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taking apart resi shock.


canyoncritter

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first pull the shock off the truck, duh...


make sure the rod is pulled up as far it is will go(extended), this will make you're life easier

king or the knock off kings,
You will need to leave the charge, or hit them with a few pounds (30 psi or so)of shop air to pull the dust cap.if you don't, the seal head will just spin when you try to unscrew the dust cap .

saws,and some of the others you wont need to do this as the dust cap is held on by bolts/screws.and dose not screw in to the body or on to the seal head like kings.
so you can release the charge now, and take out the allen head screws.






ok, now we have the dust cap undone from the seal head.slide the dust cap up to the end of the rod.to get it out of your way.





RELEASE ANY "CHARGE" in the shock.I pull the shrader vavle out myself.



now you can see the seal head and the shaft seal










tie a rag around the shock body.this will help keep the mess down.

Now push the seal head down in to the shock body aprx one inch or so.To pull the snap ring/cir clip out.you can use a pair of small flat blade screw drivers or picks




now lay out a clean rag.on your table. to set the guts on the shock on after the next few steps.



snap ring out, now pull up on the rod/shaft, becarefull!, or you will end up with oil all over you're shoes,and a nice mess.
pull slow and steady.You may need to rock the shaft back and forth a bit to get the seal to break....slow and steady to avoid a mess.

right as the seal head comes out the piston will follow,and you're wear band,the wear band will fall off, so be ready to grab it.expcet for saws.Saws wear band will stay on the piston.how they are made.

wear band



seal head and outter seal. pistion spacer





working pistion and valve shims and wear band



Now we have the rod/shaft and seal head out of the shock body.And you wear band probably just fell on the floor if this is your first time around. No big deal.

Set the shaft, seal head and piston on to your clean rag. And pick up you're wear band and clean it off.






Now we get to work on the reservoir.

so dump the oil out of the shock in to a container.

Mark the ends on you're res. at to what end the "hose" end is in...this will help when it comes time to assemble the shocks......

push the end cap with the schrder valve in,about a inch to pull the cir clip/snap ring just like we did on the shock body.



On some shock you can use a pair of pliers to pull on the sharder(use the wrench flats to grab on to) valve,and the end cap will pop off.BECAREFULL you don't want to ruin your shrader valve.Or maybe even pull the threads out of the end cap!



IF the cap won't come out, you can use a blow gun and shop air to get the cap to "POP" off. BECAREFULL doing this.
Notice my blow gun has a rubber tip on it that makes a half ass seal.





I would not use a tire air chuck to do this.As you could end up with a nice "Shock end cap, cannon ball" Yall watch this here!!!.......

one other trick is to slide the end cap in 3-4 inches, and put a little oil to slick things up. and hit it with a few psi of air.

IF I have a stubborn cap,that wont pop with 20-30psi I will use a burlap sand bag(just something I happen to have around) as a "safety cage". leave a couple inches of slack between the bag and the reservoir body end,And have someone hold the bag,and hit it will air till it pops.
Also I will push the cap in a few inches like before to give the cap and running start if its really stubborn.

So the gas side of the end cap on the resvior is off,









now to work on the oil side.
IF you look in the res you will see a piston. That is the IFP piston that separates the oil and gas.

(here is what the IFP and wear band looks like,after it allready has been taken out.






now push the end cap,the hose end, cap down a inch, and pop the snap ring/cir clip.

I have a 1.5x3ft wooden dowel I use to tap the IFP up to push the end cap out of the resivor.and push the IFP on up and out.IF you don't have something like the dowel, you can push the end cap in a couple of inches and pull it out fast,to get the cap to come out.

When the IFP comes out the wear band will fall off,pick it up, and clean it off.

wear band end of the piston, go's on the gas side, and the oring gos toward the oil side.

What you should have when all apart,waiting to be scrubbed clean



More to come in the next day or so,after I chase down some parts.On this shock the IFP oil seal took a dump, and one of the 90o swivel fitting's was leaking and sucking in air.

