinked easier than I would have liked. What I really love about it, and the big reason I prefer it over traditional steel line is flaring. Since the metal bends easier it is easier to get a good flare, and you don't have to crank on stuff as hard.

When I has making those steering lines I bent the T handle and messed up the screw on my flare kit (Blue-Point, not crappy parts store stuff) doing the steel end. I barely put in any effort doing the copper ones.
 
So today I had a few of my closest friends/family/people who owe me favors over. We worked on the Ranger a bit.












Still a lot of work to do though. There is no interior yet, and the heater box will need modded a hair.



It doesn't quite fit.

I am going to have to do something about the hood too, it will cause some clearance issues with the intake and PS reservoir, but I have a line on a 1st gen cowl induction hood, already black and everything. Best part, my brother in law is on a sprint car team with the guys who own the yard. He is going to see about getting me a deal on it. If that falls through I am going to look into maybe making a ram-scoop hood. I know ram-air is really only good for extra drag, but it will look cool.

I have a few videos to put up too, but they haven't been uploading properly. I will get them in here once I figure that part out.
 
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Y'all made it look easy.

Lookin good!

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