That axel seal blew a gasket

[MojoWorkin]

The saga continues. Driving down from Seattle still, and mostly pecking at a CEL issue due to a vacuum leak and maybe a redneck EGR bypass. Running MUCH better. Anyway....

I'd also had a weary eye on a failing axel seal on the passenger rear. It was leaking, but seemed to be holding. After two days of caution, I got cocky and went full-out for a few hours non stop. When I pulled off the freeway into surface streets, I noticed a shudder - not a noise - when the wheels are under power at low speeds.

So, what's it take to rehabilitate an 8.8 inch rear axel?

 

[RonD]

Have a look at the AXLE code number on drivers door label

Seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

replacing the rear axle might be more cost effective, no need to special tools needed to set up Ring and pinion
1993 to 2009 Ranger or B-series axles are plug and play
If you don't have a Locking(L/S) rear axle now it would be a good upgrade
It will of course have to match current ratio, i.e. 3.73 or 4.10, because that's whats in the front differential

You can check cost of used axles/parts here, car-part.com

 

[MojoWorkin]

So, I got it open and peeked inside. Pics here and an account of what has been going on lately.

I am now pretty sure the noise and trouble is the bearing and I'm working on it. I do t have a slide hammer to pull the seal, so this is what I came up with. It's probably an old trick.

 

[pjtoledo]

hold my beer for a minute, this won't hurt a bit



Damn you, 'ya spilled my beer!!!!!

 

[adsm08]

Gently tap a flat screw driver around the outside of the axle seal until the whole lip is sticking out from the housing. Then the seal should be able to be pulled away easily.

 

[MojoWorkin]

I am suffering from the dreaded stuck differential pin. Broken locking bolt about half way in. I read about this scourge and soaked it with PB for a few days. I think that may be the cause- PB only gets so deep, so the top end of the shaft twists while the bottom half doesn't maybe? Don't know, bit it's a day ruiner for sure.

RG

 

[MojoWorkin]

I am suffering from the dreaded stuck differential pin. Broken locking bolt about half way in. I read about this scourge and soaked it with PB for a few days. I think that may be the cause- PB only gets so deep, so the top end of the shaft twists while the bottom half doesn't maybe? Don't know, bit it's a day ruiner for sure.

Haven't even gotten to take the wife out in the new ride!

RG

 

[ericbphoto]

I am suffering from the dreaded stuck differential pin. Broken locking bolt about half way in. I read about this scourge and soaked it with PB for a few days. I think that may be the cause- PB only gets so deep, so the top end of the shaft twists while the bottom half doesn't maybe? Don't know, bit it's a day ruiner for sure.

RG

That hole isn’t drilled all the way through. Is it?
Thats a rough problem

 

[MojoWorkin]

I don't understand the question, but that's par for the course with me.

The cross pin is stuck becase the binding bolt is broken. I've read threads about ways of getting the pin out, but I'm having trouble visualizing. I don't see how to drill/easy out the rest of the bolt without boogering up the outer threads. Obviously there are, because fioks have done it and that has been well covered elsewhere. Either way, I don't think I'm not going down that road, so I'll just leave that there unless the fix is stupid simple compared to the other options listed below.

Based on my current goals, skills, budget, parts availability, and lack of a place to have a truck laid up for more than 3 days, I'm probably swapping. Short of finding a Ranger rear end in good nick, I'm probably going to end with a 31 spline and disc brakes, so I have some immediate questions that I'd like to understand better, so I can get on with it.

Is there a guide somewhere about how to assess a differential in less than ideal conditions, like a junkyard or Craigslist seller's living room?

I'm confused about flip kits. Are axel kits like the one from rough stuff 100% bolt on, or am I dreaming? I was told they all need welding, but I have reason to believe otherwise. Can someone set me straight on this? Any favorite options or more info here would help me clear the fog. I know a bolt in is less strong, but it would simplify my problems in the short term. Any off-roading with be light for now, and this would be a temporary fix.

As I understand it, If I ran the Expo rear end as-is, it would drop the rear a bit. How far would it drop? It's got a 6" lift, and I could change the fron spacer in front to level it. That might not be a bad way to go. I can always restore the lift later. I think I just talked myself into that. Anybody care to make an educated guess as to the largest tire I should consider in this configuration? (six inch lift minus axle drop)

I need to get this truck on the road, stat AND I want to play a little while I have some time. That's the short term goal. I can alays go back and address later when I have time to organze my resources. Medium term, adding some all-terrain tires and a more permantent axle setup. Long term, a higher gear ratio, unless I find that 31's and a 3.83 is working for me.

Am I on the right track? Asking the right questions?


Thank you all again! I'm learning loads!

 

[ericbphoto]

The only way I can think to remove the broken locking pin would be to drill it out. That, in itself will not be easy. Best way is to rotate the carrier so that the locking pin hole is exposed outside the axle housing. That will give the best access. Then a small right angle drill and a long drill bit are your best bet.
I have never heard of the locking pin breaking like that. That is a real bummer of a problem. If the broken piece was loose, you could pull it with a magnet. But, of course, if it was that loose, it never would have broken.

 

[racsan]

they make reverse-rotation drill bits, that might just work and cause the pin to back itself out as the drill bit bites in.

Years ago I saw a transmission (97 chrysler minivan) that had the locking pin for the cross pin break, most likely from friction welding to one of the spider gears when only one wheel was spinning (like being stuck in snow) the friction weld broke lose causing the cross pin to float loosly in the carrier. It gradually milled a hole through the side of the case, eventually causing a massive loss of transmission fluid. Initially it was thought seal failure at the tourque converter, but when the trans was pulled and the t.c. slid off, there was this huge milled slot in the case. Pulled off a cover plate and found the free-floating cross pin and that its rotational path lined up with the hole in the case.

 

[Roert42]

they make reverse-rotation drill bits, that might just work and cause the pin to back itself out as the drill bit bites in.

I’ve found it’s always a good idea to use reverse drill bits when drilling out broken bolts.
They don’t always break loose and spin free, but if they do, and you are using a regular drill bit, it just make your problem a bigger pain.

 

[MojoWorkin]

Thanks for all that. I'm not going to deal with that stuck pin, though.

That rear-end is in pretty rough condition. If it was just an exle seal job, I'd have done it to get me on the road for a couple of weeks, but that busted bolt took all the wind out of that sail for me. Moving on.

Unless I find a Ranger rear, I'm looking at an Explorer swap, so I'm trying to figure out if I need a swap kit or what. I think the questions I asked in my last post will help me know for sure.