In the next few days Ill put them back together and take some more pics of how to assemble them.


any questions, comments, words of advice, or what not feel free to ask. I'll try and get some better over all pics tomorrow too.
 
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Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 7FA902352B4C01: April 5th, 2021

RangerRocker

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Good write up! Well detailed. You could probably throw in how to revalve them to. Just my $.02
 

RaceRanger97

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canyoncritter

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Well look's like it won't be till Tuesday that I get the part's I need.(90o swivel fitting)So I won't be putting them back together for a few day's.

Anyone looking for the 90o swivel fittings, don't buy them from www.DiscountHydraulicHose.com Both of mine are leaking.And have very little use on them.

So if there is any pics any one wants feel free to ask.


To re-valve the shock's you just need to pull the nut off the working piston.

(after dinner I'l post up some pics of pulling the nut etc)

I'm still pretty new to selecting shims to valve the shocks.Dont have a degree in fluid dynamics or enuff time with trial and error.

Right now my shocks have FOA's suppose valving for a full size IFS chevy, .08 stacks both comp and rebound.

I will say its ok on the street as every thing is smooth, but in the dirt it's very soft on comp at the time.
Not a big deal right now to me,till I get off my ass and start working on the rest of the truck.IE shocks for the rear and a cage.

Then I'll start with the trial and error on the valving......
 

Quasi242

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.Right now my shocks have FOA's suppose valving for a full size IFS chevy, .08 stacks both comp and rebound.

I will say its ok on the street as every thing is smooth, but in the dirt it's very soft on comp at the time.
Not a big deal right now to me,till I get off my ass and start working on the rest of the truck.IE shocks for the rear and a cage.

Then I'll start with the trial and error on the valving......
Do you mean 0.008? If that is so, that seems way too soft. My Kings on a Ranger are valved 0.012 rebound and 0.015 compression. I know that Kings and FOA's are not valved identical but I find that my setup is a bit too soft on a lighter vehicle. If you do mean 0.08 those would be some thick shims and should be super stiff. Good luck on fine tuning your valving I am in the middle of this process and it is a pain!
 

canyoncritter

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Do you mean 0.008? If that is so, that seems way too soft. My Kings on a Ranger are valved 0.012 rebound and 0.015 compression. I know that Kings and FOA's are not valved identical but I find that my setup is a bit too soft on a lighter vehicle. If you do mean 0.08 those would be some thick shims and should be super stiff. Good luck on fine tuning your valving I am in the middle of this process and it is a pain!
Good catch, yes .0008




and yes it's soft. According to Chris from FOA, they were sent back for service and a stiffer re-valve.From the previous owner for the fullsize chevy.......To be honest I think they were just thrown back in the box and sent out the door.



Would not mind picking up a set of .0010 or .0012 shim packs to play with starting on the comp.Just need to find someone that runs king and has some used shims for a discount price......I'm kinda cheap lol
 

84projectFORD

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to bad you aint in phoenix, i could hook you up with my buddy for shims
 

canyoncritter

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to bad you aint in phoenix, i could hook you up with my buddy for shims
There is always shipping:D


So you are like me and you want to see what you valving is in case you bought used or.....just for the hell of it......

put the shaft in a vise, becarefull, you don't want to scar up the shaft, scar up the shaft your going to have leaks.

I will put the shaft end(with the uniball) in to the vise, with a rag around it. so the end piston end is standing up.

Now take off the nut, that holds the piston and shim packs on to the shaft,on these shocks it happens to be 15/16




ok, now we have the nut off...



this side is your rebound......

pull your shim pack off, becarefull, they can cut the shit out of you,since your hands are going to have oil on them...And keep them in the order they came off.one trick is to use the piston and pull on up it easy to lift the shims.


On mine, the small shims were on the top,closet to the nut, and went to the biggest, down to the piston......

now we can look at the rebound side of the piston


fist time around, ethier take a pic, or put a pice of tape or something on so yo know what side is what. Dont want to mix this up.

rebound side


now pull the piston up off the shaft.



comp side of pistion.



