2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I pulled the harness to the passenger side. Most to everything is unplugged. Some of the connectors (On the harness) are broke and one on the drivers side broke because the connector was melted/fused together....

Ive pulled out most to all of the crap out of the passenger side fender but some things are still there. Since it was getting late and dark.
If yall could help me with cleaning the harness up and getting everything ready to be connected to the duraspark. Ill post photos tomorrow as Im gonna start working on it tomorrow...

 

[RobbieD]

I'm pretty sure that the passenger side wiring harness is removed completely, as are all of the vacuum lines (wires are, well, wires, and vacuum lines are the hollow plastic tube thingys : ) ). Disconnect your battery (you always do this on this kind of work). Disconnect everything that the passenger harness goes to; here's mine laid over the fender, and notice how everything was tagged with masking tape, even though it was going bye-bye:

Pull the passenger plastic kick panel trim, and remove the engine computer, and it's bracket. Loosen the bolt and unplug the big computer connector. Push the grommet out and pass the big connector through the firewall (I used a new blank grommet to plug the hole).

After the wiring harness is out of your, remove the remaining vacuum lines, vacuum solenoids and the vacuum reservoir (the big black can). When you get done your passenger fenderwell should look like this:

I'm not sure what you have left on your engine, as far as sensors and actuators, but here's the truck side pile of junk I had when it was all out:

At this point, you'll need a beer.
We'll talk about the smaller harness on the driver side later- first question, which ignition control module did you decide to use, Ford or GM?

Other questions for later:
Are you making an EGR valve blockoff plate?
Does your truck have air conditioning?
Is your truck auto trans, or manual?
Did you have a history of mental illness, before you decided to do this?

Just kidding on the last one. Congratulations on taking the plunge; it'll be OK.

 

[MadMax_636]

I'm pretty sure that the passenger side wiring harness is removed completely, as are all of the vacuum lines (wires are, well, wires, and vacuum lines are the hollow plastic tube thingys : ) ). Disconnect your battery (you always do this on this kind of work). Disconnect everything that the passenger harness goes to; here's mine laid over the fender, and notice how everything was tagged with masking tape, even though it was going bye-bye:

View attachment 40246

Pull the passenger plastic kick panel trim, and remove the engine computer, and it's bracket. Loosen the bolt and unplug the big computer connector. Push the grommet out and pass the big connector through the firewall (I used a new blank grommet to plug the hole).

View attachment 40247 View attachment 40248

After the wiring harness is out of your, remove the remaining vacuum lines, vacuum solenoids and the vacuum reservoir (the big black can). When you get done your passenger fenderwell should look like this:

View attachment 40249

I'm not sure what you have left on your engine, as far as sensors and actuators, but here's the truck side pile of junk I had when it was all out:

View attachment 40250

At this point, you'll need a beer.
We'll talk about the smaller harness on the driver side later- first question, which ignition control module did you decide to use, Ford or GM?

Other questions for later:
Are you making an EGR valve blockoff plate?
Does your truck have air conditioning?
Is your truck auto trans, or manual?
Did you have a history of mental illness, before you decided to do this?

Just kidding on the last one. Congratulations on taking the plunge; it'll be OK.

So EVERYTHING on the passenger side can go straight into the can? Only Thing that matters is the stuff on the drivers side under the brake booster and clutch hydro BS? If so, thats good to hear! SInce Im glad to toss that ECU BS straight into the bin aswell!

Im going with the GM since No yards have any fords older than the late 80s. Plus, All of the yards are dumb and chop the harnesses to get the engines out.... I learned that when I went to get parts for my 1987 Celica.

I dont drink so Ill drink a redbull. haha. 25 years old and dont drink lol

Never thought about making a block off plate unless its needed
I do have AC but it doesnt work.
My truck is a manual
and Yes lol

 

[RobbieD]

Don't throw anything away, yet. Wait until you're well done with the conversion and are sure that you don't need any of the parts.

GM module noted; I don't know anything about it, but I'm sure that you'll have more help jumping in on that part.

I'm not sure about just leaving the EGR as-is; in one write-up the guy made a sheet metal plate and put under the EGR valve. On mine it was easy to make a steel replacement plate, and I wanted the motor cleaned up, without any unused junk still on it. On the exhaust manifold I disconnected the pipe and plugged the port.

Noted, and noted, on the AC and trans. When are you supposed to have all of the parts?

 

[franklin2]

I took my EGR valve off to check it, and lo and behold someone had been there before me and had already made a solid metal gasket to block it off. I got tired of looking at it sticking up in the way in front of the carb, so I took it off, took a hacksaw and sawed off most of it, and then bolted what was remaining back onto the manifold with the solid block off gasket.

When you take all that wiring out on the pass side engine compartment, there will be one or two power wires that will have to undo from the solenoid or the battery cable. They supplied power to the computer system through a relay that you will take out also.

You have to carefully unwind the wires going across the engine. The computer wires over the years can get tangled in the alternator wiring, and a few of the other wires for the temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge. Find your temp sending unit, it will be on top of the engine with a single wire going to it. find your oil pressure sending unit, I think it's over the side of the engine down low. Labeling these with tape like the other poster mentioned is a good idea in case they come loose.

