canyoncritter
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2007
- Messages
- 1,274
- Reaction score
- 6
- Points
- 0
- Location
- San Diego
- Vehicle Year
- 1952,1991,1992
- Make / Model
- Willys,Ford,Jee
- Transmission
- Manual
first pull the shock off the truck, duh...
make sure the rod is pulled up as far it is will go(extended), this will make you're life easier
king or the knock off kings,
You will need to leave the charge, or hit them with a few pounds (30 psi or so)of shop air to pull the dust cap.if you don't, the seal head will just spin when you try to unscrew the dust cap .
saws,and some of the others you wont need to do this as the dust cap is held on by bolts/screws.and dose not screw in to the body or on to the seal head like kings.
so you can release the charge now, and take out the allen head screws.
ok, now we have the dust cap undone from the seal head.slide the dust cap up to the end of the rod.to get it out of your way.
RELEASE ANY "CHARGE" in the shock.I pull the shrader vavle out myself.
now you can see the seal head and the shaft seal
tie a rag around the shock body.this will help keep the mess down.
Now push the seal head down in to the shock body aprx one inch or so.To pull the snap ring/cir clip out.you can use a pair of small flat blade screw drivers or picks
now lay out a clean rag.on your table. to set the guts on the shock on after the next few steps.
snap ring out, now pull up on the rod/shaft, becarefull!, or you will end up with oil all over you're shoes,and a nice mess.
pull slow and steady.You may need to rock the shaft back and forth a bit to get the seal to break....slow and steady to avoid a mess.
right as the seal head comes out the piston will follow,and you're wear band,the wear band will fall off, so be ready to grab it.expcet for saws.Saws wear band will stay on the piston.how they are made.
wear band
seal head and outter seal. pistion spacer
working pistion and valve shims and wear band
Now we have the rod/shaft and seal head out of the shock body.And you wear band probably just fell on the floor if this is your first time around. No big deal.
Set the shaft, seal head and piston on to your clean rag. And pick up you're wear band and clean it off.
Now we get to work on the reservoir.
so dump the oil out of the shock in to a container.
Mark the ends on you're res. at to what end the "hose" end is in...this will help when it comes time to assemble the shocks......
push the end cap with the schrder valve in,about a inch to pull the cir clip/snap ring just like we did on the shock body.
On some shock you can use a pair of pliers to pull on the sharder(use the wrench flats to grab on to) valve,and the end cap will pop off.BECAREFULL you don't want to ruin your shrader valve.Or maybe even pull the threads out of the end cap!
IF the cap won't come out, you can use a blow gun and shop air to get the cap to "POP" off. BECAREFULL doing this.
Notice my blow gun has a rubber tip on it that makes a half ass seal.
I would not use a tire air chuck to do this.As you could end up with a nice "Shock end cap, cannon ball" Yall watch this here!!!.......
one other trick is to slide the end cap in 3-4 inches, and put a little oil to slick things up. and hit it with a few psi of air.
IF I have a stubborn cap,that wont pop with 20-30psi I will use a burlap sand bag(just something I happen to have around) as a "safety cage". leave a couple inches of slack between the bag and the reservoir body end,And have someone hold the bag,and hit it will air till it pops.
Also I will push the cap in a few inches like before to give the cap and running start if its really stubborn.
So the gas side of the end cap on the resvior is off,
now to work on the oil side.
IF you look in the res you will see a piston. That is the IFP piston that separates the oil and gas.
(here is what the IFP and wear band looks like,after it allready has been taken out.
now push the end cap,the hose end, cap down a inch, and pop the snap ring/cir clip.
I have a 1.5x3ft wooden dowel I use to tap the IFP up to push the end cap out of the resivor.and push the IFP on up and out.IF you don't have something like the dowel, you can push the end cap in a couple of inches and pull it out fast,to get the cap to come out.
When the IFP comes out the wear band will fall off,pick it up, and clean it off.
wear band end of the piston, go's on the gas side, and the oring gos toward the oil side.
What you should have when all apart,waiting to be scrubbed clean
More to come in the next day or so,after I chase down some parts.On this shock the IFP oil seal took a dump, and one of the 90o swivel fitting's was leaking and sucking in air.