Now we can pull the comp shims off, once again becarefull, as they can slice you up.
No need of going to the hospital now, since we did not blow our heads off, getting the end caps off the resi's right?........

once again,you can use the seal head and slide it up the rod to bump the shims a bit to get them to start moving if they are a pain.Just becarefull, with the seal head, as you have seals in there, that could get messed up if tthey rub the wrong way on the rod threads......


once again, lay out your shims, keeping track how they came off the came out/off




I could not find my mic's in my clutter pile of a garage tonight, so I used my harbor fart cal's.
and here is what I have in my shocks shim wise......

my cal's are saying I have some .0009's and .0010 in my comp stack. But my mic said 0008 all the way threw.


I've had these shocks apart I dont know how many times, working bugs out of them.

Working piston on the shock is 2.27

id of the shock can is aprx 2.32

od of the shock can is 2.5

wall thickness .087-.090

resi ID is 2.25
od 2.50

wall .120

the od of the shock rod, where the shims slide over is .6200 and the id of the shock shims is .6250=5/8
 
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odie1969

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sweet thank you so much for this. Can you summmit it to the tech area.
 

canyoncritter

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sweet thank you so much for this. Can you summmit it to the tech area.
No problem, only took me what about a year?:D

I'll submit it once I get all the way done, and assemble the shocks, and clean up my spelling:D
 

odie1969

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Hey just wondering if you ever finished the shock and if you summinted the right up. thanks agian for the info.
 

canyoncritter

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Yes, I finished off the shock, sadly I did not take any pics. My Dad passed away,aug.6th and the very next night my mom had a stroke and spent a week in ICU. And I put the shock back toghter during that week. Trying to keep my sanity and did not think to take pics.

I think I can make a wright up with pics I have on how to put back toghter. Things are still up in the air right now, family wise, So give me time and I'll finish this up.
 

reagd

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first pull the shock off the truck, duh...


make sure the rod is pulled up as far it is will go(extended), this will make you're life easier

king or the knock off kings,
You will need to leave the charge, or hit them with a few pounds (30 psi or so)of shop air to pull the dust cap.if you don't, the seal head will just spin when you try to unscrew the dust cap .

saws,and some of the others you wont need to do this as the dust cap is held on by bolts/screws.and dose not screw in to the body or on to the seal head like kings.
so you can release the charge now, and take out the allen head screws.



ok, now we have the dust cap undone from the seal head.slide the dust cap up to the end of the rod.to get it out of your way.



RELEASE ANY "CHARGE" in the shock.I pull the shrader vavle out myself.

now you can see the seal head and the shaft seal







tie a rag around the shock body.this will help keep the mess down.

Now push the seal head down in to the shock body aprx one inch or so.To pull the snap ring/cir clip out.you can use a pair of small flat blade screw drivers or picks

now lay out a clean rag.on your table. to set the guts on the shock on after the next few steps.



snap ring out, now pull up on the rod/shaft, becarefull!, or you will end up with oil all over you're shoes,and a nice mess.
pull slow and steady.You may need to rock the shaft back and forth a bit to get the seal to break....slow and steady to avoid a mess.

right as the seal head comes out the piston will follow,and you're wear band,the wear band will fall off, so be ready to grab it.expcet for saws.Saws wear band will stay on the piston.how they are made.

wear band

seal head and outter seal. pistion spacer

working pistion and valve shims and wear band

Now we have the rod/shaft and seal head out of the shock body.And you wear band probably just fell on the floor if this is your first time around. No big deal.

Set the shaft, seal head and piston on to your clean rag. And pick up you're wear band and clean it off.

Now we get to work on the reservoir.

so dump the oil out of the shock in to a container.

Mark the ends on you're res. at to what end the "hose" end is in...this will help when it comes time to assemble the shocks......

push the end cap with the schrder valve in,about a inch to pull the cir clip/snap ring just like we did on the shock body.