You will have some large vacuum lines going to the top of the carb, and then going to some silver looking round things. I would keep this and keep it hooked up for now. It's not going to work properly at first, but that can be a later project. The one silver thing going to the front of the carb should have a red wire going to it which you can keep, and another ground wire going to a carb bolt. These are part of the evap system.

 

[MadMax_636]

Don't throw anything away, yet. Wait until you're well done with the conversion and are sure that you don't need any of the parts.

GM module noted; I don't know anything about it, but I'm sure that you'll have more help jumping in on that part.

I'm not sure about just leaving the EGR as-is; in one write-up the guy made a sheet metal plate and put under the EGR valve. On mine it was easy to make a steel replacement plate, and I wanted the motor cleaned up, without any unused junk still on it. On the exhaust manifold I disconnected the pipe and plugged the port.

Noted, and noted, on the AC and trans. When are you supposed to have all of the parts?

Im hoping to get all of the parts soon. I havent ordered anything yet since Idk what all in tales for the GM thing. Ive got everything ready to be ordered though. All in my cart.

 

[MadMax_636]

I took my EGR valve off to check it, and lo and behold someone had been there before me and had already made a solid metal gasket to block it off. I got tired of looking at it sticking up in the way in front of the carb, so I took it off, took a hacksaw and sawed off most of it, and then bolted what was remaining back onto the manifold with the solid block off gasket.

When you take all that wiring out on the pass side engine compartment, there will be one or two power wires that will have to undo from the solenoid or the battery cable. They supplied power to the computer system through a relay that you will take out also.

You have to carefully unwind the wires going across the engine. The computer wires over the years can get tangled in the alternator wiring, and a few of the other wires for the temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge. Find your temp sending unit, it will be on top of the engine with a single wire going to it. find your oil pressure sending unit, I think it's over the side of the engine down low. Labeling these with tape like the other poster mentioned is a good idea in case they come loose.

You will have some large vacuum lines going to the top of the carb, and then going to some silver looking round things. I would keep this and keep it hooked up for now. It's not going to work properly at first, but that can be a later project. The one silver thing going to the front of the carb should have a red wire going to it which you can keep, and another ground wire going to a carb bolt. These are part of the evap system.

Yeah, I didn't label anything. I just unplugged and put to the side. Im also pretty sure my oil, temp, and other sending units dont work. Im going to be installing aftermarket gauges and new sending units once I rebuild the motor. Since Ive never had the temp light turn on or the gas light. The oil light has flitered when I ran 20w50 for like a week but never since I put 10w40 in her.

Main reason I didnt label anything was because a lot of the wires were broken, brittle, and a few connectors broke... So yeah.

Idk if I messed up on that part. None is tossed in the can yet. Its either in the bed of the truck (the air can) or in the floor of my cab.

 

[RobbieD]

@franklin2 - thanks for jumping in, man. I'm pretty sure that MadMax has changed the carb already, so we'll probably need pictures to see what all is left of his original carb parts.

 

[MadMax_636]

@franklin2 - thanks for jumping in, man. I'm pretty sure that MadMax has changed the carb already, so we'll probably need pictures to see what all is left of his original carb parts.

the original carb is gone. the POwner had Jb welded it to "fill/fix" cracks in the top hat and bowl... So I HAD to replace it. I went with a amazon special 300CFM motorcraft carb. Its a non feedback.

 

[franklin2]

the original carb is gone. the POwner had Jb welded it to "fill/fix" cracks in the top hat and bowl... So I HAD to replace it. I went with a amazon special 300CFM motorcraft carb. Its a non feedback.

I will be curious to see how that carb works on this engine. I am wondering if it would be a improvement over the original computer carb I am running on mine. Though I can't really complain, mine runs pretty good as is.

You guys need to read that link I posted about using the GM module. Though all you really need is the diagram in the article. Not much to it really.

 

[MadMax_636]

This is the state of the engine bay.

Here is the carb.

 

[MadMax_636]

I will be curious to see how that carb works on this engine. I am wondering if it would be a improvement over the original computer carb I am running on mine. Though I can't really complain, mine runs pretty good as is.

You guys need to read that link I posted about using the GM module. Though all you really need is the diagram in the article. Not much to it really.

When you say the link. Are you talking about the ford mopar one? The main issue is that I have zero idea of what the cables/harnesses are on the drivers side. Like how to hook up everything. Ive seen and studied a few diagrams about how to wire it up but it still leaves a lot of questions unanswered. Like which wires are to the ignition switch, what to do about the sending unit cables, and so on.

Mainly since I unplugged stuff not really know what it was or does. It would probably be easier if I did the duraspark box but im doing the GM since I cant really do the duraspark. I might spend the $80 (that steep) for the painless harness If the reviews on the blue boxe clones werent so bad or talked about how many times theyve died.

 

[MadMax_636]

Everything is ordered.

 

[franklin2]

Why is that large grey plug laying there empty? You need all those wires. They go to the alternator and your sending units, everything you need on top of the engine.

To run the GM ignition, you need the white looking wire on the round plug, and a red/green on the square plug.

 

[franklin2]

See that brass fitting sticking down in the picture below? That is the hot air fitting for the hot air choke on that carb. I don't know how that choke is working without it hooked up, it's probably not working very well. That is definitely different than the stock carb, hopefully your new carb has a full electric choke. If it doesn't or you need to still use the carb below we can help you rig it up to work.