Yes... I'm asking about a Dana 30.

[c_note]

the only way to be sure is to ask someone with experience with a dana 30 in a ranger, not in a jeep. alot of the people on here speak on predictions, not actuality. i ran a dana 35 in my truck for a while with 35s and cranked t bars. never broke anything and ive gotten to where i was tacked out in 4lo 1st gear pulling a full size ram out of the mud.

 

[RacinNdrummin]

What it comes down to, if you beat the crap out of your axle, it will break. The D30 is more than sufficient for somebody that wheels conservatively, But if you beat the hell out of your rig and dont know when to stop when enough is enough, than you will break it.

Other than the Ring and Pinion, the XJ D30 with the bigger joints is just as tuff as a TTB D35, and if your to the point where your tearing up RP gears over shafts, your beating both axles to hard.

The D30 is easier to work on and less complicated than a D35 TTB.

The D35 TTB is a decent axle for what it is, but it is not gold, and there is not as huge of a difference between it and the D30 as some of you would like to think.

 

[rangertoy]

I am in the middle of putting a d30 under my 99, there are alot of different reasons we have chosen this particular axle, whether it be for availibility or cost, i know around here in the south d44s are pricey and usually worn out, now to the strength of the d30 i know a guy with 39.5" boggers, 4.88 gears, detroit locker, built 350 and a heavy ass foot in a 1990 YJ and has never broke anything in his d30, i think that is more abuse than a v6 could ever do. Just my opinion

 

[Rangeraddict]

I haven't Had any major Issues with the D30 under my 87 xcab. Its an 84 with the vacuum disco and the 260x joints. had to replace a unit bearing (original I'm sure) and that's about it. I'm running 33's and I don't do rocks but I'm not afraid of the skinny pedal. and that's with u-joints that desperately need replaced

 

[Mudhound]

I can offer some advice on improving the weak points of the D30, from actually owning, running, and (GASP) wheeling with it. If you have a pre 96 axle (the late 95 production axles allready have the big joints in them) go and find a 96 and later housing and pull the shafts. These have the 760 sized (D44) U-joints in them. If you have the Disco axle, this won't work without the seal conversion to swap to the one piece shaft. Google is your friend here. FYI: If you find a PRE 91 XJ with the NP 242 case, IT WILL HAVE THE NON DISCO AXLE, but the small u-joints. Brace the LCA mounts across the width of the control pocket AFTER you weld the brackets on FULLY. Look at them, and you will see. If you have the Non-disco, brace the passenger upper control mount, so that it doesn't flex and bend on you. (learned that the fun way) The later (post 91) axles don't have a removable caliper mount. The calipers are bolted to the bracket, like a GM. Good thing/ bad thing: good- the caliper guides are now no longer a wear item. Bad- If you have a lugnut that you CANNOT remove (stripped and in a recessed hole, no room for any tools) you cannot simply unbolt the caliper bracket, hub, and brake hose to take the wheel somewhere to have it worked on. Also, the guide pins like to sieze up, and cause funky pad wear, so be warned. I' got more, including pix of the bracing, etc...

 

[dangerranger83]

My D30 has CV joints on it. I never hear of people with CV joints on theres, probably a reason why, but what are the pros and cons? I'm not going to be wheeling with it, just going to be a DD.

And what do you mean by "If you have the Non-disco, brace the passenger upper control mount, so that it doesn't flex and bend on you. (learned that the fun way)", mines the non disco type and it came out of a cherokee what year it is i dont know.

 

[Mudhound]

The CV joint tells you that it came from a ZJ Grand Cherokee (93-98), and a most likely V8 model with the NP 247 case that is H/N/L ONLY, no part time on it. As to p&c stuff, well, look at it like this: a U-joint has great strength when it is running straight, but as the wheel turns to the side, the u-joints tolerance for strength DECREASES dramatically the farther that you turn the wheel. This why so many people blow a ujoint when climbing things. A CV has CONSTANT strength, regardless of angle because of the design. However, the CV trades durability for consitancy, that is why a CV is not quite as strong over all. Depending on how you wheel, you could be, and most likely will be fine with the CVs'. You can simply swap them out for normal axleshafts if they get to be an issue. Oh, I just happened to think about this also, if a Ujoint fails, you get to stop and R&R the thing, or chance popping the balljoints on the knuckle. If a CV blows, all it does is go crick,pop crick,pop like a FWD car when they have a bad CV. Of course, you also have to keep a decent eye on the CV boot for damage.
Here is a picture to show the brace work on the pass. bracket. I bent the sucker one time, and managed to repair it, so it got braced.