On some shock you can use a pair of pliers to pull on the sharder(use the wrench flats to grab on to) valve,and the end cap will pop off.BECAREFULL you don't want to ruin your shrader valve.Or maybe even pull the threads out of the end cap!


IF the cap won't come out, you can use a blow gun and shop air to get the cap to "POP" off. BECAREFULL doing this.
Notice my blow gun has a rubber tip on it that makes a half ass seal.


I would not use a tire air chuck to do this.As you could end up with a nice "Shock end cap, cannon ball" Yall watch this here!!!.......

one other trick is to slide the end cap in 3-4 inches, and put a little oil to slick things up. and hit it with a few psi of air.

IF I have a stubborn cap,that wont pop with 20-30psi I will use a burlap sand bag(just something I happen to have around) as a "safety cage". leave a couple inches of slack between the bag and the reservoir body end,And have someone hold the bag,and hit it will air till it pops.
Also I will push the cap in a few inches like before to give the cap and running start if its really stubborn.

So the gas side of the end cap on the resvior is off,

now to work on the oil side.
IF you look in the res you will see a piston. That is the IFP piston that separates the oil and gas.

(here is what the IFP and wear band looks like,after it allready has been taken out.



now push the end cap,the hose end, cap down a inch, and pop the snap ring/cir clip.

I have a 1.5x3ft wooden dowel I use to tap the IFP up to push the end cap out of the resivor.and push the IFP on up and out.IF you don't have something like the dowel, you can push the end cap in a couple of inches and pull it out fast,to get the cap to come out.

When the IFP comes out the wear band will fall off,pick it up, and clean it off.

wear band end of the piston, go's on the gas side, and the oring gos toward the oil side.

What you should have when all apart,waiting to be scrubbed clean

More to come in the next day or so,after I chase down some parts.On this shock the IFP oil seal took a dump, and one of the 90o swivel fitting's was leaking and sucking in air.

In the next few days Ill put them back together and take some more pics of how to assemble them.


any questions, comments, words of advice, or what not feel free to ask. I'll try and get some better over all pics tomorrow too.
I also want to see the latest thing about the shock. I just can't seem to pull my dust cap off. I just felt sorry for what happened. Just take your time.
 
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odie1969

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Yes, I finished off the shock, sadly I did not take any pics. My Dad passed away,aug.6th and the very next night my mom had a stroke and spent a week in ICU. And I put the shock back toghter during that week. Trying to keep my sanity and did not think to take pics.

I think I can make a wright up with pics I have on how to put back toghter. Things are still up in the air right now, family wise, So give me time and I'll finish this up.
Hey no worries Im sorry to hear about the family.
 

canyoncritter

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OK guys, I'm gonna do my best here. My mind is still a little frizzled.
I lost my mom as well on the 8th of nov. And I have alot on my plate. So if someone see's somethign wrong, please pipe up.

Ok so, you got all your pices, all nice and clean.....

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/canyoncritter/willys/shock teat down/07-29-09_1936.jpg

Your going to need a thread sealent. for the hose ends.Myself I use a permatex brand, part number PX#54550. As it wont put a ton a crap in the oil like just gooing on a ton of liquid teflon. but it dose cost a bit if you have to buy it.

Now I didnt need to pull off the Top cap off the shock body,this time around. But if you do to seal up a leak,grab the shock body. and the top cap.This sealent I use dosent take put a few drops, so put a few drops on the thread of the top cap, and screw the top cap on to the shock body.And tighten it down.Now set the "shock body and top cap" to the side.


Now get the resi body, and the "oil" side cap.(sorry dont have a pic)The one with the hose screws in to, IE the one with the hole and threads on it. And the hose.

take your resi, cap and put it in a vise.CAREFULL you dont want to mar it up or smoosh it.Soft jaws on the vise are best, but if you dont have them, put a towel/rag inbetween. and just tighen the vise snug.

put a few drops of sealent on one side of the hose (on the threads) Now FOA uses a pipe thread,king preruuner's and saws do to.So you DON'T need to go gorrlia on tighting.Just good and snug.

