Suggestions to flush out clutch fluid

[Tedybear]

As the title suggests.

We have our 95' explorer. Manual 5 speed.

Traced the shifting issues mostly due to clutch fluid being contaminated.

What seems to been happening is a lot of water was introduced into the system. After everything got 'hot' the clutch was a bear to get into 1st, 2nd and reverse would actually grind gears. So much to the point we shut the truck off, put it into reverse, and started-backed up where needed.


I bleed out the clutch about 3-4 shots just like bleeding brakes. What came out was wicked HOT fluid with almost a milky look to it.

We made sure the master didn't run dry, but given the size of that slave, I'm pretty sure there's still a lot more yuck fluid left into the mix. I know water in a brake system can and will boil due to the temps. I feel that is what is happening due to the amount of HOT fluid that we bleed out of it. Sense we have bleed it out, it goes into 1st and 2nd a tad stiff..but it's manageable. Reverse? No issues anymore. You do need to mash the pedal completely to the floor, but it no longer grinds. Slips right into gear no problem.


Fairly sure there's a lot more that should be flushed out. Other then bleeding it several more times (and slowly getting all that crud out) Is there any quick way of doing this in one sitting?

Thanks!

S-

 

[RonD]

No, no other method when slave is in the truck.

You can often just open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed, keeping reservoir full of course.

But pumping pedal with a helper will be faster

 

[Tedybear]

Had a feeling. That fluid that came out of it looked like it sucked about 70% air/water into it. I'm not patient when it comes to bleeding brakes..or clutches it seems. But I can always run a hose into a jar, crack it open and let it drip it's way out. Sense the truck now shifts and it is manageable I want to ensure all the contaminated fluid (or as much as we can get) is out.

S-

 

[Denisefwd93]

Pressure , is how shops do it

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, just have to keep bleeding it.
Simply letting it dribble through probably isn't going to get all the old fluid out though, you have to keep pumping the pedal while opening/closing the bleeder to keep the new fluid stirring/mixing in with the old.

A year or so after I got my BII I flushed out the clutch hydraulics on it... I think I used up half of one of those big quart-size bottles of fluid before it finally started to clear up at the bleeder (fluid was real black & dirty, though no milkiness).

 

[Tedybear]

We just got back a little while ago. I bleed it out about 6 more depresses/unscrew...depress..unscrewed bleeder....

It's finally looking more like brake fluid, and the pedal height came up about 1/2". Not 100%, but it's working a lot better.

And of course, I go to take it off the jack stands-- And the old girl had a broken sway bar link?!? This truck is the gift that keeps on giving to the auto parts store...

On the flip side. Noted when I drove it home and went to park it- The front tires now have a heck of a scrubbing wobble when at very low speeds and trying to park into our spaces. I figure that was likely the sway bar link--Sense it's now 100%, it's doing it's thing with the tires on tight corners when one side starts to attempt to lift up. It's shoving itself back 'down' and creating a scrubbing action. I checked the suspension, everything steering related it nice and tight. (Except the rubber boots on the rack, those are torn. That's on my list-The P/O changed the rack and pinion and did a lousy job at it. (no leaks at the rack seals yet.)

S-