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Towing capacity?

RonD

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It seems like what is being said by you has a discrepancy with what was said earlier in the thread by RonD



Are you saying that WITH this particular trailer weight (being that it is accurate) i then have an ADDITIONAL 2900 Lbs left to hit maximum load OR is it that I have ~3,000 Lbs for trailer and load as stated by RonD ("to be at or under 7,000Lbs)

Just want to make sure I get this clear.

Also, for those who might not have seen the specs for a manual transmission -- the Towing capacity is less than that of an Automatic (I forget exactly by how much but that is in the Specs provided by RonD above)

Also, yes. I am in Vermont. And even if it wasn't required I have brakes... I would likely want them because that gives me another sense of security god-forbid. And weight distribution hitch is also a smart idea (considering these additionals don't tax on more weight)
GCWR(Gross combined weight rating) is the total weight of everything........... truck + trailer and everything loaded into both

If you pulled the vehicle and trailer on to a scale the weight you would see would be the Gross Combined weight, and legally it should be under the GCWR for that model vehicle

If your models curb weight is 3,600lbs and trailer(empty) weighs 1,400lbs that's 5,000lbs
If GCWR for your model is 7,000lbs
Then 7,000 - 5,000 = 2,000lbs left for driver, passengers and cargo

If trailer(empty) weighs 2,400lbs then truck and trailer weigh 6,000lbs(3,600 + 2,400)
7,000 - 6,000 = 1,000lbs left for driver, passengers and cargo

GCWR number is the total weight allowed for your model, and it mostly has to do with braking but it also assumes trailer brakes are always used on any trailer over 1,500lbs total weight


Yes, automatic transmissions are stronger than manual transmissions on the same model vehicles so will always have a higher GCWR and tow weight rating, its just Physics
And no.............it has never been related to drivers ability, ever, :)

M5OD-R1, Ranger manual trans, is rated at 330ft/lb torque
4R44E automatic is rated at 440ft/lb, thats what the 44 means, so same for 5R44E
4R55E is rated at 550ft/lb, same for 5R55E
Just Physics, nothing personal, lol
 
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sgtsandman

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So, @RavenRanger01, is your truck a manual?

I was just working off the numbers posted earlier. If your truck is a manual, go by the limitations for a manual transmission with your driverrain, and your cab configuration. A 4X4 Super Cab is going to be different than a RWD, Regular Cab and so on. The manual transmissions are more limited in towing capacity than automatics.

Look up your configuration in the owner’s manual and go by that. That will determine if you can tow the trailer and if you can have stuff in the trailer as well. Not much use having a trailer you can tow if you can’t have clothing, food, water, and propane in it.
 

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I'm curious what the towing capacity of my 2003 4.0 L XLT V6 4X4.. at some point I'd like to tow a camper trailer.

thanks!
3280 lbs. max trailer weight. That ebay trailer you listed is pushing it.
 

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M5OD-R1, Ranger manual trans, is rated at 330ft/lb torque
4R44E automatic is rated at 440ft/lb, thats what the 44 means, so same for 5R44E
4R55E is rated at 550ft/lb, same for 5R55E
Just Physics, nothing personal, lol
You're usually go darn good...

4R44E is rated for 440 N*m, Ford was metric by this time - 2.3l, 3.0l, 4.0l engines, etc.
440 N*m = 325 ft.lbs. - basically identical to the M5OD-R1. Also, note that the 330 ft.lb rating is for 3.72:1 1st transmission found in 2.3/3.0 transmissions, with 3.40:1 1st as found be behind 4.0s, it should have probably been rated 360 ft.lbs.
The 5R55E being rated at 550 N*m is stronger than M5OD-R1 (550 N*m = 405 ft.lbs.).
But starting in '01, Ford put M5OD-R1HD, behind 4.0 SOHC engines, but never bothered releasing higher values.
M5OD-R1HD is a 400 ft.lbs. transmission by the specs of the components.

For Rangers you will find that e.g. they put lower axle gears behind the automatics with higher ratings: 4.10:1 for 2.3 & 3.0 with auto, but only 3.73s behind those with manual, which masks the rating of the transmission behind the overall gear ratio.

If it was strictly strength of transmission, 3.0/manual/3.73 Rangers should have the same 7,500 lb GCWR as the 3.0/automatic/3.73 Ranger, as there are M5OD-R1 vehicles rated that high and everything else is equal.

On other other hand; Ford's rating is what the law will take as gospel, so you are stuck with lower rating for manual.
 

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Not sure where that comes from, everything I have seen has it in ft/lb

Couldn't find a N/m rating for these, found one for the new Ranger 10-speed automatic, 800 Nm · 590 ft/lb
 

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If you have e rated tires, that usually negates needing a load distribution hitch
Well that's total BS..... Load range has nothing to do with weight distribution. I take that back, it has a little to do with it but having load range E tires doesn't mean you don't need a weight distribution hitch. I'd recommend an E2 weight distribution hitch. They are easy to use, easy to install and do sway control too.
[/QUOTE]

Really. For the weight here....sub 6k


A load distribution hitch won't do shit for you. There are trailers it may...but use it first instead of wasting money on so.ething you won't need. Probably make it worse handling if the tongue weight is correct and you have too much pre load... Especially With squishy tires.

