1988 302 aod swap questions

[Dieseldale]

Looking for links to threads from people who have done a 302 swap with a vacuum aod. What cross member did you use? Any problems faced when swapping this in?

 

[prymetime1]

Looking for links to threads from people who have done a 302 swap with a vacuum aod. What cross member did you use? Any problems faced when swapping this in?

Hey bud, u can check my thread for v8 swap info. I used a c4 transmission but I was able to use my stock crossmember, just te drilling where it mounted, u can probably do similarly with an aod. Question for u. When u say vacuum aod, u are referring to the early versions that are not the electronically controlled aode, correct? I'm interested in that set up also so I will be following. One thing to mention is that header clearance between the frame rail and bell housing will be tight.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Dieseldale]

Hey bud, u can check my thread for v8 swap info. I used a c4 transmission but I was able to use my stock crossmember, just te drilling where it mounted, u can probably do similarly with an aod. Question for u. When u say vacuum aod, u are referring to the early versions that are not the electronically controlled aode, correct? I'm interested in that set up also so I will be following. One thing to mention is that header clearance between the frame rail and bell housing will be tight.



Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yes the early non electronic controls. This is a build for my first truck. Thanks for the help

 

[bobbywalter]

no such thing as a vacuum aod.


throttle valve. very picky unless you go to fixed pressure valve body.



its a trans cross member, make it how ever you want.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I am 2 for 2 using the stock crossmember with the factory A4LD transmission mount.

Different style crossmember than yours and different transmixers though. C5 and M5ODR2

 

[Bird76Mojo]

I used an 1992 Thunderbird AOD at first, then went T5Z. Here's what I know from the install on my 87 2.0 5spd single cab shortbed.

-You will have to flatten the pinch seam in the trans tunnel.
-The AOD dipstick might be able to be modded to work but after attempting to fill with sand and heat/bend, it was going to require too much bending to clear the firewall and headers for my tastes. I ended up buying a Lokar AOD dipstick that worked perfectly. It's for sale by the way..
-Everything will depend on what engine mounts and plates you use, and the overall forward/rearward placement of the engine. But you can place the engine where needed to make your stock crossmember work.
-My stock crossmember worked but I had to alter the bolt holes/slots in the crossmember due to the tranny mount I used.
-You'll have to research dimensions of various rubber or poly trans mounts if you want to buy a new one for the AOD that'll bolt in. Look on manufacturers websites for that info.
-The Hedman 88400 headers will hit the AOD but it's easily clearanced with an angle grinder and flap disc. No problems whatesoever.
-My stock 2.0 5spd standard cab driveshaft bolted right in with the proper front yoke installed.
- I still used the original trans crossmember with the T5Z but I had to modify the bolt spacing again on the center trans mount section. Super easy.
-Rick's Rangers offers a nice crossmember on Ebay that allows for lowered trucks to go even lower, but I think it's needs additional gussets installed for ultimate stiffness.

Here are some pictures of the Hedman 88400's mounted up to an E7 head 302 from a 92 Thunderbird with the AOD. The transmission's internal pressures are controlled via the TV cable that attaches to the throttle cable bracket on the efi 302. All of those parts are easily re-used because they all came on the engine/trans to begin with. You can and will burn up your transmission if you don't set your TV pressure correctly before EVER trying to move it under it's own power. TRUST ME ON THIS. Why do you think I went to a T5Z lol

Passenger side

Passenger side showing slight interference with the AOD. That little tab on the bell can be smoothed off until it no longer interferes with the header, but installing and bolting down the exhaust will be tight regardless. Luckily, the Hedman 88400's 3 bolt flange can be rotated to the position that works well for the easiest access to the bolts/nuts.

Drivers side. I had to heat and bend the Thunderbird oil dipstick to fit inside the header. It was pretty easy. I taped off the ends with Gorilla duct tape and filled with dry sand. Heated the tube and bent it over various objects to get the diameter of bend I needed. Cleaned out using several cans of brake clean, soap and water, and compressed air to assure no grains of sand were left. Worked flawlessly.

The exhaust is my most hated part to service on this truck due to the clearances being so tight on the 3 bolt flanges at the header. I built a custom 2.5" stainless steel exhaust system with mandrel bends to an internal x-pipe Magnaflow muffler. These clamps are worth their weight in gold: https://www.ebay.com/p/Ttoem250ss-2...and-Clamp/16005218236?iid=161445619666&chn=ps

Hopefully some of that will help you in the future.



GB

 

[bobbywalter]

i use the truck diptube on the aod application.


trying to fill through the lokar makes you want to hang yourself.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

trying to fill through the lokar makes you want to hang yourself.

