1973 courier/ ranger build

[1991fordranger1]

Ok I got the d44 out of the wagoneer with axle over springs.. I'm having a brain fart on mounting it to set my caster and pinion angles.

Do I need to have the entire tire sitting level and just hang it under there and build mounts or am I just over thinking it and it's that simple.. i did it before but that was a few years ago. Just an opinion would be nice from some else just to give me the kick I need.. also shackle out front or cab side when doing that?

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[BlackBII]

You'll need the truck sitting level yes. I believe that is what you were asking.

The caster should be a positive 4-5 degrees and your pinion angle needs to match whatever angle is on the output of the transfercase if you are running a regular driveshaft.

 

[1991fordranger1]

You'll need the truck sitting level yes. I believe that is what you were asking.

The caster should be a positive 4-5 degrees and your pinion angle needs to match whatever angle is on the output of the transfercase if you are running a regular driveshaft.

I'm planning on using the double cardian u joint off the ranger originally.. and positive is leaned back correct?


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[alwaysFlOoReD]

I don't remember positive from negative but you want the opposite caster from a shopping cart.
Also read some where that with the shackle behind the beam it's easier to absorb bumps as the spring eye moves in the same direction as the bump pushes the beam.

 

[1991fordranger1]

Wise axle gurus my axles I bought are 87 jeep wagoneer d44s low pinion they are like 3.07 ratio I think when looking for different gears will any low pinion d44 gears work in it or do I need specific for that vehicle I know they are common and liked for a reason so I'm hoping simple and common makes them easy to find

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[mountainkowboy]

will any low pinion d44 gears work in it or do I need specific for that vehicle

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Dana 44 is dana 44, the only thing that changes is that there's 2 carriers. one for 3.73 and under and a different one for 3.90 and above.

 

[dieseldane]

Dana 44 is dana 44, the only thing that changes is that there's 2 carriers. one for 3.73 and under and a different one for 3.90 and above.

Not necessarily, there is of course high pinion and low pinion, and then new generation vs old generation.

https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/the-difference-between-new-generation-dana-44-axles-and-older-ones/

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[1991fordranger1]

Yeah they are low pinion first generation.

I think I figured it out.
Just have to get a carrier locker and gears past the wife

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[1991fordranger1]

Does that mean my carrier would work or backwards thinking... I think they have 3.07s in them now or something crazy

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[BlackBII]

That gear set should fit. Some info here:
http://www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/carrier-breaks/

3.73 and down carriers require a thick gear set when running 3.92 and up because of the shorter deck height of the carrier.

 

[1991fordranger1]

That gear set should fit. Some info here:
http://www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/carrier-breaks/

3.73 and down carriers require a thick gear set when running 3.92 and up because of the shorter deck height of the carrier.

Awesome thank you much appreciated then I don't need a carrier just gears and probably a bearing kit if I'm getting this far into it

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[1991fordranger1]

Well i haven't updated on the project in awhile and I dont feel like I got alot done but I have the motor and transmission mounted in the truck. I have the floor basically all cut out to fit it up in there but it's in there now that i have it in there i never thought two steps ahead like I should of and now I am wondering about my cross member if it's in the way of the front diff pumpkin I measured but need to actually get it dragged in to the shop and and mocked up and see if I'm doing more modifying now. Either way I guess motor is mounted where it needs to be.. the trans mount mounted even with the bottom of the frame which is awesome really will tighten it all up back there.. I will have to notch a bit of the mount for the front drive shaft bit I'm not set on my 1350 t case I want to fine a manual 1354 case but haven't had any luck.. I have a electric shift 1354 which works but don't want to be bothered with the electronics.. has anyone removed the motor off them and made up linkage? I looked at pictures of them and I think it could be done but don't know if it's worth the hassle. I also know that that slip in the t case out the front looks like trouble tho so not sure may be will just mock up the system with the 1354 that I have and keep searching I imagine it will be awhile before I get to the point of actually driving the thing.

I ended up picking up a 01 gmc 1500 last night with a 5 speed and a manual t case to use as a dd for now. It's a bare basic truck manual windows and locks so no fighting with worn out motors and electrical issues.

Suppose to finally get out of this dragged out winter to actually get to spring up here so will get to power washing off the grimmy axle and drag it in to look at fitment if I need to modify my cross member I think that's better to do then have the truck way to high in the air and looking like it's a skate board on stilts.

I dont have many pictures on my phone right now but hope to get it sorted out and work at getting the axles under it. Then it's sheet metal work

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[1991fordranger1]

How much clearance do you guys all leave for up travel on your SAS trucks I need to see how high I got to go to clear the pumpkin on up travel to my cross member is it like 4 inches or 6 or what I need rough numbers to be able to hang it right

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[BlackBII]

Advanced Adapters makes a knob that you can bolt onto the electric shift transfer case. I have never used one but have read it works fine. You can also use some vise grips to turn the shifter after removing the electric motor.

I can't help you on your clearance issue as far as giving a measurement, but I would suggest you place the axle under there and raise the diff side until it's about to hit, and then add a bumpstop that'll stop the axle at that point.

LINK

 

[1991fordranger1]

Advanced Adapters makes a knob that you can bolt onto the electric shift transfer case. I have never used one but have read it works fine. You can also use some vise grips to turn the shifter after removing the electric motor.

I can't help you on your clearance issue as far as giving a measurement, but I would suggest you place the axle under there and raise the diff side until it's about to hit, and then add a bumpstop that'll stop the axle at that point.

LINK

Thanks ok the advice I'll see if I can just machine a plate and make a floor shift from it.

I crawled under a guy from works Cummins at work and he only has 2.5 inches or so of clearance up so I should be too bad.. I'm more looking at my cross member i made. I could narrow it up a bit and save alot from slamming into each other .. I dont want a ridiculously high mini truck.

See anything wrong with making my cross member like a reciever hitch and slip up into then have 2 bolts per side.. the motor is basically solid mount with the polyurethane so it holds stiff the cross member adds more stiffness and helps sheild the pan

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