Crate 302 or Junkyard 5.0 Swap into 1988 2WD 2.9L Ranger?

[RonD]

"Better in hock than Stock"

"Matching numbers" means, what they want for the part and what I am willing to pay for the part, MATCH

 

[Ranger850]

For all those hating on people that put another manufacturer engine in their vehicle... Call it blasphemy, sacrilege, or an unpardonable sin... It's their vehicle and they're footing the bill. Until you start shelling money their way, nobody cares what you think. Sad, but true. (Admit it, you started singing "Metallica")

This isn't a million dollar 427 AC Cobra, a 69-70 429 Boss Mustang, or a 2020 Shelby Mustang vin # 001. Vehicles like these would require an identical engine to keep most of the value. Think of all the hot rods that were made out of Model Ts with Chevy V-8s in them instead of a Ford flathead. Yes, in the 30s when hot rods first came out flatheads where the craze. But after the mid 50s the CSB where all the rage, FSB came out in the early 60s and some changed to that. You can hate all you want on CSB but they were popular and held up extremely well. It all depends on how it was built, just like any engine. If you build it loose, it will grenade, no matter the make.

I was thinking about putting a Nissan 5.6 in my D21 Hardbody but knew I would never find one for the price I got my LSX for.

It's all relative, you see it as blasphemy, while others see it as another gearhead modifying their vehicle. Just take it easy, don't overheat yourself and enjoy the thread.

While all of this is true, I would have to say that IMHO, a Nissan with a LS or SBC, or even a 5.0/302, is different than a LS/SBC swapped Ranger. Ford has plenty of motor options for engine choices to NOT put a Chevy motor in it. Just get an S-10 if you have a Chevy motor. Those things are practically everywhere and cheap as piss. You can probably get one with the engine bay already empty for less than $300. We both know the Hardbody's are drying up and are harder to find in decent shape, same with the Ranger. Good ones ain't cheap and cheap ones ain't good. Chevy's are a dime a dozen and throwing a cheap LS in a S-10 would deliver the same effect.

IF you drive a Ford Ranger with a Chevy engine, you're a Chevy guy, not a Ford guy. Ford guys run Ford motors in Fords. Chevy guys run Chevy motors in whatever POS they can cobble together.

EDIT: Yes, I did start singing Metallica

 

[19Walt93]

"Better in hock than Stock"

"Matching numbers" means, what they want for the part and what I am willing to pay for the part, MATCH

Ever notice at any car show with performance vehicles that the GM(mostly Chevy) guys have a sign with "matching numbers" on it but the Ford, Mopar, and even AMC guys don't bother? It's because no one would assume otherwise that the engine had grenaded and been replaced.
One of my techs raced a Monte Carlo around in circles and was building another new engine for it. He was talking about pink rods and I asked what he meant. Ford color codes a bunch of stuff so I figured they were different somehow, possibly longer. Nope. Pink rods are stock rods that have been magnafluxed so they probably won't break. Broken rods are common enough that Chevy created pink rods. From all the hours I spent waiting in the staging lanes with the sun baking my brain while the guts of another SBC were cleaned off the track, I can believe it.
At the same time, guys with stock bottom end 289's with too much cam would spin them 8000 rpm all day long.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Ever notice at any car show with performance vehicles that the GM(mostly Chevy) guys have a sign with "matching numbers" on it but the Ford, Mopar, and even AMC guys don't bother? It's because no one would assume otherwise that the engine had grenaded and been replaced.
One of my techs raced a Monte Carlo around in circles and was building another new engine for it. He was talking about pink rods and I asked what he meant. Ford color codes a bunch of stuff so I figured they were different somehow, possibly longer. Nope. Pink rods are stock rods that have been magnafluxed so they probably won't break. Broken rods are common enough that Chevy created pink rods. From all the hours I spent waiting in the staging lanes with the sun baking my brain while the guts of another SBC were cleaned off the track, I can believe it.
At the same time, guys with stock bottom end 289's with too much cam would spin them 8000 rpm all day long.

I actually think its more to do with the fact chevys are so interchangeable.