Didn't bother me in the least. I put 10 quarts through it more than once.




GB

 

[84tony]

I also used a 92 T-bird 5.0 with an AOD in my 84 Ranger std. cab long bed. I removed the factory trans cross member 83 & 84 (bolts inside frame) were different than 85+ (bolts outside frame). I mounted the engine using original V6 mounts and made a flat adapter plate for the 5.0, then I took a trans cross member from a 90 and bolted it to the transmission and raised it in place and welded the brackets to the outside of the frame. For exhaust I used 71 mustang 302 cast iron manifolds and a 65-68 mustang H pipe with no clearance issues, just a restrictive exhaust. I used the Lokar trans dipstick. The driveshaft from the T-bird went in with no modification other than swapping the flange that bolts to axle, ranger 7.5 & T-bird 8.8. I will be taking my 84 Ranger apart this winter, I plan on swapping out T-bird 5.0 and AOD for a 350+ HP 5.0 and a T5 five speed out of a 93 Mustang Cobra. I have purchased the Ricks Ranger trans cross member but have not gotten to the point of seeing how it fits yet.

 

[Dieseldale]

I used an 1992 Thunderbird AOD at first, then went T5Z. Here's what I know from the install on my 87 2.0 5spd single cab shortbed.

-You will have to flatten the pinch seam in the trans tunnel.
-The AOD dipstick might be able to be modded to work but after attempting to fill with sand and heat/bend, it was going to require too much bending to clear the firewall and headers for my tastes. I ended up buying a Lokar AOD dipstick that worked perfectly. It's for sale by the way..
-Everything will depend on what engine mounts and plates you use, and the overall forward/rearward placement of the engine. But you can place the engine where needed to make your stock crossmember work.
-My stock crossmember worked but I had to alter the bolt holes/slots in the crossmember due to the tranny mount I used.
-You'll have to research dimensions of various rubber or poly trans mounts if you want to buy a new one for the AOD that'll bolt in. Look on manufacturers websites for that info.
-The Hedman 88400 headers will hit the AOD but it's easily clearanced with an angle grinder and flap disc. No problems whatesoever.
-My stock 2.0 5spd standard cab driveshaft bolted right in with the proper front yoke installed.
- I still used the original trans crossmember with the T5Z but I had to modify the bolt spacing again on the center trans mount section. Super easy.
-Rick's Rangers offers a nice crossmember on Ebay that allows for lowered trucks to go even lower, but I think it's needs additional gussets installed for ultimate stiffness.

Here are some pictures of the Hedman 88400's mounted up to an E7 head 302 from a 92 Thunderbird with the AOD. The transmission's internal pressures are controlled via the TV cable that attaches to the throttle cable bracket on the efi 302. All of those parts are easily re-used because they all came on the engine/trans to begin with. You can and will burn up your transmission if you don't set your TV pressure correctly before EVER trying to move it under it's own power. TRUST ME ON THIS. Why do you think I went to a T5Z lol

Passenger side

Passenger side showing slight interference with the AOD. That little tab on the bell can be smoothed off until it no longer interferes with the header, but installing and bolting down the exhaust will be tight regardless. Luckily, the Hedman 88400's 3 bolt flange can be rotated to the position that works well for the easiest access to the bolts/nuts.

Drivers side. I had to heat and bend the Thunderbird oil dipstick to fit inside the header. It was pretty easy. I taped off the ends with Gorilla duct tape and filled with dry sand. Heated the tube and bent it over various objects to get the diameter of bend I needed. Cleaned out using several cans of brake clean, soap and water, and compressed air to assure no grains of sand were left. Worked flawlessly.

The exhaust is my most hated part to service on this truck due to the clearances being so tight on the 3 bolt flanges at the header. I built a custom 2.5" stainless steel exhaust system with mandrel bends to an internal x-pipe Magnaflow muffler. These clamps are worth their weight in gold: https://www.ebay.com/p/Ttoem250ss-2...and-Clamp/16005218236?iid=161445619666&chn=ps

Hopefully some of that will help you in the future.



GB

Thanks so much for the help, You cleared up all my problems!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

-The Hedman 88400 headers will hit the AOD but it's easily clearanced with an angle grinder and flap disc. No problems whatesoever.

How did it fit with the firewall? I have looked at mine and decided you about had to have a bodylift for the 88400's to work.

Normally the cab would be sitting 3" lower.

i use the truck diptube on the aod application.


trying to fill through the lokar makes you want to hang yourself.

And hard to read. Mine lived long enough for me to find a factory dipstick/tube. It didn't look as nice being secured to a valve cover bolt by a hunk of plumbers strap and a hose clamp but it worked much better.