...years ago, friend of mine towed his race car every week....depending on wind it was a non issue to mild issue. This was a bone stock 4.0 truck. And way over factory rating.

He went to a slightly larger trailer with a room to keep gear in instead of loading and unloading constantly and a load distribution hitch for obvious reasons..

Then it got to where it was over the line....he was not in a position to trade up to a real truck yet so I installed an air lift and he went to e rated tires.

His biggest lesson and regret was not putting e rated tires on day one. He hated dicking with the hitch....

The tires alone made it easier to drive over fawking with the hitch all the time.

he went to a Duramax..so no issues towing again for them. But he had that ranger for 10 years



me...myself. towing a improperly...or rather less then ideally situated trailer over 12 k regularly with a 3/4 ton
....the load distribution hitch is awesome.

same trailer with the 8foot bed 3500, it don't make a difference worth dealing with it.

This coming from a guy that tows 8 k with a ranger....well.. technically it is a ranger.

And my ranger is taller then stock.

The difference between e and d is astounding towing.
 

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You're usually go darn good...

4R44E is rated for 440 N*m, Ford was metric by this time - 2.3l, 3.0l, 4.0l engines, etc.
440 N*m = 325 ft.lbs. - basically identical to the M5OD-R1. Also, note that the 330 ft.lb rating is for 3.72:1 1st transmission found in 2.3/3.0 transmissions, with 3.40:1 1st as found be behind 4.0s, it should have probably been rated 360 ft.lbs.
The 5R55E being rated at 550 N*m is stronger than M5OD-R1 (550 N*m = 405 ft.lbs.).
But starting in '01, Ford put M5OD-R1HD, behind 4.0 SOHC engines, but never bothered releasing higher values.
M5OD-R1HD is a 400 ft.lbs. transmission by the specs of the components.

For Rangers you will find that e.g. they put lower axle gears behind the automatics with higher ratings: 4.10:1 for 2.3 & 3.0 with auto, but only 3.73s behind those with manual, which masks the rating of the transmission behind the overall gear ratio.

If it was strictly strength of transmission, 3.0/manual/3.73 Rangers should have the same 7,500 lb GCWR as the 3.0/automatic/3.73 Ranger, as there are M5OD-R1 vehicles rated that high and everything else is equal.

On other other hand; Ford's rating is what the law will take as gospel, so you are stuck with lower rating for manual.
The auto rating is converter power not actual input power.
 

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The auto rating is converter power not actual input power.
But assuming OEM torque converter, it is locked up way before the engine hits torque peak, so converter output basically equals input.
 

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Yeah...couple hundred pounds.

Dont put 350 on it locked up.
 

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Yeah but when you put E rated tires on your truck then you are stuck with those tires and the ride quality goes down for all the times you are driving without a trailer which is probably a lot more than driving with a trailer. E2 hitches (not the chain style) take 2 minutes to hook up so if someone can't do that then they shouldn't be towing a trailer in the first place. Yes the initial set up will take about an hour but once it is set up it takes a couple minutes to hook up...


 

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Ok.


A properly loaded trailer does not need sway control. period. The load is properly distributed.

If you need a load distributing hitch...you better understand it's a band aid. Because sometimes you can't load the trailer properly. First figure that out...if it's the case...for sure invest in it.

otherwise you should not be towing a trailer.

If your towing a trailer and have the truck loaded down. E rated tires are Golden.

But as mentioned... suck for a daily. Well a stock ranger..bit if your towing a trailer that needs a load distribution hitch and the high end or more of the scale....you better have e rated tires.
 

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Some trailers simply cannot be loaded optimally. Boats with large fuel tanks for example or car haulers where the vehicle you put on it could be front or rear heavy. Its a big help to be able to make adjustments with a load distributing hitch for these things.

I disagree with the sway control too, again some things even properly loaded and balanced are basically giant sails. A sway brake helps on very windy days.

BUT... we are talking about a ranger, you shouldn't be towing boats with huge fuel tanks, car haulers, or big objects with a ranger. I have a load distributing hitch and a sway brake on the shop truck/trailer because I tow at the upper ends of what you can do with a ball
 

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A camper that size would be fine behind a ranger. Hell a 3.0 would even pull that with no problems. One thing no one (other than me) points out is its not about how much you can tow its about how safely can you tow it... No one mentions weight distribution or stopping distances..... Weight distribution hitches make a world of difference and good ones can be had for $500 and you could watch a youtube video on how to set it up. If you have a camper that is tongue heavy (tongue weight is ABOUT 10% of the total weight) and you DONT have a weight distribution hitch then you will lose steering and braking capabilities....

A camper like the one you posted would be fine without a weight distribution hitch as long as it doesn't have a homemade concrete counter top in the front lol.

When factoring weight for GCVW you need to remember that camper manufactures DONT include the weight of the battery, propane, fresh water or waste water so add that in when doing the math.... Also check your state laws as some require trailer brakes.
I believe to tow max weight with many vehicles it has to be with a weight distribution hitch. Maybe I'm mistaken, I know it said right on the Class 2 receiver hitch on my Ranger "3500lbs max with weight distribution"....so I'd guess without it probably 1/2 that.

Agree with the stopping capability....who cares if you can get a trailer moving, its the how the hell am I going to stop this when some jackass pulls out in front of me and proceeds to lollygag around then turn into the next shopping center LOL. Happens a lot especially where I live.
 

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