In the next few days Ill put them back together and take some more pics of how to assemble them.
any questions, comments, words of advice, or what not feel free to ask. I'll try and get some better over all pics tomorrow too.
make sure the rod is pulled up as far it is will go(extended), this will make you're life easier
king or the knock off kings,
You will need to leave the charge, or hit them with a few pounds (30 psi or so)of shop air to pull the dust cap.if you don't, the seal head will just spin when you try to unscrew the dust cap .
saws,and some of the others you wont need to do this as the dust cap is held on by bolts/screws.and dose not screw in to the body or on to the seal head like kings.
so you can release the charge now, and take out the allen head screws.
ok, now we have the dust cap undone from the seal head.slide the dust cap up to the end of the rod.to get it out of your way.
RELEASE ANY "CHARGE" in the shock.I pull the shrader vavle out myself.
now you can see the seal head and the shaft seal
tie a rag around the shock body.this will help keep the mess down.
Now push the seal head down in to the shock body aprx one inch or so.To pull the snap ring/cir clip out.you can use a pair of small flat blade screw drivers or picks
now lay out a clean rag.on your table. to set the guts on the shock on after the next few steps.
snap ring out, now pull up on the rod/shaft, becarefull!, or you will end up with oil all over you're shoes,and a nice mess.
pull slow and steady.You may need to rock the shaft back and forth a bit to get the seal to break....slow and steady to avoid a mess.
right as the seal head comes out the piston will follow,and you're wear band,the wear band will fall off, so be ready to grab it.expcet for saws.Saws wear band will stay on the piston.how they are made.
wear band
seal head and outter seal. pistion spacer
working pistion and valve shims and wear band
Now we have the rod/shaft and seal head out of the shock body.And you wear band probably just fell on the floor if this is your first time around. No big deal.
Set the shaft, seal head and piston on to your clean rag. And pick up you're wear band and clean it off.
Now we get to work on the reservoir.
so dump the oil out of the shock in to a container.
Mark the ends on you're res. at to what end the "hose" end is in...this will help when it comes time to assemble the shocks......
push the end cap with the schrder valve in,about a inch to pull the cir clip/snap ring just like we did on the shock body.
On some shock you can use a pair of pliers to pull on the sharder(use the wrench flats to grab on to) valve,and the end cap will pop off.BECAREFULL you don't want to ruin your shrader valve.Or maybe even pull the threads out of the end cap!
IF the cap won't come out, you can use a blow gun and shop air to get the cap to "POP" off. BECAREFULL doing this.
Notice my blow gun has a rubber tip on it that makes a half ass seal.
I would not use a tire air chuck to do this.As you could end up with a nice "Shock end cap, cannon ball" Yall watch this here!!!.......
one other trick is to slide the end cap in 3-4 inches, and put a little oil to slick things up. and hit it with a few psi of air.
IF I have a stubborn cap,that wont pop with 20-30psi I will use a burlap sand bag(just something I happen to have around) as a "safety cage". leave a couple inches of slack between the bag and the reservoir body end,And have someone hold the bag,and hit it will air till it pops.
Also I will push the cap in a few inches like before to give the cap and running start if its really stubborn.
So the gas side of the end cap on the resvior is off,
now to work on the oil side.
IF you look in the res you will see a piston. That is the IFP piston that separates the oil and gas.
(here is what the IFP and wear band looks like,after it allready has been taken out.
now push the end cap,the hose end, cap down a inch, and pop the snap ring/cir clip.
I have a 1.5x3ft wooden dowel I use to tap the IFP up to push the end cap out of the resivor.and push the IFP on up and out.IF you don't have something like the dowel, you can push the end cap in a couple of inches and pull it out fast,to get the cap to come out.
When the IFP comes out the wear band will fall off,pick it up, and clean it off.
wear band end of the piston, go's on the gas side, and the oring gos toward the oil side.
What you should have when all apart,waiting to be scrubbed clean
More to come in the next day or so,after I chase down some parts.On this shock the IFP oil seal took a dump, and one of the 90o swivel fitting's was leaking and sucking in air.
In the next few days Ill put them back together and take some more pics of how to assemble them.
any questions, comments, words of advice, or what not feel free to ask. I'll try and get some better over all pics tomorrow too.
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