You can take a 4.3L S10 and bolt in a 454. Try that with a 4.0L ranger and a 460

 

[tayloru]

Gauges are analog up through 2003 Rangers, so don't worry about that, need 2 wires, temp and oil pressure, 3rd wire for Tach IF.........you go with distributor/carb, otherwise it comes from computer with EFI

Explorer will have all the small bits and front accessory pulley setup, plus exhaust system

Google: 302 build on a budget

You get a Crate engine without the crate price, local machine shops can do most of the work with the parts you provide
Take your pick of what you want on YOUR build, not someone elses idea of what YOUR build should be

Killer, thank you! I just found a MINT 1997 Ford Explorer 2WD with AOD and 5.0, with only 107k OG miles and the CarFax checked out to be pretty clean. It's almost to clean to rip apart to steal everything out of it, but whatever. Having a buddy go look at it for me today while I am out of town.

 

[RonD]

1997 Explorer 5.0l will have 4R70W automatic, just FYI

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Killer, thank you! I just found a MINT 1997 Ford Explorer 2WD with AOD and 5.0, with only 107k OG miles and the CarFax checked out to be pretty clean. It's almost to clean to rip apart to steal everything out of it, but whatever. Having a buddy go look at it for me today while I am out of town.

Buy the whole donor should be pretty straightforward

 

[tayloru]

1997 Explorer 5.0l will have 4R70W automatic, just FYI

Oh crap, you're right, I got confused. Think it'll cause any issues? IIRC My two scenarios might be a either jeep the factory EFI, or go carbureted and have to source a separate controller for that transmission I believe.

I did a ton of googling and YouTubing on 302 budget builds the last few days like you mentioned and I'm loving the process of learning.

Buy the whole donor should be pretty straightforward

Yep I think I'm just going to do that. Get it in my hands and then continue to learn as I go.

 

[19Walt93]

I actually think its more to do with the fact chevys are so interchangeable.

You can take a 4.3L S10 and bolt in a 454. Try that with a 4.0L ranger and a 460

That's a very charitable view but most often it's just a like for like swap because the original died.

 

[bobbywalter]

Installing a shitrolet engine in a ford (patent pending), weather a big block shitty or a small block shitty- is biblically known as the unpardonable sin. Some scholars believe it is blasphemy of the Holy Spirit but actually is is running any bow-turd from Generic Motors Corp power plant in a Ford automobile.

LS - loose sxxt
RS- runny sxxt
LT- liquid turd
Even the engine naming series is in the “toilet”. Terrible.


Do you see the problem?
“I LS swapped my Ranger!”
Not phun to admit, TMI if you ask me.

“I put a small block ford in my ranger!”
See how the inflection just leaves one with good vibes?

Henry Ford was a good man. Louis Shitrolet, not so much.


A proverb: If a transportation device should be birthed wearing a “blue oval” or with the birthmark on its parts of FoMoCo, it shall never partake of the Bow-turd of the plant of good and evil.

This is as it was taught for thousands of years and how it shall remain forevermore.

Buy a 302W and install it, It fits,it’s proper, you will find no shame among your peers and many will believe you are a scholar and a gentleman.

Car-Part.com still has a few low mile Explorer engines. That is where my 51k/2001hidden gem originated from.

Is there any question as to the sentiment regarding a cross-breed Ranger?……. Heresy.

titty reduction...... thats a problem.... not spending money and time wisely on the best bang for the buck.

 

[bobbywalter]

I dont recall ever owning anything with an AOD. Had many C6's and a few FMX's though.

Honestly if he didnt care about O/D an FMX wouldnt be a bad choice. Stouter then a C4 but lighter then a C6.

the fmx is not lighter then a c6..... the main body is cast iron.... but... it does have less parasitic drag. and it is a good unit for sure.....the aod is based on the fmx from the gear-train perspective.


i built aods for years because i had too...and like them for what they are. the 4r70 is the pinnacle of that bloodline and with a few select parts is a bad ass trans that exceeds any c4 or c6 for general use.


for what i do i need overdrive in my ranger....

the e4od/4r100 just uses too much power and makes too much heat and takes up too much space....and is HEAVY. the 4l80 bolts right to the diesel in my ranger.... it is better in every way except depth of overdrive...so that is what i use.... i would rather have a 6r80 over the 6l80...the ford is a better unit.. but not enough to warrant the effort.

but these days i want the 10 speed....and it may warrant the effort.

 

[bobbywalter]

Hey everyone,

I have been doing research for months now on V8 swaps into Ranger. This would be my first attempt at an engine swap. I have done many other things mechanically and electronically, but never torn an engine apart or taken one out of a vehicle. While I have tons of notes on the specifics, I still have some lingering main questions.