 

[Mudhound]

I might as well post the other pixtures showing how to "armour" the weak points on the D30:

Now, the way that MY D30 is "armoured", the OEM control arm bushings WILL NOT FIT, so you simply alter the design as needed. I run Terraflex bushings, as an FYI. They are smaller, but poly and have held up for over 7 years, without much complaint, other than the normal greasing every 4-5 oil changes (very thing else gets greased when I get back from the trip, esp. balljoints/steering.)

 

[dangerranger83]

Mine came with a bad CV joint but luckly now bad stuff in the joint so I'm good there, going to be putting the new boot on today along with a new lug nut stud. The person that I got the D30 from wasnt a fool for wheel and knew what parts to get. I'll get pictures of my D30 on here when I can to show what I have. I'm told the Grand Cherokees have high steering knuckles on them which is a good thing.

So basiclly they are both good joints its just up to what your going to be doing that my decide what joint you need to use. You think it I would be fine to run 31 inch tires with CV joints? I'm running a 2.8 motor so high power to the wheels isnt going to be an issue I need to worry about. I will have more questions to ask soon when I get furture along with my project. You have answered quite a few for me. Thanks

 

[Mudhound]

Yeah, I would run the CV's without a second thought for what you have for power. As for the Hi-steer thing, the ZJ DOESN"T have that. It is basically the same as a XJ. The 99 and up Grand (WJ), however, DOES have ALOT to offer. You take the both knuckles, the brakes, and the upper tie rod, and say "hello" to TRUE crossover steering, just like the over priced "kits" that you can buy. The downer is that you need the following parts to make this work, but, if you shop around, it is still cheap: JKS man. has the 1/4" thick weld on spacers that you need to be able to keep you small bolt pattern, as the WJ is a big pattern Chev. Use the rotors ( and hubs) for a 2001 and up TJ Wrangler, brake issue solved. There are also 2 different calipers for the WJ brakes "I said STOP" & "I said stop NOW!". I like the later, as they are 4 piston calipers and about $45 reman. The rotors are also ALOT bigger than the normal D30 brakes.
Your very welcome.No trouble helping someone to do something "lowbuck". I have wheeled the Bejesus out of the D30 in different forms over the years, and have learned ALOT about what works, what doesn't, and most importantly, WHY? I am actually tossing a D30 under my 87 Ranger S-cab, and it is a Disco axle, with v8 power and other goodies. Check the build thread for any tips, or questions that you have. Since I don't have the stupid cast on my left wrist anymore, I can FINALLY get back to working on it.

 

[Mudhound]

A question for you that I over looked: Does your D30 have a yoke on the pinion, or a funny looking "bowl"? The "bowl" is the mark of the WJ axle. If this is what you have, then this just got ALOT more entertaining....

 

[dangerranger83]

I'll have to get you a picture of my yoke because I have no idea what you are talking about, damn I am new at this stuff. One huge question.....What do I do woth the cross member that the D28 arms hook to, the one under my tranny has like a sway bar thing in it, the tranny isnt bloted to it? I cant find any pictures of what people have done or fabbed up. I'm not going to be using it but I feel as if it is doing more then hold the radius arms to my truck. I'm asking you because your being helpful and your doing this to a Gen 1 truck.

 

[swampbuck08]

Hello guys newbie here. Im also planing a sas swap on my 88 and I think the dana 30 is were im going. I am also going to do a 4.0 swap and put an auto trans in. From the guys i have talked to the high pinion is a fairly easy swap for al the steering componets.

 

[dangerranger83]

I dont think a high or low pinion have different steering set-ups. But a high pinion is the way to go as it is a stronger set-up then a low-pinion.

Welcome to The Ranger Station!!!!!!

 

[Mudhound]

Okay. There is actually a thread in the Tech Library that shows some decent shots of the brackets used to hold a D30 under a RBV (Ranger Based Vehicle) middle column, 14th thread down, and then most of the way down the page. I am going to be doing something very similar to that design. The actual crossmember in question that your swaybar is in gets tossed out, and a new one built. I am going to be starting the acual design/fitment part of this prolly tomorrow as I still need to finish putting the 5.0 back in my Fullsize Bronco. I had to pull it to change the freezeplugs. If you guys can holdon until then, I will have some pictures, material list, and some measurements for you, along with springs that I am going to try using.
Do keep in mind that my build is 1) allready on TRS under "The Mudhound under the knife, 2) the info that you guys are wanting will be in that thread, and 3) mine will be street friendly, but a few things will be more for the woods, but I will point out the changes, and the whys/ other things .