1985 ford ranger v6 AC

[RobbieD]

most i can do for now is get the parts ordered

That's a dealer-installed or aftermarket AC system. That's going to matter a lot on your parts ordering.

The big tells, are the expansion valve instead of the orifice valve, the insulating tape on the exposed hard lines, and the accumulator/drier behind the grill.

 

[franklin2]

To be frank with you no i am not a AC tech however doing my research i do know the tools i’d need and protocols to take etc.. what parts are what. Im still learning as we go, this truck is older so its not like i can just easily get it done. My dad knows alot more about it then i do since he went to school for it so im gonna have him give me a hand, most i can do for now is get the parts ordered. Obviously after flushing out the system, i dont think i should have any problems considering everything is there. I was told the truck was used as like a “shuttle” for towing behind trucks and stuff, and the compressor was removed
To save fuel economy apparently.

You do not need to be a A/C tech. Just bone up on it like you are doing, and you will make it. It might take a couple of tries, but it will still be way cheaper than paying someone to do it. Not knocking your Dad, but A/C techs must think they have magical powers for as much as they charge. That goes for the ones that work on the systems in your home also.

 

[ISX_15]

You do not need to be a A/C tech. Just bone up on it like you are doing, and you will make it. It might take a couple of tries, but it will still be way cheaper than paying someone to do it. Not knocking your Dad, but A/C techs must think they have magical powers for as much as they charge. That goes for the ones that work on the systems in your home also.

Yeah its not rocket science to me,, i do notice i cant find any service ports on the hard lines, unless im not looking hard enough?

 

[ISX_15]

You do not need to be a A/C tech. Just bone up on it like you are doing, and you will make it. It might take a couple of tries, but it will still be way cheaper than paying someone to do it. Not knocking your Dad, but A/C techs must think they have magical powers for as much as they charge. That goes for the ones that work on the systems in your home also.

But seeing what you’re seeing other than needing the compressor and flushing out lines etc, replacing o ring seals, replacing orphice tube, everything should work out? Climate worked afaik before i parked the truck just had no ac. Mixer and everything else was fine. Do i need to look into replacing anything else such as the gas and liquid lines or just free ball how it is? The lines dont look bad visually

 

[RobbieD]

If it were me, and I wanted to gamble on spending the least amount of money to see if the system works, I'd be inclined to:

1) Put a new compressor, drier and condenser on it.

2) Completely flush the hoses and evaporator. You need to get all of the old mineral oil out, and in doing so replace all of the o-rings from black to green.

3) Pull vacuum after reassembling, and ensure that the system will hold a vacuum (no leaks).

4) Charge it with new refrigerant, probably R134a and PAG oil (at least that was the norm a few years ago).

You don't have an orifice tube; that type of system uses an expansion valve (it wouldn't hurt to put a new one on while you're at it). A sensing coil is clamped to the evaporator outlet tube which monitors the temperature; that opens and closes the expansion valve on the inlet line as needed. That black putty tape covers the sensing coil.

I'd use the factory spec as a rough guide for the oil charge (I think it's 7 oz.).

That's not a "factory-installed" AC system. It's dealer-installed or aftermarket. The Ford dealership kits were aftermarket.

Those type of systems were charged by monitoring a sight glass in the drier. On your drier, the sight glass is under that black round sticker on top. Properly filled, when the clutch cycles, the refrigerant could be seen to foam then quickly turn to liquid only. Undercharged would have air bubbles remaining in the liquid while the clutch is engaged.

 

[ISX_15]

If it were me, and I wanted to gamble on spending the least amount of money to see if the system works, I'd be inclined to:

1) Put a new compressor, drier and condenser on it.

2) Completely flush the hoses and evaporator. You need to get all of the old mineral oil out, and in doing so replace all of the o-rings from black to green.

3) Pull vacuum after reassembling, and ensure that the system will hold a vacuum (no leaks).

4) Charge it with new refrigerant, probably R134a and PAG oil (at least that was the norm a few years ago).