The Vehicle Overview:

• 1988 Ford Ranger XLT - Single Cab, long bed
• 2WD
• 2.9L V6 with automatic transmission

I really want to do this truck properly and show it the love it deserves. My grandmother, who bought the truck new in 88, gifted me this truck nearly 6 years ago and it of course has a lot of sentimental value to me. When it was passed along to me, it had only 84k original miles. Now, it's at 97k and the engine is on its last leg. I already replaced the transmission about 2 years ago when it went out - regretfully before doing any research and discovering the 5.0 swap.


Goals for the engine swap:

• Replace the unreliable 2.9L that's giving me issues
• Keep it automatic
• Be a daily driver/highway cruiser type truck
• Have reliability and increased power (around 275-300 hp or so)
• Remain fairly simple as this is my first time doing a swap
• Ideally - keep factory air conditioning & heating, etc.
• Ideally - keep all gauges etc, or be open to suggestions from other on digital gauges etc that would work
• Budget - remain at about $10k for everything (engine, trans, rear axle, etc). I do have some friends in the industry and can get certain things at discounts ranging from 10-40% off at places like Currie, Holley, etc)

Crate Engine Options & Considerations:
Would I be crazy to look into purchasing a 302 crate engine? Say from Blueprint engines, ATK, or even Moruzzi Race Motors? I would likely purchase something that is pretty much turn-key. I have noticed that prices have shot up dramatically since I first started doing research about a year ago. I'm not swimming in money, but I do really love this idea for the peace of mind and confidence in something that's well-built with a warranty etc. I'd like to keep it fuel injected as well and I see most are just using the Holley Sniper EFIs (which aren't compatible with an AOD transmission due to lack of kickdown)

My questions here are:

1. Is this in general a good or a bad idea? Is this more or less work than, say, finding a 97 explorer 5.0 engine + trans + harness and having a shop rebuild that setup?
2. How would the wiring for something like this EFI motor here? Would I need a standalone ECM and harness from a donor vehicle, or are there options online that I can pick up to mate into my existing truck?
3. If I opted for a carbureted engine like this, how does this impact the wiring complexity and the ability to match up nicely to the truck itself? I know they're much simpler in general, just not sure for any impact that might have on vehicle-specific swap.

Junkyard Options:
From what I can tell, it seems like the easiest option would be to find a junkyard 5.0 that's mated to the proper transmission and complete harness etc. If someone else were in my shoes, what would you choose between the two options, especially when considering the desire to have a nice motor that I can trust for a while and that makes a bit more power than factory? Junkyard and find someone to rebuild it?

Are there any particular Year/Make combinations that people recommend when looking for a junkyard 5.0? It seems like the 1997 Explorer is desired due to the lack of theft systems, etc. Any other recommendations?



Thank you all so much for your help! Please bear with me as I am doing my best using all of the search functions and reviewing all of the amazing tech articles and past questions people have asked!

if you had a 97 or newer ranger...the explorer swap just simply makes sense....especially with 300 hp daily cruiser goal. its a fargin bolt in.





but you have a gen 1 ranger.


2wd...makes it easier. but remember...


any stock 302 is only going to have half the power potential of a 5.3 without lifting the heads. period. the 351 is so choked its sad.....ford just hates our fanboy guts....if your a poor boy like me...ford just pisses down your back compared to gm....


my absolute favorite engine is the 340 mopar.

my number 2 favorite engine is the 351 windsor....but it holds a tie position...

trucks?

ford all the way....

so i am a ford guy.


and while the 351 is my number 2 favorite... it is tied with the 6.0 LS. the LS platform is simply my dream 351.

the LS is not the best thing out there....but it is the most cost effective.

i prefer the sound of a properly built 351 over the LS any day and twice on tuesday...... and the FE....and the modern hemi...and the modern coyote and the godzilla.


i have been installing v8 engines in rangers since the 80's....

the gen 1 can be much harder to work with depending on goals.

and i can say for sure it is not any different installing a 5.3 then a 302....save for the 5.3, depending on 2wd or 4x4 and whether or not you want ac... can be easier....and will be faster and more economical with stock powertrain swaps.



i meant what i said in my first post on page 1 .... the 302 is fine with your stated goals and budget....

the jist i got from the ensuing posts....you called the big budget guys and learned that lesson. you called the intermediate guys....and yup....your gonna need that 10 grand to do a whole fresh powertrain. freshening up a ford and adding the typical streetable hci is NOT cheap.


and that is just touching the power of a junkyard LS that you can do an nsr cam swap to.


its your time...and your money....and your adventure.


have fun.....ask questions. learn new skills.... take your time with the plan...and the execution will go quickly.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

if you had a 97 or newer ranger...the explorer swap just simply makes sense....especially with 300 hp daily cruiser goal. its a fargin bolt in.





but you have a gen 1 ranger.


