302/351w how big can i stroke it

[Shran]

Yeah, the gas idea seemed not that great.

In the comments someone mentions not using WD40 because the stones load up and there's another comment about using water instead. Water is a terrible lubricant though. Google says honing oil, ATF, or kerosene/engine oil mix work well.

 

[scotts90ranger]

hence using a lot of it... like I said, all on expected outcome, I'm normally going for less bad or marginally reasonable...

 

[Shran]

Less bad is good!

I have honed out a bunch of wheel cylinders and usually just use whatever can of liquid is nearby. Usually WD40 cuz I have a lot of it but I've tried PB blaster, 3-in-1 oil, garage door lube... anything that is soluble in brake cleaner afterwards seemed to be fine.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yeah, the gas idea seemed not that great.

In the comments someone mentions not using WD40 because the stones load up and there's another comment about using water instead. Water is a terrible lubricant though. Google says honing oil, ATF, or kerosene/engine oil mix work well.

I watched the vid. I didn't see where he said he was using gas. Maybe I missed it. I can remember a buddy of mine cleaning a carb over a pail of gas. He was smoking while doing it. Freaked me out a bit. But you need stoichometric (speling) fuel/air ratio and an open flame or spark for ignition.

 

[Shran]

I watched the vid. I didn't see where he said he was using gas. Maybe I missed it. I can remember a buddy of mine cleaning a carb over a pail of gas. He was smoking while doing it. Freaked me out a bit. But you need stoichometric (speling) fuel/air ratio and an open flame or spark for ignition.

9:45 he mentioned wiping the walls down with gas and I am assuming that's what is in the bottle on the table that gets squirted in later. I swear there was another video in that series where he specifically said "I use gas while honing" or something to that affect but I'm not going to re-watch them all to find it.

One interesting thing I found in another video (from someone else) was the recommendation to wash anything like this in soap & water afterward - cylinder walls, brake rotors, etc. I would never have thought to do that but it makes sense.

 

[thunderuncle244]

Looking at what I paid for my stroker vs getting a crate motor it's about even... Buying a crate motor means you're not nickel and dimed about all the hardware the previous owner of the core stole/lost.

Pay outright more for a 408 stroker that was run-in at the factory or spend a year researching and building your own. I could have spent this summer at the race track instead of waiting for delayed cylinder heads and returning pistons the machine shop couldn't balance without putting mallory in the used crank.

When you choose the components yourself you can get a bit more performance by selecting for your needs. It's way too easy to brainstorm a forever project instead of actually having a running and driving project car.

well i know what you mean but i want to by hand select and handle everything

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

well i know what you mean but i want to by hand select and handle everything

This can also be innuendo.

 

[thunderuncle244]

the reason i think a crate block could be good is i have no question about it being clapped and torn up just start completely fresh

 

[thunderuncle244]

This can also be innuendo.

bud what you think im handling?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

bud what you think im handling?

 

[thunderuncle244]

 

[scotts90ranger]

Lol...

I tried not to derail but it happens and at least somewhat on topic... I put just enough effort into redoing the 5L in my Explorer and did everything myself (even ground the valves myself...), at 250k it was just ready for a refresh, sure I could have probably gained a couple percent power adding more money and doing it more correctly but meh... cam, headers and valve springs will hold me over for a while... sure would have liked to do a 347 at the time but didn't want to spend another couple grand at that point... it's at least to a point to where I could get a tuner and move the rev limiter up to 6k and gain way more than anything else...

Getting engines runable isn't rocket surgery like a lot of people think, getting every last HP out is more of a science though... that's not how I roll though . Being who I am I build to the point it isn't cost prohibitive, if I get an oil leak or have a minor issue I try to make shortcuts that won't be catastrophic but more weekend projects. That's why I stick to roller cams and stockish builds for the most part

Just don't get too deep into trying to do stuff right where you screw it up like the 351 that was in my boat... a shop rebuilt the engine, bored it out and changed pistons and everything but you can see the piston rings in the bores with the short block assembled, still has crosshatching... what took the engine down is they reamed the valve guides out and put oversize non stainless valves in the dang thing and it stuck two valves, bent the pushrods... heads are expensive, even getting these heads reworked with new guides and valves was going to be like $700 WITH A DISCOUNT... labor is expensive... I wish they'd just taken more shortcuts and kept the stock valves, sure it would burn a little oil but it wouldn't have bent pushrods!!! not like it doesn't burn oil when the pistons are floating around... whatever, I lost a cubic inch and gained like 30hp switching to a vortec 350 lol.