Ok now pick back up your shock body, and put it in the vise. top cap down in the jaws. rember becarefull, dont want to mar things up etc. so just snug on the wise, use the towel/rag again if need be.

Few more drops of sealant, on the hose end again on the threads. And screw it in to the top cap. Once again, dont go gorrlia.Just snug tight. rember the pipe thread thing.....

Since we are not in production, or doing a quick field fix and have some time, I like to give the sealant 10-20 min.to set up a bit.Drink a beer, grab a quick nooner,etc.

Now, grab the resi body.Dip your finger in the shock oil your going to use. wipe the inside of the resi to give a film, and the oring on the resi top cap. the one we just screwd the hose in to.

Now push the resi top cap in to the resi body.(myself I leave the shock body in the vise and hold the resi body on my stomach while I push the cap in.) push it down far enuff so you can see the snap ring grove.

put your snap ring in, and pull up the cap till it seat, Somtimes you can just pull on the hose,Sometimes a wooden dowel, or hammer handle to tap it up from the back side works.You want something "Soft" so dont use a chunk of rebar.

ok, now, dip your finger, or pour cap full of your in to the resi body,from the back side to get a film.So the IFP will slide in.

Now grab your IFP, and the IFP wear band.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/canyoncritter/willys/shock teat down/07-29-09_1934.jpg

And wipe down the wear band the o-ring of the IFP down with the oil too.to create a film.

Now grab your resi, and insert the IFP,O-ring side first.Now here is where the hammer handle,or dowel really comes in handy.Depending on how tight the toloerances are in the resi.
On My FOA's one will slide in like its the octa-mom's.....and the other is like 15year virgin.Well you get the ideal.
Now tap down the IFP,this can be tricky the first few times, as you have to get the wear band in also. Now if you notice on the back side of the IFP that your tapping on, will have a hole in the center with threads in it. Find what size it is, and get a bolt in to it.The longer the better. IF you happen to go to far,to get the wear band in, or it get's crooked, etc. you can wiggle the IFP out of the resi body that way.And try again.

Ok now that you got the IFP in, just far enuff to get the wear band in, we need to know how far to set the IFP in th resi body.
Ive talked to a few diffrent people and have gotten diffrent anwsers. So the way I do it takes a little math. OR you can set it all the way up, wiht shop air.And let the oil set it.

The way I do it is calc. how much volume the shaft is going to take up x 2 for a fudge factor if the resi has enuff space. one tip here you will need to know how thick your resi caps are to and factor that in as well. Big resi's and short shafts like my shocks, you can get a little extra oil this way as a perk.
Or you can, get the IFP in far enuff to put the bottom cap of the resi(the one with the shrader)The gas side, with the shrader valve out, and hit it with shop air till you hear the IFP click/bottom out.

So depending on your going to do it, follow these steps.

if your going to do the math. set the IFP to the depth.Mine was 6 inches if I rember right.With my dowel, I made a mark on the dowel to the depth. and tapped the IFP in to that mark.

*******IF your going to click it to set it,get the IFP in far enuff 4 inches or so,to put the gas side of the resi cap in, rember to put a oil film in the resi body, and the cap o-ring. and push the gas side cap in, far enuff to get the snap ring in the grove.Make sure the sharder valve is out.And give it a small shot of low psi(30lbs or so) air to seat the cap against the snap ring.once the snap ring is set, hit it again, with 70psi or so to seat the IFP you should hear it click.*******************

IF you have time to let the sealent set up, do it. I like to give it 12 hours with what I use.But this last shock I just went on, and no problems with leaks from the sealent.

ok back to the calc. way of setting up the IFP


now let the resi hang down, (still have the shock body in the vise upside down, by the top cap right?)
Start pouring in your oil, go slow.You dont want air on the oil.as this takes times to let the bubbles get out.
ok so pour in enuff oill to come about a inch from the seal head snap ring grove in the shock body. Check the depth of your ifp again, that it hasnt moved. if it has reset it.tap as easy as you can if it has.(You may even want to pour about half the oil in and check it as well.) so you dont end up with a oil bath.