You don't have an orifice tube; that type of system uses an expansion valve (it wouldn't hurt to put a new one on while you're at it). A sensing coil is clamped to the evaporator outlet tube which monitors the temperature; that opens and closes the expansion valve on the inlet line as needed. That black putty tape covers the sensing coil.

I'd use the factory spec as a rough guide for the oil charge (I think it's 7 oz.).

That's not a "factory-installed" AC system. It's dealer-installed or aftermarket. The Ford dealership kits were aftermarket.

Those type of systems were charged by monitoring a sight glass in the drier. On your drier, the sight glass is under that black round sticker on top. Properly filled, when the clutch cycles, the refrigerant could be seen to foam then quickly turn to liquid only. Undercharged would have air bubbles remaining in the liquid while the clutch is engaged.

Gotcha and where would the service ports be? Is one of them on the dryer?

 

[RobbieD]

Gotcha and where would the service ports be? Is one of them on the dryer?

Damned if I can remember that part.

I think that both ports were on the compressor in a lot of those old add-on kits, and in some the low port was on the drier along with the low pressure switch.

 

[ISX_15]

Damned if I can remember that part.

I think that both ports were on the compressor in a lot of those old add-on kits, and in some the low port was on the drier along with the low pressure switch.

Ill just see when it arrives ill figure it out its not rocket science lol, thanks for all the help. Waiting on dizzy so i can do ignition swap first

 

[ISX_15]

If it were me, and I wanted to gamble on spending the least amount of money to see if the system works, I'd be inclined to:

1) Put a new compressor, drier and condenser on it.

2) Completely flush the hoses and evaporator. You need to get all of the old mineral oil out, and in doing so replace all of the o-rings from black to green.

3) Pull vacuum after reassembling, and ensure that the system will hold a vacuum (no leaks).

4) Charge it with new refrigerant, probably R134a and PAG oil (at least that was the norm a few years ago).

You don't have an orifice tube; that type of system uses an expansion valve (it wouldn't hurt to put a new one on while you're at it). A sensing coil is clamped to the evaporator outlet tube which monitors the temperature; that opens and closes the expansion valve on the inlet line as needed. That black putty tape covers the sensing coil.

I'd use the factory spec as a rough guide for the oil charge (I think it's 7 oz.).

That's not a "factory-installed" AC system. It's dealer-installed or aftermarket. The Ford dealership kits were aftermarket.

Those type of systems were charged by monitoring a sight glass in the drier. On your drier, the sight glass is under that black round sticker on top. Properly filled, when the clutch cycles, the refrigerant could be seen to foam then quickly turn to liquid only. Undercharged would have air bubbles remaining in the liquid while the clutch is engaged.

 

[ISX_15]

Any ideas what these are for? Cant figure out whats what the engine bay is awful, ill take my thread to 2.8 section as theres other harnesses unplugged, which isnt a big deal id just like to know whats what.

 

[RobbieD]

Any ideas what these are for? Cant figure out whats what the engine bay is awful, ill take my thread to 2.8 section as theres other harnesses unplugged, which isnt a big deal id just like to know whats what.

#1 No earthly idea. Looks like speaker wire or lamp cord, and I love how it's ran into the evaporator case. Hackery at its finest.

#2 OBD1 test connector.

 

[ISX_15]

#1 No earthly idea. Looks like speaker wire or lamp cord, and I love how it's ran into the evaporator case. Hackery at its finest.

#2 OBD1 test connector.

yeah im hoping to remove all that once i change out the ignition

 

[bobbywalter]

 

[bobbywalter]

better than my AC

 

[ISX_15]

so real. im in AZ too 120F days suck. cant be riding like that though im fully restoring my ranger danger. motor, trans, AC, electrical, interior, exterior. its gonna be like a nice ass weekend truck where people are gonna break their necks cause its a classic. Not gonna bother painting it just gonna be lazy and throw a nice wrap on it.