2wd...makes it easier. but remember...


any stock 302 is only going to have half the power potential of a 5.3 without lifting the heads. period. the 351 is so choked its sad.....ford just hates our fanboy guts....if your a poor boy like me...ford just pisses down your back compared to gm....


my absolute favorite engine is the 340 mopar.

my number 2 favorite engine is the 351 windsor....but it holds a tie position...

trucks?

ford all the way....

so i am a ford guy.


and while the 351 is my number 2 favorite... it is tied with the 6.0 LS. the LS platform is simply my dream 351.

the LS is not the best thing out there....but it is the most cost effective.

i prefer the sound of a properly built 351 over the LS any day and twice on tuesday...... and the FE....and the modern hemi...and the modern coyote and the godzilla.


i have been installing v8 engines in rangers since the 80's....

the gen 1 can be much harder to work with depending on goals.

and i can say for sure it is not any different installing a 5.3 then a 302....save for the 5.3, depending on 2wd or 4x4 and whether or not you want ac... can be easier....and will be faster and more economical with stock powertrain swaps.



i meant what i said in my first post on page 1 .... the 302 is fine with your stated goals and budget....

the jist i got from the ensuing posts....you called the big budget guys and learned that lesson. you called the intermediate guys....and yup....your gonna need that 10 grand to do a whole fresh powertrain. freshening up a ford and adding the typical streetable hci is NOT cheap.


and that is just touching the power of a junkyard LS that you can do an nsr cam swap to.


its your time...and your money....and your adventure.


have fun.....ask questions. learn new skills.... take your time with the plan...and the execution will go quickly.

Yeah my bad. I thought the FMX was lighter then the C6 even with the cast iron case.

From what i see online the FMX is 160 and the C6 140.

I coulda sworn the C6 weighed more then that

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

IMHO, the biggest challenge to an Explorer 5.0/auto and keeping it EFI is the wiring. Lots and lots of splicing. Nothing is going to match up and the computer is located in the cowl of those, not the passenger footwell. If you’re afraid of wiring, probably not the swap for you. Carb is a lot simpler, but as the point of CA emissions was brought up, it may not pass muster.

If it was me, I’d probably opt for a junkyard motor and have it rebuilt locally as a 331. Headers and dual exhaust and call it a day.

That said, there certainly are other engine/trans options if you’re so inclined.

$10k will go fast.

 

[bobbywalter]

IMHO, the biggest challenge to an Explorer 5.0/auto and keeping it EFI is the wiring. Lots and lots of splicing. Nothing is going to match up and the computer is located in the cowl of those, not the passenger footwell. If you’re afraid of wiring, probably not the swap for you. Carb is a lot simpler, but as the point of CA emissions was brought up, it may not pass muster.

If it was me, I’d probably opt for a junkyard motor and have it rebuilt locally as a 331. Headers and dual exhaust and call it a day.

That said, there certainly are other engine/trans options if you’re so inclined.

$10k will go fast.

it costs me about 5 grand to build a sbf....doing most of the work myself. so...that being a value or not has to be the primary relative.



i assume your referring to running the eec5 system in a gen 1 system.

the wiring stays intact on the eec side with the v8. you just lay it over and hookup a few wires.

you stand alone the eec and keep whatever the truck uses for its ancillaries.

reverting back to an eec4 system or working with eec5 is well established.



and...its where many problems start with the 4.0 swaps....often they can be plug in play to an extent, and people try to make too much of a system work that is unnecessary...



but plug and play is not an option for a gen 1 with out doing it yourself.... both a blessing and a curse



going to a van processor and harness can really help depending on goals if you are fine with stock power or are trying to mitigate pats without a tuner.... there are sefi maf vans so there is alot of room for tuning.

when you get to elm type processors...like eec6...and coyote platforms where bus modules come into play...that is where the ms3 gold box really shines if you can find one.......but often running a 4 cam engine takes you back to hp tuners and hacking the oem system as your looking at 2 grand to run these things with aftermarket stuff all in...

its why the big 6 ecoboost swaps took so long.

there is more wiring to make it a carb setup then to make a factory gm engine run in it.