tie a rag around the shock body.first few times your going to have some spill over.TRUST ME!!
OK now tap lightly on the resi, shock body etc to try and purge any air that may be trapped....go have anouther beer,send the g/f a few dirty text,hell maybe even try for 1:45er

Check your IFP level again.Check the oil level in the shock about a inch from the snap ring grove.....

got that rag tied around the shock body right?

now grab the shock shaft,assembly.

put the piston in the SLOOOWWWWWW, let the oil come up and over the pistion.till you have the seal head resting on the shock body (best way I can explain it)
Now push the seal head down.

*********Now if your doing it the click it to set the IFP way, push down quick and fast.As this will set the IFP depth.try not getting the seal head past a 1/4 below the spap ring grove.*********

IF your doing it the "calc the IFP depth way", push it down slow and easy."just far enuff" to get the snap ring in the grove.

got the span ring in, pull up on the shaft to set of the seal head on the spap ring.

tighten down your dust cover.

Once again check your IFP depth.IF its slighty off, like a 1/4 inch. dont worry to much, more than that.......pull the shock shaft assembly back out...reset etc.

one way you can double check your IFP depth, if you did it the caluc way, is now push the shack shaft down ,all the way down, SLOWWWW and EASSSSSYYYY. and meassure the depth, to doulbe check your clearnce of the IFP and gas side cap of the resi.

all check out good?...slowy pull back up the shaft to top it out.

dip your finger in the oil, light film in the inside of the resi body, and the bottom caps oring.
insert and push in the bottom cap in to the resi.

put your shrader valve back in.

Now lets face it, well all dont have a N20 tank etc. and we want to make sure we dont have leaks right?.....
drain your air compressor, get all the water out of the tank, blast out the line, blow some dirt around the shop etc. get the air as dry as you can, is what Im getting at.

crank on the PSI as high as your can. just dont go past 200psi.but we want atleast 100psi.

Fill the resi with shop air.

So now your ethier pissed off cause you made a oil geiser, blew the cap off in your face. or you have a grin on your face.cause all seems good......


now push the shock shaft all the way down bottom out the shaft. Most shocks have about a 1.4 inch of the shaft still showing when bottomed out....IE my shocks are "8 inch" shocks, but the shaft are 8-1/4 long...so they leave a 1/4 inch..get what Im saying?

Now if your a little guy like me 160lbs, it may take alittle fighting to get them to compress all the way.as we are dealing with a gas charge and "large" oil volume compared to a ran-chesse-e.

ok, so we got them compressed, nothign seem to be bound/seized up, now let the shock extened its self. the shaft should shoot back up and out. now take your tape, and meassure your shaft....
if you got a 8 inch shock, you should have 8inches of shock shaft, 10 inch shock...etc etc..

Now if you come up short, your IFP is bottoming out in the top the the resi can, your going to have to take it all back apart and reset it.

and if your cant compress the shock all the way the IFP wa set to shallow....once again your going to have to take it all apart.


now pull your dust cover off, and look for any leaks of oil. Im anal, and take a q-tip and soak up any oil from assemblyaround the seal head. go drink a beer. send more dirty text, or if your got a nooner and a 1:45er, go get a sandwich. Or if your 17 hit it again. lol

check for leaks , I like to let my shocks sit for a day if I can, sitting upright like they would be on the truck, and check for leaks all around.

no leaks? great!, now put your dust caps back on, cycle the shocks a few times...still good? great....if the shafts wont compress all the way,90% chance you got a leak in the IFP seal and they are hydro locking.

Now find some place your can get the shocks charged with N20 if you dont have a tank, take th shocks over there. and have them replace the shop air with N20.

bring them home bolt them on to your truck.....and have fun...



excuse my spelling, it sucks to start with, an my brain is still warped right now. I'll clean this up at a later time. to submit, or if someone else likes, they may clean it up as well. As I dont know when I will get around to it.
 


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